Question about 2007 Ford F-450 Lariat

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1980 ford f700 electric brake pump operates when pedal is depressed while vehicle is running and driving

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  • Rvdoctor Oct 21, 2008

    The electric motor for the hydrolic brakes is running all the time & the oil resivuar will push out oil the bypass hose after being used awhile. I Need to know how the brake system actually operates throughout. How the hydrolic system operates and where electric motor comes into play with the system.

    oh and if anyone has an anwser to my problem or any info please contact me with my e-mail:

    thanks, Bill kohlmeyer

  • Anonymous Apr 15, 2009

    i have a 1987 ford f700 that has a hard brake paddle can someone help



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Check you aux hydurlic pump, ford will have one pump for the powersteering and one on the right hand side for the brake

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Donnie Wilson
    Donnie Wilson Aug 12, 2009

    Everybody wants to make things complecated why I do not know?If your electric is working, just check the hyd pump,most people thinks it ties in with the powersteerig pump it DOES not,It will have it own pump,IF it is full of fluid check the preasure,IT a simple system ,The elec pump will not be on if hydo is working,Please do youself a favor and check this,some of the best HAS miss THIS

  • Donnie Wilson
    Donnie Wilson Aug 26, 2009

    I have just another one in my shop,today and it was the same thing I have stated,no hdy preasure from the pump it was low fill and found leak and repaired line,elect was just trying to do its job because of no hyd preasure from the pump,I have had 5 of these this year and 3 the ford dealer could not figure out,

  • Todd Bleything Mar 30, 2013

    need help with F700 brakes locking up on rear passenger side what can you tell me?


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If the vehicle is equipped with a separate hydro boost pump, it could be going bad. If the pump isn't supplying the proper pressure to the hydro booster then the electric motor will continue to run. there is also a relay beneath the hydro boost/master cylinder assembly that could be sticking. The motor is there to supply braking assist pressure when the engine powered pump is not running.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008


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1 Answer

2002 ford ranger - Where is the 4x4 actuator located

On the transfer case
Transfer Case - Electronic Shift
The four-wheel drive electronic shift-on-the-fly feature electrically shifts the vehicle transfer case between 2WD, 4WD HIGH, and 4WD LOW. The system mode is selected by the operator through the mode select switch (MSS) on the instrument panel. The operator is informed which mode the system is in by two instrument cluster indicators: one for 4WD HIGH which appears as 4WD, and one for 4WD LOW, which appears as 4WD LOW. Shifts into 4WD HIGH can be made at any speed. When shifting into 4WD HIGH with the vehicle stationary, tooth blockage may occur preventing shift completion. When the vehicle is driven above 8 km/h (5 mph) the shift will complete. When shifting in or out of 4WD LOW, the four-wheel drive (4WD) control module requires that the vehicle speed be less than 5 km/h (3 mph), the brake pedal be applied, and the transmission be in NEUTRAL (automatic transmission) or the clutch pedal be depressed (manual transmission).
The gearmotor encoder assembly is mounted externally on the transfer case. It drives a rotary cam which moves the mode fork and range fork within the transfer case between the 4WD HIGH, 4WD LOW, and 2WD range positions.
The four-wheel drive (4WD) control module controls the gearmotor encoder assembly that shifts between 4WD HIGH, 4WD LOW, and 2WD modes.

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2 Answers

Can't shift out of park, no brake lights

This is a problem with the brake sensor lockout. Most likely it is out of place or broken and shorting. It is on the brake pedal lever.

Dec 09, 2015 | 2002 Ford Escape

1 Answer

How to change clutch slave cylinder 2004 ford transit

Locate the cylinder on the gearbox bell housing. Clamp the flexible fluid feed hose to the slave cylinder, reasonably close to the cylinder. Disconnect the feed pipe to the cylinder, remove the cylinder's location bolts, and remove cylinder. Reverse process for reinstallation.
Once installed, open up the cylinder's bleed nipple, attach rubber hose (preferably clear type) and feed into a clear bottle. Open the master cylinder's reservoir cap and brim with clean fluid (usually brake fluid DOT 4 will be fine, unless stated otherwise on the cap)
Now it's easier if you have help pumping the clutch pedal as you will have to depress the pedal and clamp the bleed nipple, raise the pedal. Depress the pedal and open the nipple. Close the nipple and release the pedal. Keep repeating this procedure whilst continually topping up the reservoir and until the fluid coming out of the bleed nipple is clean and free from any air bubbles.
On the final depression of the pedal, lock the bleed nipple, release the pedal and then pump it a few times and judge the feel and travel of the pedal.
If the pedal is still only close to the floor when operating the clutch, then you likely still have some air in the system and should repeat the above steps.
If adequate pressure is available and the clutch operates well, then your job is done.

Be aware that brake fluid eats into paint and many types of plastics over time, so once you are done, then rinse any areas with water only, which came into contact with any spilled fluid.

Tada! You've finished! Road test the vehicle to be sure of a good successful job. Recheck the fluid level after a few hours driving to make sure you haven't any leaks and aren't loosing fluid.

