Question about 1995 Nissan Maxima

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My nissan maxima stalls

I have a nissan maxima 95 mdel,it stalls some time when i slows down,sometime at idle when this happens it will be difficult to start the engine again,i changed fuel pump,fuel filer yet problem is not soleved

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  • Anonymous Jul 20, 2008

    My Maxima can, but not always, be hard to start and will often stall at traffic lights. It has also developed a "shuttering" or "miss" which happens occassionaly for a few seconds, but not on a regular basis, when driving at any speed.

  • Anonymous Jul 20, 2008

    My Maxima can be be hard to start and idles rough for a few seconds once started. It will also often stall when I stop at a traffic light or in slow city driving. Finally, it "misses" or "shutters" at any speed. It does none of these things on a regular basis.

  • Anonymous Aug 02, 2008

    My 1995 Maxima SE has almost 300,000 miles on it and is occasionaly hard to start. The starter engages properly and the engine "turns over" normally but the vehicle sputters as if it is flooded. Once started it runs rought for a few seconds but then corrects itself. Also, it will occasionaly stall at slow speeds and in particular while sitting at a stop light. Finally, it will occasionaly "miss" or "shutter" while driving at any speed.

  • Andrstratt Aug 08, 2008

    when you are driving the car starts missing like it wants to stop also jerks and vibrates... Please help

  • Sheri Buse Aug 10, 2008

    I could have written the above posts--my 95 Maxima with 203K miles is doing exactly as the others have stated.  We cleaned the MAF sensor and there's no change.  We would love some help diagnosing this problem!


  • kchio Aug 12, 2008

    My car (Maxima 1995) presents the same conditions of failure just like the other down comments, today I carry it to the mechanic workshop and they told me that is the sensor of temperature, tomorrow is going to deliver it, if the car functions well I'll write again so that you do the same thing, but if someone knows the solution please tell me, I am desperate because I really don't know if that will be the solution. Regards Rocio

  • kchio Aug 19, 2008

    At this moment, I'm in the same situation my car still in the workshop, we are planning to change the crankshaft sensors (2) and the camshaft sensor, because right now the car doesn't start, I try to find a solution if I found it I let you know.

  • fisher-adam Aug 21, 2008

    I had the same problem. I found that the o2 sensor connector was broken and VERY unpredictable. At the slightest touch the Idle would drop significantly then would shut off. I changed the connector to a new one and now there is NO VOLTAGE going to the fuel injectors. All the fuses are still good so I'm not sure what happened. I plan to check out the wiring to make sure that the ground side is still capable of holding connection. But thats all that I got. Any solutions???

  • Anonymous Sep 04, 2008

    It sounds like a Mass Air Flow. Clean is not the solution. It must be replaced to correct the problem.

    I have the same problem....I have tried everything mention above. It boiled to the MAF. Yes, I know it is expensive part to replace.




  • umebese84 Sep 06, 2008

    my car stalls unpredictably especially when i am driving slowly or i have stopped accelerating. i ha ve changed the fuel pump and fuel filter aeveral times within two months but the fault is still there

  • jmagyoung Nov 28, 2008

    Hi all,
    I have the same problem and it started three weeks ago. First it just wouldn't start, we had the starter replaced and cleaned the transmission and it worked well for a week. It then stalled and I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and it died out after driving it for one hour- once it heats up it dies. So frustrating! The mechanic thinks its a electrical problem-not usre if its worth it. The car only has 70,000 miles.

  • csmith18 Apr 28, 2009

    What does the temperature sensor have to do with the stalling problem

  • csmith18 Apr 28, 2009

    95 Maxima has stalling problem anytime you take your foot off the accelerator. So many different probabilities, which is the safest bet. My mechanic can't even help. Does seem a little better on cold engine.

  • anthony finch Sep 16, 2013

    Guest My 1995 Maxima shut off after about 30 min of driving, it will start back up, but still shutt off until it cools for,3hrs.

