After driving 1/2 mile upon start up, display reads " low oil pressure-stop engine!" Mechanic replaced oil pressure sender switch, problem still persists. Car "shuts down" when this happens. One time, the display said " service braking system" instead of low oil pressure, but my car still went into "shut down" mode. It does not stall, but I can't accelerate and need to pull off the road, shut the engine off, then on again. It works fine after that. I have been letting the car warm up for afew minutes before driving to get thetempto normal, but should not have to do this. Also, the "service emmisions system" light comes on sporadically, sometimes for a couple of days, then goes out. Don't know if this is related to the oil pressure thing. I have 45,000miles on the car. The Buick dealership service dept. has no suggestions. They have never heard of this happening before.
MY 2002 RAINIER DOES THE SAME THING I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT IS THE THROTTLE BODY. I NEED TO CLEAN IT OR REPLACE IT. I HAVE THE 4.2 AND YOU CAN GET ONE FOR $200 PLUS SHIPPING. THE THROTTLE BODY STARVES THE CAR FOR AIR CAUSING THE IDLE, AND SHUT DOWN PROBLEMS. I AM GOING TO TRY IT THIS WEEKEND.
I have a 2004 Rainier as well and she has had about every issue there is. I think these symptoms when I had it was a loose wire to the throttle pedal and then maybe had to replace it after it did it again. I can't remember exactly though as I've had to replace a lot of things and have had numerous issues. It's a love hate relationship though!
My 2004 Buick Rainier is saying no oil pressure, shut engine down...and then it shuts down. And it has been stalling...the rpm drops and rises while I drive it and when I come to a stop in drive it stalls now...I have to throw it into neutral and it will keep running when I stop...Please help!! It will fire up but just seems not getting the gas or something like that, my engine light is on as well and has been for the past year and this problem only just started 2 months ago.
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1. Oil Pressure Gauge Not Working
You will notice this happens when your oil pressure gauge is not reading, whether the engine is turned off, idle or running. Try to step on the gas to rev up the engine. If the oil pressure gauge still doesn't change its reading, your gauge is busted. It's best to replace it as soon as possible because you won't have any idea if your car is already overheating or not.
2. Oil Pressure Gauge Reading Too Low
When your engine is idle, the oil pressure gauge will have a low reading. When the engine starts running or when you're already cruising or on the freeway, your gauge's reading should have increased. If it stays on a low reading, then you now your oil pressure gauge is broken.
3. Oil Pressure Gauge Reading Too High
Another common oil pressure gauge problem is when your oil pressure gauge is reading too high when your engine is idle or when it's turned off. Rep
When engine is idling the oil pressure sign can come up and that is OK. However if you've noticed that gauge shows much lower oil pressure that a bad sign. Show it to knowledgeable mechanic (but don't be lured in the engine replacement; ask for a root cause - it may be oil receiver or oil pump). Also I hope there's no oil puddles under the car? What about oil level?
It could be -low oil level-faulty oil pressure sender unit -stuck over pressure relief valve in the oil pump-worn engine bearings The first step is to check the oil level, and if OK, have a mechanic take out the oil pressure sender and substitute an oil pressure gauge. Ask for a look at the reading as the engine is run then.
These gauges are cheap enough if you wish to do this yourself, and you can then install it on the dash somewhere.
Often if the engine bearings are that worn, the car will blow blue smoke and consume oil.
In the meantime keep the revs down as much as possible.
First, do not keep driving if the oil warning light is on or your oil pressure gauge has dropped. Stop the engine, let it sit for a few minutes, then check the oil level. Don't ignore it. An oil pressure warning light (or low gauge reading) means one of two things: either your engine has dangerously low oil pressure, or the oil pressure sending unit that triggers the warning light (or operates your gauge) has failed. I hope this helps.
Thank you for being very clear, most of the people on this site write very little or very poorly.
On that note, on to options. It's either (in my expert opinion) an internal engine problem, or your computer/spark plugs needs to be replaced.
Step 1: Get a tune up, (100 bucks) if already done, than I'm proud of you. Step 2: Go to a mechanic and shell out 50-80 bucks to get a specialized computer hooked up to your car to tell you any and all of the problems with your car. Step 3: get overcharged by said mechanic to fix it, or do it yourself and grow some chest hair.
Hope it helps.
(excuse the sarcasm, I'm bored at work solving random car problems)
While engine is running, open the cover where you add oil to engine and see if you see a good flow of oil, if good flow, could be as easy as replacing oil sending sensor. got to realize that if poor maintenance history your engine may not be building enough pressure at iddle to move your hydraulic operated valves, only when you rev it up it will pump enough to run smooth. if running engine too long, you may cause more damage to other engine components such as crankshaft and cam shaft bearings. if you can spare a few bucks, have a good mechanic check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. another cheap option is to replace oil pump. last resort if you love your truck as much as we do,replace engine or rebuild it. At 205,000 this is a normal symptom, other than timing chain problems, most engines don't make it that far. hope this helps!
There may be a loose wire or the gauge or sending unit may be going bad. The first thing I would do is to hook up a temporary oil pressure gauge, not using the old one at all. With this watch gauge while driving and see what readings you get. If the readings still jump around you have a pump that is getting weak and failing, If that is the case the pump should be replaced, but with high milage you may consider rebuilding the entire engine. If the readings stay normal start checking for a loose wire at gauge or sender. Then check sender, then gauge and replace as needed.
I have a 1999 dodge ram with a 5.9liter. Come to a stop and bam no pressure. Replaced sending unit twice. First after market, then mopar. Problem is still there. Replaced pump. Problem was still there. So I talked to tons of dodge mechanics, and this is the real problem. Who ever said that these engines are none for sludge is just reall really stupid. BOTTOM LINE ON THAT FACT. Sludge comes from neglect... Dodges oil pump makes 8-10 Psi at idle. Always mechanically test that no MATTER what. But the sending unit needs 12-14 psi to read it. So what happens is the engine warms up, and the oil thins. Then you come to a stop, and rpms are low, and your not producing enough psi for the sending unit to read it. So your truck is fine. But if the chime is getting to you. Install a high volume pump. I returned the stock one, and got the high volume pump. I will bet if you change your oil every 3,000 miles you will not see sludge at all. If your dodge has high miles replace valve cover gaskets, becauce the high volume pump may cause the gaskets to leak. Whoever said ther none for sludge just has no love for a dodge, or is a moron mechanic that is stuck in his ways. High volume pump is the fix $85.00 plus pan gasket. If you have a 4x4 you can do it yourself. Drop the starter. Remove torque converter cover. With a 13mm socket with a variety of extentions, and removing a dozen bolts. Do it yourselfer will complete it in 4 hours....