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2 Answers

I have a 2001 ford taurus and every time i push the brake pedal my brakes dont brake right and sounds like air is leaking

Is the brake pedal getting harder to depress? Also have you had any work done on the vehicle immediately prior to this problem? If the pedal is getting harder to depress it could be a failing power brake booster if your car has one. Some ABS systems are different than others

Feb 17, 2011 | 2001 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

Can't shift gears out of P park position into D drive

could be brake light switch faulty
find it area of brake pedal

Feb 07, 2011 | 2001 Ford Escort ZX2

1 Answer

96 F250 can't shift out of park

NOTE: Your vehicle is equipped with a

brake-shift interlock feature. This

feature prevents you from shifting

from P (Park) unless you have the

brake pedal depressed. (The ignition

must be in the ON position.) If you

cannot shift from P (Park) with the

brake pedal depressed:

1. Apply the parking brake.

2. Remove the key.

3. Insert the key and rotate one position
clockwise (ignition in the OFF position).

4. Apply the brake pedal and shift to N

(Neutral). (If the vehicle is shifted to P

(Park), you must repeat the previous steps.)

5. Start the vehicle.

If you need to shift out of P (Park) by using the

alternate procedure described above, it is

possible that a fuse has blown and that your

brakelamps may also not be functional.




check fuse 13 based on the attached diagram.

If this fuse is bad replace it. If it is not bad, blows again, or continues to be stuck in park then you need a new brake interlock switch that can be found on the brake pedal up underneath the dash.mustang_guru_2.jpg

Jan 12, 2011 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2001 Ford F-350 V-10 cruise control stopped working

Speed Control The speed control system consists of the following components:
  • anti-lock brake control module
  • brake pedal position (BPP) switch
  • clutch pedal position (CPP) switch or jumper
  • deactivator switch
  • speed control actuator switches
  • speed control servo
  • speed control actuator cable
  • speed control indicator
  • brush assembly (Motorhome vehicles only)
  • control and spring brush assembly (Motorhome vehicles only)
  • Principles of Operation
    The speed control system is designed to maintain vehicle speed above 40 km/h (25 mph). After the ON switch is depressed, depressing the SET/ACCEL or COAST switch will activate the speed control servo. To increase a set speed, either depress and hold for continuous acceleration, or momentarily tap the SET/ACCEL switch for 1.6 km/h (1 mph) acceleration increments. To decrease a set speed, depress and hold the COAST switch until the target speed is reached, or momentarily tap the COAST switch for 1.6 km/h (1 mph) deceleration increments. When the speed control system has been disabled by tapping the brake pedal, the RESUME switch can be depressed and the vehicle will return to the original set speed if the vehicle is traveling over 40 km/h (25 mph) and the OFF switch has not been depressed.
    NOTE: The deactivator switch is provided as an additional safety feature. Normally, when the brake pedal is depressed, an electrical signal from the brake lamp circuit to the speed control servo will deactivate the system. Under increased brake pedal effort, the deactivator switch will open and remove power to the speed control servo, releasing the throttle independently of the speed control servo.
    NOTE: The air bag sliding contact provides the electrical interface between the steering column wiring and the speed control actuator switches in the steering wheel.
    The inputs to the speed control servo are:
    • vehicle speed signal
    • speed control actuator switches
    • brake pedal position (BPP) switch
    • clutch pedal position (CPP) switch (if equipped)
    • deactivator switch
    The outputs of the speed control servo are:
    • speed control indicator (Excursion and Super Duty)
    • speed control cable controlling the throttle position
    Inspection and Verification
    NOTE: If any concerns are noted with the speedometer or horn, address those concerns by referring to their associated sections before continuing speed control diagnosis.
    NOTE: When in speed control mode, initial depression of the clutch pedal may cause a normal momentary increase of engine rpm.
    NOTE: If the vehicle is a diesel, refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.
    1. Verify the customer concern by operating the speed control system.
    1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage.

    Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
    • Speed control cable
    • Speed control cable not attached to throttle
    • Central junction box (CJB) Fuse:
      • 6 (15A) (Excursion)
      • 8 (10A) (Motorhome)
      • 13 (20A) (Excursion, Super Duty)
      • 15 (5A) (Super Duty, Excursion)
      • 28 (10A) (Super Duty, Motorhome)
    • Speed control actuator switches
    • Brake pedal position (BPP) switch
    • Clutch pedal position (CPP) switch (if equipped)
    • Deactivator switch
    • Speed control servo
    • Wiring
    • Loose, corroded, or dirty connections
    • Bulb (Excursion and Super Duty)

    1. If the fault is not visually evident, go to the Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion or Super Duty (Excursion, Super Duty), or verify the symptom and proceed to the Symptom Chart (Motorhome).
    2. Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion, Super Duty
      WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
      1. Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
      1. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
        The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
      1. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
        If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
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      • 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
      • 4 Flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
      1. Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
      1. Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

Dec 28, 2017 | 2001 Ford Escape

3 Answers

Abs brakes chirping noise, when pedal depressed,

worn out brake pads and slightly warped rotors. Most brake pads have small steel tabs that touch the rotor at a 90 degree angle when it is time for replacement. if you keep driving on the worn pads, it will stop chirping but that just means the tabs (also called wear indicators) have broken off and repair is about to get very pricey.

Feb 28, 2010 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero

1 Answer

1993 Ford AWD Aerostar Van. When the engine is

Sounds like the front calipers are not fully retracting properly. Check the front caliper operation while a friend pumps the brake pedal, the rubber lines could also be cracked and allowing air into the lines. Check brake fluid level.

Aug 29, 2009 | 1993 Ford Aerostar Extended

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