  • George Bushinsky
    George Bushinsky May 22, 2014

    I had this problem and seem to have found the issue. I unpluged all the connections and sprayed them with carb cleaner.Cleaned out the throttle body as gummed up residue was leaking into the two small ports just before the butterfly. I sprayed the MAF with carb cleaner then rinsed the unit in water. I also discovered that the KNOCK Sensor was very brittle from the heat of the engine block located under the plenum adapter. It broke. Now I have a check engine light. I have a new after market one coming from ebay less than $10. Retails at auto zone for $109

  • sadiqua abdullah muhammad

    it could be you need throttle body cleaned or fuel injectors could need servicing or you will need to replace camshaft/crankshaft sensors or mass air flow sensor.

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Every answer here is wrong. This has been driving people nuts for 15 years. The problem is the engine wiring harness which has a bend going past the right strut tower, Nissan had a service bulletin on this in September of 1999, Google it, it's in pdf.

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

  • david_cambre Mar 23, 2011

    Does anyone have the SB number for a reference???
    JUST CURIOUS. I have purchased a new MAS, IACV, PLugs and EGR valve to do some maintenace over the weekend. As for me...the care ran just great until a few weeks ago. Im not sure what was the problem but I cleaned the EGR port tube of sall of the carbon. Still havng the problem. If this was a problem from the dealer..was it a recall issue???
    I plan to strip it down, replace vac tubes, PCV, coolant temp sensor, clean throttle body, intake manifold etc.

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My 1995 Maxima does the same thing everybody discribed: stall at low speed or at stop or traffic light, rough start... The car is running normally then the RPM drops, goes up, drops... when I push the accelerator, the car don't accelerate. 50% of the time, it's stall. Then I swear a lot ...

So, I just changed my fuel filter, but I won't go for a new fuel pomp if it didn't work for the others.

Please help me!!

Charles

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

  • George Bushinsky
    George Bushinsky May 22, 2014

    Engine going up and down is called Hunting and it may just well be the fuel pump or a leaky line that causes this. You can have a fuel pressure check done which may tell you if this is the problem

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I just bought a 1996 Maxima with 115K miles on it. The car started experiencing problems after I bought it and I thought I was stuck with a lemon. However, I am lucky enough to have a good friend who happens to be a mechanic. The car would stall at times at a red light and it wouldn't always start up right away. It would also stall in park. I could prevent it by feeding it more gas. The car also had some problems on the freeway, it would have a jerky motion once in a while. I also smelled it running rich when it was jerky and stalling. I thought I got a lemon and everywhere I read on the internet about it, it said idle air control valve. My friend took a look at it, told me the IACV was just replaced and after some hours luckily found the problem. The electrical connection to the air mass flow meter was bad. He found if you jiggled it the engine would stall. He said the connection, which was a crimp, wasn't doing its job, and he decided to solder it. Ever since then, the car has run like new!!!!

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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For those of u who are stalling at lights and have a bit of rough running at slow speeds I would change the (Idle Air Control Valve).Slow engine speed,stalling,and rough running were the simptoms that I had.

Posted on Aug 15, 2008

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I have the same problem did anyone figure out what it is its so anoying

Posted on Aug 06, 2008

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I had the same problem and changed the coolant temperature sensor and the problem over.

Posted on Nov 05, 2008

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Had the same problem! After changing a lot of things that didn't work, the diagnostic code indicated a faulty MAF sensor. Used MAF spray (CRC) from NAPA, but it didn't work. Bought a 'new" MAF on Ebay ($100), didn't work. Ordered from another ebay supplier, same thing. Dealer wanted $575, my auto part store could get me a BOSCH replacement for $360. Met a Nissan mechanic who sold me a used one for $50. This put an end to 3 months of stalling and stumbling!!!!!

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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I have a 1987 Nissan Maxima SE. There was a recall on
this model for a fuel injector harness problem.
The harness was replaced at no expense.
I've heard this is a problem in this model and later versions and it seems all the symptoms described above apply.

