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The power wire from the sending unit runs to the gauge. Since it is showing 3/4 all the time. It is a break in the wire or really high resistance. I would check resistance of the ground wire first. If it is good(less than 5.0 ohms), I would replace the power wire from the pump to the gauge. I assume the gauge goes to empty with the key off. If not the gauge is bad.
I had a 1997 s10 4*4 with the 2.8 v6.
mine do that I had to pull the gas tank replace fuel filter plus had to take undo the line from the intake and blow air thru it. Make sure all u're filter are replaced and y u have the tank down replace the fuel pump. I hope this helps u
Have you checked for continuity from the fuel pump fuse to the pump do this with the ignition off, you may have a break in the live cable, or take a voltmeter and check voltage at the pump.
Are some of those fuses under the hood in the power Distribution box? If not test all of them they would feed the inside box. Your public library should have an acount With Chiltons where you can pull up and print out your wirring diagram if you need to. You do know you can test both sides of your fuses from the top with a test light w/ them in place in the box dont you.
the dash sound's like a fuse, check the fuse box under the hood and in the door jamb on the side of the dash, also check your fuel filter and fuel pump, im betting on the pump because i have a 2001 chevy blazer that has had two replaced and it has 233000km on it!
fuse in the fuse box. also the power to prime the pump starts at the oil pressure switch. check that out too. then the relay for the pump in that order
Problem number one. The circuit that powers up your data link connector (where you plug the code reader into) is the cigarette lighter fuse. Check that fuse to make sure it is not blown. Second problem: You more than likely need to replace your instrument panel cluster.
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