When i try to start my car, it seems there is an electrical issue. when the key is turned to on, the gauges peg and then return. when i turn the key to start, nothing happens, no clicking, nothing. i have tried wiggling the shift lever and the key while trying to start it and that has worked, but rarely. Help!
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
When you try to start it do the lights dim way low, have you been able to start it with a jump from another vehicle, unfortunately, chances are the starter needs to be replaced. How many miles does it have?
My truck does it too. Read a few articles about the problem and most talked about a Recall of the main starter harness. I looked at mine and there was Green corrosion on the Starter loom. I had just enough slack to solder a new end on it.
You may be able to get another wire loom with your Vin#. After I fixed mine, it never broke again. But my dash gauges still peg out and then work. Doesn't seem to bother anything. I put on a Starter relay and yours is the same age as mine. Try jumping the Starter relay to see if it is bad.
I just had a similar issue with my 1995 Buick century. My issue started out with the gage being almost pegged with the car off. When I turned the key to run it pegged the gage completely. I first called AutoZone and they told me it was either the temperature sensor, thermostat, or gage. I knew that my thermostat wasn’t bad because I replaced it a while back. I then checked my sensor; I unhooked the two pin connector of this sensor at the block and suspected the needle to drop to zero. This was not the case. I then checked my wires using a multimeter to verify that there was no short at my firewall. My wiring was fine. I then called a family mechanic and he instructed me that there is also a "temperature switch" that also is interconnected to the coolant temperature gage. I then found this switch which was threaded into the block near the firewall of my car. I unhooked the 2 pin connector and suspected that the gage would return to the neutral position. And sure enough it did!! This could have been a heck of a lot easier if AutoZone could have told me that my car has a "temperature switch". But non the less it was only a $15 fix! First try unhooking your sensors and switch to see if this is the problem, I would lastly suspect your gage to fail! Good Luck
Removed CD player for jammed CD. Reinstalled but car ignition and most electrical sytems won't operate although fuses appear OK. Don't know if it is related to the anti-theft system.When ignition is turned on, both tach and speedometer needles peg out and return to zero but no type of ignition
ok let me help you get started
this isnt going to be easy we need to do a bunch of testing.
you will need a 12 volt test light.
remove the negitive battery cable and connect one side of your test light to the battery negitive and the other side to the battery cable . and with the key off.. so now if you have a short some where the light should be lit. now what we have to do is start to pull fuses untill the light goes out. and when you find the fuse that is causing your short and drain your battery . then we have to look into the section of the wiring and components.
let me know what you find