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Front wheel drive cars have CV joints sounds like yours need replacing. Does it do it when you turn? Turn wheel all the way left an then right do you still hear it? If so joints are bad. May also be wheel bearing but my guess is CV joints
worn CV joints "click," but only upon turning. worn bearings "grind," with a faint metal-on-metal sound. So, squeaking in the front end is unlikely to be a CV joint or a bearing. Squeak could be almost any front suspension component, but here's the reason to stop guessing what it is and jack up the car, remove the two front tires and inspect the front suspension: it could be a bolt/nut that is loosening - and by catching it, and tightening it, you could save yourself the cost of replacing the missing hardware. Also, be aware that an inspecting mechanic (if your state or county requires a safety inspection (like Pennsylvania)) will inspect all components of your car's front suspension as a routine component of your car's safety inspection. Also:
1-----Inspect----- Coil Spring----- Broken or Weak Coil Springs. 2-----Inspect----- Sway Bar Bushing----- Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Stabilizer Bar Bushings. 3-----Inspect----- Steering Stabilizer Bracket----- Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket. 4-----Inspect-----lower ball joints-----Loose bolt/rubber bushing to lower control arm. 5-----Inspect-----Upper Ball Joints-----Loose bolt/missing rubber bushing. 6-----Inspect-----Connecting Rods-----(these are the rods that connect the lower control arm to the front of the frame) Check for loose nut (on the frame side), or loose bolts (on the control arm side).
Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger
tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a
CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30
and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the
center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety
tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe
placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break
the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car
and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point
must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two
jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack
stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out
the jack and move it out of the way.
Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the
hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with
the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew
the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV
joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub,
take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it
with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel
hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that
holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm.
Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and
sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a
length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud
from the spindle.
Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint
disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side
just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the
back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to
the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard
end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the
transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or
replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the
entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the
transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and
place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new
shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping
the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket.
Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and
loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by
re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and
leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud
positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry
bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel
hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut
tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into
the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking
bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car
from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.
Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.
Do yourself a favor and replace the whole cv shaft. Quicker, eaiser and not much money. First get the car in the air and remove the wheel. Then pop the lower ball joint. This is done by unbolting it from the knuckle and using a ball joint seperator fork and a hammer. Then remove the spindle nut on the end of the cv shaft. You push down on the lower A arm pulling the ball joint out of the knuckle and push the cv shaft out of the hub. Once these are dislogged, you can movel the strut and hub out of the way and pull the cv shalt out of the trans axle. Push the new one in and reverse what you did.
you will need to remove all the brake hardware and remove the strut and then purchase or rent a Ball joint press or remove the lower control arm and have a machine shop press the joint out. U will need a front end alignment after this is done.
You may have to have half inch air impact gun to remove the spindle nut (in the center of the rotor). I'd make that the first task to undertake because your next task will be to remove lower ball joint. After you get that spindle nut loose, take a hammer, 32 oz. preferrably and whack area directly behind lower ball joint to coerce it in to loosening up. Then take a decent pry bar and lift up on the whole spindle assembly and if it don't release, go whack the front side in front of lower ball joint. After you get it to come free from lower A arm, take a pry bar and insert it in between the CV joint and transmission housing. Do not put a lot of pressure that will over stress the transmission case, just vigorously enough to get the CV joint to pop out of the circlips that holds it into transmission. Make sure when you put new one in that CV joint reseats all the way and reverse procedure is the same.