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Re: How do I remove and replace driver side drive shaft
The Rubber must have seperated, I assume you have a shaft with 3 Ball bearings on it, covered in grease? If so the part that actually goes into the transmisson is held in by an internal clip. If it is auto its slightly harder to remove that a stick one. At anyrate you'll need a bar and a hammer. You need to shock the piece out of there. It will come, even if it is stubborn. Be sure to clean that other end up very nicely and regrease it all. You'll need a special clamp avaliable at most auto parts store to make the seal for the rubber to steel housing. Some people have been know to use a large diameter hose clamp in a pinch. There are 3 raised spots on the piece going into the transmisson, spin the tranny over untill you have it facing all the way down. Rest you bar aganist that and the edge of the tranny case, near the oil pan/ or side if stick. Hit the end of that with a hammer a few times and the shock will break the clip loose. I assure you that you won't hurt anything by doing this! I can take a picture if needed to show if it won't come. Keep Me updated.
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Using a 1/2-to-2-ton floor jack, lift the front of the truck and place jack stands under the frame. Once the truck is lifted enough for you to safely move around under it, begin removing the four bolts connecting the U-joint between the drive shaft and the rear axle. When you pull the drive shaft out of the tail shaft, transmission fluid will pour out of the tail shaft, so place a drip pan or oil-changing pan under the tail shaft of the transmission.
Lines And Linkage
If the truck is an automatic, you will need to remove two transmission lines from the passenger side of the transmission by the bell housing close to the transmission dip stick. If it's a manual transmission you won't have those lines, but you will have shifting linkage on the driver's side of the transmission. Depending on the year of the truck, the linkage is held on by either a cotter pin or locking-sleeve washer. You will also need to remove the speedometer cable. If it's an older truck, it will be a hard-cased cable similar to the emergency brake cable that threads onto the driver side of the transmission just before the bell housing. If the truck is a newer model, it will be an electrical set of wires attached to a plug on the tail shaft.
Remove From Engine
Remove the transmission mount bolt that holds the tail end of the transmission to the cross member on the frame. You will need to either use wood blocks or a jack to support the weight of the transmission. Take out the nine bolts on the bell housing that attach the transmission to the engine--there is one on the top center of the bell housing, two along each side of the bell housing and two on each side at the bottom next to the guide pins.
Remove From Vehicle
Once removed, maneuver the transmission to the rear of the truck about 6 inches until it clears either the clutch kit of a manual or the torque converter of an automatic. When the transmission is free, lower the bell housing end of the transmission down until the tail shaft is clear of the cross member.
The ring gear is bolted to what is called a ring gear carrier, the carrier is bolted inside the rear end housing with two bolts on each side, it is shimmed on each side to adjust backlash and pinion depth so DON'T mix up the left and right carrier shims, once the carrier is out with the ring gear attached you can remove the pinion shaft and drive out the bearing races of the pinion bearings. You also need to remove the pinion flange where the drive shaft U-Joint attaches, just hammer it off with a brass faced hammer (a steel hammer will run the flange) once the large center nut is removed.
remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly
two axles, different for ach side. Passenger side has a carrier on the half shaft, driver side is one solid link. Loosen lug nuts, the you need a 36mm socket to loosen the center nut on the drive shaft, same for both sides. Remove the cotter pin and retainer before loosening the center nut. Jack up the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Remove wheels. Remove brake calipers and tie up out of the way. Loosen and remove lower strut bolts (2) and lower ball joint bolts (3). Swing center knuckle out and off the drive shaft. On passenger side, loosen carrier bolts (3) halfway up the drive shaft, above the exhaust pipe and crossmember. This is a pain on the 94, but easier on later models. The passenger shaft has two half shafts joined at the carrier. No retainer clip is used, so pull on the end of the shaft and it will come out. Iff the inner CV boot is puked, it will probably come out in two pieces. You may have to use a large screwdriver to pry the inner shaft out of the transaxle. The driver side does not use a carrier and will come out with a strong pull. It does use a retainer clip on the inside end of the driveshaft. You can get new driveshafts with cvs as an assembly at most auto parts stores Be sure the new driver side shaft has the new retainer clip on it. Assembly is reverse of dissassembly, but make sure to tighten everything up good.
Open the passenger side door & wiggle the harness while pressing the button. If it works then there's a broken wire inside the rubber harness. If not check the passenger side switch for power. Use a test light to verify it switches from up to down. If it doesn't replace the switch.
do you mean the drive shaft. if so you just need a good lever bar to prise the drive shaft out of the transmission.if you mean you want the drive shaft out of the front wheel hub then you may need a good pller to femove it as it can be very tight on the splines