Posted on Sep 02, 2011

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My 99 Maxima not only stalls in idle or when I slow down and apply brakes, but it also tends to stall or pulls back while I'm driving at over 70 mph. It is definitely an electrical or electronic fault because it is intermittent, comes suddenly and disappears for hours or days sometimes. The Nissan Dealer has no clue, they gave me an estimate of $8000 (the car is worth less than 1/4 of that amount) which includes almost replacing everything but the ECU, and they didn't give any guarantees that my problem would be solved!!!!

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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Hi all i got nissan maxima 1995 and has the same problem..i figuried it out last week. its a battery problem. i've also noticied that when the car is in P and when i close the windows it stalls, the engine goes off. i tried it couple of times. i put my car in P, then i tried closing my window. when i close it the car tried to shake and when i remove its fine. i tried couple of times. the result is same. so ppl its a battery problem. have your battery replaced..

Posted on Aug 16, 2010

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I had the same problem for years

Replace your COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
Look for this part...
$ 23.99 at Autozone . Part #. SU4072

Posted on May 10, 2011

  • Ltmjr111 May 10, 2011

    When the sensor is bad the auxillary fans turn on the moment you start the car in the morning even if the engine is cold...

    When engine is running, the malfunctioning sensor tells the ECU the car is overheatng and shuts off the engine.

    After 5 mins the car will start again as if nothing happened.

    For those who like to work on your car yourself:

    See youtube video " checking/replacing ECTS 4th gen Maxima"

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My 95 nissan maxima was starting before i got my fuel injectors changed now the car wont start at all an i dont know the problem anybody knows y??

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

  • stein1341 Aug 17, 2010

    wrong injectors they have to be the same color code as the old ones.

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I have a 95 maxima and it shuts off randomly. We took it to several mechanics and they said nothing that helped. We are still having problems and i think it coolant temperature sensor. The car's rpm goes up and down then finally dies. Can someone help me out further

Posted on Jul 09, 2012

I had the same problem with my 95 maxima. I took it to a mechanic and he did an induction cleaning (I think that's what he called it - said something about the throttle body being really dirty or something like that) and also replaced the mass air flow. I just got it back yesterday and it works mostly all right. There is still a slight shudder when I am at a stop, though, similar to how it was right before I replaced the alternator last year. So, maybe you all can look into that sort of problem if you are having the same problems I was having (while driving, theh RPMs would randomly drop and jump, and the car would shut off and be difficult to start again for about 5 minutes).

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

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  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Stalls out when braking quickly, worse with going down hill

Assuming that the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, it looks like the torque converter lock-up system doesn't release as fast as it should, so if you brake hard, the converter is still locked up and your wheel brakes stall your engine (just like pressing ******* the brakes with the clutch pedal released on a manual transmission vehicle). Normally, when you brake hard, the lock-up should release and prevent the stall from happening. Might be a bad torque converter, or a bad lock up solenoid in the transmission... Before jumping to anything else, i'd try checking the fluid level in the transmission and an oil/filter change in the transmission. Lots of times one or the other can cure the problem.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: fuel problem

I had the same problem with my 99 Subaru Forester and it was caused by oil leaking and getting into the spark plugs. We only needed to remove & clean one of the plugs and then we were running smoothly again. Very well could not be what your problem is but it's worth a shot mentioning.

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

Lloyd Six
  • 560 Answers

SOURCE: 95 Nissan Maxima with fuel injection issue.

Could be battery, starter or coolant sensor.

It is hard to understand / get across engine noises with words so difficult to diagnose over the net but try to push start the car and let me know if it starts ok with a push. Also, maybe try a jump start, preferably using a circuit protector if you have one.
Let me know results of the above.

Lloyd

Posted on Dec 05, 2009

Testimonial: "Very good results. Diagnosed the issue with 2 questions."

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