Engine revs normal until it reaches working temperature. when reach working temp. engine performance is a bit poor and it can’t reach max revs. it start to cut on 5400rpm in every gear, no matter how I accelerate, slow or full throttle at the moment. it goes normal to 5400rpm than starts to cut acceleration. I change sparks and I clean injectors. pls, hellp :(
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Re: 318ti M44 acceleration problem
Have someone handy to press the gas pedal for you after the engine has warmed up well; best if driven.
While you listen at the exhaust pipe, have your helper increase the revs slowly and note whether the exhaust note changes to a hiss, instead of the sound of an engine firing.
You may have a decayed catalytic convertor and when they come apart inside, they can clog mufflers and resonators (the second, smaller muffler).
I've had this happen on more than one car and when it happened on a Fiat Strada years ago, since the routing of the system was fairly straight and made of heavier gauge stainless steel, I fired two shots with a .357 magnum into the tailpipe.
Never had another problem with it.
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No one ever said new means good. Try another thermostat. Make sure it is the recommended temp for the vehicle. I would spend the extra money to buy a dealer thermostat. What controls temp is restriction of flow thru the system until a set temperature is reached and the thermostat opens. Has to be a thermostat.
fan will not come on until pre determined temp has been reached
will come on with a/c that is normal to lower condensor freon pressure
you do not state a overheating problem is the temp gauge going way up
or stays normal
It could be a plugged heater core or heater control problem. I assume the blower is working, but the air is cold. The first thing to check is the coolant level, make sure there is coolant in the resivoir. Next see if the temerature gauge reaches the normal operating temperature range. If the gauge reads cold most of the time, it would tell you that the thermsotat is faulty and not allowing the engine to reach full operating temperature. If your car doesn't have a temp gauge, the blue cold engine light might stay on for an extended period of time. The thermostat is supposed to not allow coolant flow in the radiator until the engine reaches operating temperature. If you drive the car for a couple of minutes, from cold start, the radiator or upper hose should be cool until the engine reaches operating temp.
You probably need to bleed the cooling system properly.
Open the cooling system bleeder screws.
Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture until coolant runs freely out of bleeder screws. Close the cooling system bleeder screws Install the coolant pressure cap Start the engine. Run the engine at 2,000 - 2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. (midway on gauge) Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes. Shut the engine off. Allow the engine to completely cool. Top off the coolant as necessary.
Run engine again at 2000 - 2500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Allow engine to idle until cooling fans come on. It should come on with the gauge about 3/4 of the way to red. - if it gets to where is touches the red, shut down immediately.
When the fan comes on, put your hand behind the fan and observe the temperature of the air coming from the fan. It should feel hot. If it is blowing cold air, the coolant is not circulating through the radiator like it should. This could be caused by lots of things including an improper/defective thermostat, corroded water pump impeller, or a blown head gasket.
The cooling fans on this vehicle won't come on unless the a/c is on or until the engine coolant temperature reaches about 220 degrees. Once the coolant has reached this temperature the fans will come and and run until the engine cools down to about 210 degrees and they will then turn off until the temperature climbs up again. The fans usually aren't on at all at highway speeds because enough air is being forced through the radiator to keep everything cool. The true test of cooling fan operation is to allow the car to idle in park with both the a/c and defrost turned off and let it run until the fans come on. When The temp gauge reaches about 3/4 of the way up, give or take a bit, the fans should come on. Keep an eye on the gauge so the engine doesn't overheat just in case there really is a fan control problem but I'd say you'll most likely find that the fans are working properly since they do come on for the a/c. Hope this helps!
Hi Code P 0217 does point to the thermostat but it also points to the wiring, cooling system, and the temperature sensor, to check the thermostat start engine then once the temperature gauge in the car reaches normal the thermostat should open and the top hose that goes into the radiator will warm up quickly as the thermostat opens, if the thermostat is stuck in it's open position the top hose will start warming up before the engine reaches it's working temperature, hopefully i have explained it clearly,
You will not see any vacuum from the egr solenoid until the engine has reached normal operating temperature and certain other driving conditions have been reached (like throttle position and road speed).
If the engine runs rough when warmed up, check the CTS (coolant Temp sensor) when hot and cold and if no fault shows there, start checking input sensors for engine and cam position, engine timing, RPM etc.
If the EGR valve was leaking, it is only adding air to the exhaust stream and usually, manually opening the valve and blowing out the seat with compressed air should fix the issue.
This can also be an issue with clogged injectors. When the engine is cold, fuel enrichment supplies more then normal fuel amounts to encourage even running. When the engine warms up (normal operating temperature), fuel enrichment mode is turned off. If your injectors are clogged (even if only slightly) fuel starvation will cause rough running. Fuel enrichment overcomes the starvation of clogged injectors. Try adding a propriety injector cleaner to your fuel tank and watch for an improvement. If you do see an improvement, have your injectors cleaned and tested professionally. If you locate any other issues with engine sensors, replace them and ensure the new components are adjusted correctly if required..
1) Is the service engine soon light ever on when engine is running?
2) Per your description I would look at the ECT sending unit. It sends coolant temperature information the the Engine Control Module for proper fuel delivery for cold engine start. It may have lost its calibration.
Let me know.