Question about 1985 Volkswagen Jetta

Open Question

1985 jetta diesel clutch replacement

Im trying to replace my clutch but im having difficulty getting the clip back on the pressure plate.........does any one have a diagram and replacement instructions.......thank you in advance....

Posted by on

6 Suggested Answers

leethedeuce
  • 4472 Answers

SOURCE: clutch kit mazda drifter 2.5 diesel turbo d/cab 4 x 4 model 2002

http://www.clutchcityonline.com/mazda_b2500.htm
There you go, just click on your year and the clutch kit. You can always call your local auto store and ask them to price it for you.
Thanks,
Lee

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

threecs3
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: cost to replace clutch in 2000 VW Jetta

from what is was told locally is that it would be around $800 - $1000 and can take just around a full day to do. it is not a quick job, so labor costs can be high and the price of parts play a big factor in it just because it is a vw.

Posted on Jul 24, 2008

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: 1985 jetta diesel timing

The procedure is given in the Hayes manual. You need to turn the cam shaft gear so that the front valves (two valves close to the gear point up) are close and the notch on the cam shaft other end is horizonal (side facing the battery). You need to bring the flywheel (in bellhousing) to top dead center (you will see a notch on flywheel and a fixed pointer on the bellhousing. The notch should be in line with the ponter. After that, you need to bring the injection pump at certain pisition. Then you can mount the belt. It is not a difficult process, I have been doing it, but you need certain tools that will make it easy, such as cam lock position tool, injection pump lock pin, gear remover, etc.

Posted on Oct 17, 2008

  • 261 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch slip problem when gears are changed after 4000 rpm

you have 20k miles after the clutch has been changed, now are you used to drving clutch, secondly is it hydraulic or cable controled clutc?

if you are used to drving clutch sys probable cause is defective pressure plate or the throwout bearing is not fully releasing in other words the clutch is partialy applied all the time because of the re;ease bearing not fully releasing!!

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • 84 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace a coolant temp sensor on a 2001 vw jetta 2.0

Yes it is that easy. It should be a 4 pin connector located on the transmission side of the engine head in a plastic flange. Best is to wait for the engine to be cold. Unscew the radiator cap to relieve pressure but screw it right back on. On the 2.0L engines when you unclip the coolant sensor little or not coolant loss will happen if you do this. Just unplug it, pull out the clip, pull out the sensor, and the seal which sometimes stays stuck. Install the new sensor with a new seal lubricated with some coolant, make sure it's well seated and reinstall the clip. The sensor is well seated if the clip fits right over the top, just make sure both sides clipped into position. Replug it fill the coolant with VW original coolant mixed 50-50 with water if needed and done. If you have a fault you might need a scanner to erase the check engine or fault in the cluster.

What's the reason for changing it? Eratic temperature readings?

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

SOURCE: 91 vw jetta 1.6l diesel belts

These engines are identified as an interference engine and on no account must the crank shaft and cam shaft be moved with the timing belt removed. You no not need to remove the water pump. You need to remove the water pump pulley only (not the water pump). I trust this helps.

Regards

Ray

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

The Clutch disc and Release Bearing for the TD4-Freelander, were replaced recently. The Pressure Plate was still in a good condition.Gears difficult to engage.Please advise.Tks.John.


Most likely still has air in hydraulic clutch slave system. Many transmisions will have dificulty shifting if clutch doesn't full disengage. If air is in system it won't allow full disengage thus difficulty in shifting even possible grinding gears

Sep 17, 2016 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

Tip

Mitsubishi pajero clutch removal



I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd

I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.


note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.


Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft.
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers

3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip

4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck

on Apr 03, 2010 | Mitsubishi Montero Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

GEARBOX 1995 USUZU MU 3.1 DIESEL


If the clutch is not disengaging when you put your foot on the clutch ( if the system has been bled correctly or cable fitted correctly ) then the problem is that the clutch plate is in the wrong way round and the clutch hub with the springs is hitting on the flywheel bolts

Jan 10, 2014 | Isuzu Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ok I have a 1990 jetta the original tranny has lost 5th gear so I have got a tranny from the wreckers and installed a new friction disk. When I install the tranny with it bolted to the engine and the...


did you change your pressure plate some times pressure plate has installation clips ,that should be removed once plate is bolted up make sure also bell housings the same size

Feb 25, 2011 | 1990 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Engine speed increases with no increase to vehicle speed


If your car has a manual gear box thn the clutch plate may need replacing, if need be better to replace the pro-kit i.e clutch pressure plate , clutch plate and the relaese bearing.

Sep 21, 2010 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Peugeot 206 NEW clutch pressure and clutch plates were replaced including the bearing. Clutch is making a rattling noise but not when pedal is down. Having difficulty getting into 1st and 2nd gears....


its likley to be the clutch center plate cush springs are loos and the center plate is warped so wnen you try to get into gear the clutch is draging the gear box around,,,bipping the clutch stops the clutch spinning so no noise! all you can do is strip the lot down again and fine the fault and fix it

Feb 08, 2010 | 1987 Peugeot Liberte

1 Answer

1985 VW Jetta Diesel, problem with lights. The


check head lights and tail lights relay.replace fan relay.check ac compressor make sure its getting power. if all good have ac check to make sure it have the right amount refrigerate in system.

May 16, 2009 | 1985 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

I need to tear down my transmission in a 1988 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24 2.8L i am fixing the clutch and i need diagrams on how to take it apart and put it back together


Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Regards,


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3



0900c1528003be16.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  3. For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.




0900c1528003be17.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles
  1. Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  2. Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
  3. Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
  4. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
  5. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.




0900c1528003be18.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts
To install:
  1. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
  2. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
  3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
    1. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
    2. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
    3. Remove the clutch alignment tool.

  4. Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
  5. Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.



WARNING When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.

  1. For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.


ADJUSTMENTS


All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:
  1. Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
  2. Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.

On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.

May 04, 2009 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mitsubishi pajero 1992 turbo diesel 4cyl - clutch disk replacement


This job isn't one for the faint hearted - yes you do need some pretty special tools the main one being a transmission jack - its pretty heavy work otherwise a socket set and some basic knowledge.
but here's is a posting I recently made:
I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd
I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's etc. what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.


note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.


Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft .
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers

3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip

4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck

Aug 10, 2008 | Mitsubishi Passenger Cars & Trucks

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

128 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Volkswagen Experts

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

21927 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

60541 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

6811 Answers

Are you a Volkswagen Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...