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Depends on what you drained. If you did just a normal service-- changed filter and fluid, start with 4 quarts, run engine and shift through all gears and put in park and check the dipstick. There is no exactt number as it depends haw long you let it drain. If you replaced trans, the torque converter will need quite a bit more fluid. Your shop manual will give an amount in pints, but this is just a guide and the dipstick rules. It will probably take another 1.5 to 2 quarts beyond the 4. The transfer case is a separate unit with its own drain and fill plugs. Don't neglect to change it also. Good to replace diff fluids too. Perhaps not as often, but cheap insurance. You will have to pump the fluid from these unless you want remove the covers and really clean them well. Since it is 4wd, check the condition of the vent hoses to prevent water getting in when you drive in deep water.
Without transmission fluid the car wont move, it mostly leaks at pan gasket,the transmission cooler line or front transmission seal. I have to say you may be safe to add 1 quart ATF 4 transmission fluid, being in front of the vehicle looking in the engine the dipstck is where you add transmission fluid it on the right hand side yellow handle. pull the dipstick out get a funnel that can help you add transmission fluid if the leak is not that bad this can help you get to shop that can fix the leak and put you on the road
There is a yoke at both ends of the drive shaft, then if yours is 4 wheel drive there are 4 yokes in the front steering, then 2 more at the transfer case. Here is a picture of the transmission yoke so you get an idea what they look like.
If your having to add transmission fluid and not coolant, then the water pump is ok, fill with transmission fluid look under truck, if fluid is coming out of between engine and transmission housing, then bad front transmission seal.
I had the same problem with my 1997 suburban.The transmission is building up excess pressure,its an internal problem that can only be fixed by repairing the transmission.However I drove my truck like that for about 4 years and got 300,000 miles before changing it by using a synthetic fluid and Lucas transmission additive.
IT WILL TAKE 7 QUARTS FOR FLUID CHANGE.YOU NEED TO USE FACTORY GASKET.BECAUSE THE GASKET THAT COME WITH FILTER WILL LEAK.I HAD THAT PROBLEM.YOU CAN REUSE THE OLD GASKET.ITS THICK RUBBER GASKET WITH HOLDING HOLDING TABS THAT HOLD IT IN PLACE.IF GASKET LOOKS DAMAGED OR BAD ITS BEST TO BUY IT AT DEALERS SHIP.IT COST ABOUT $40.00 DOLLARS.THE GASKET THAT COME IN FILTER KIT IT TOO THIN.IT PLAIN.IT DONT HAVE SEALING BEADS IN IT.WHEN YOU PUT IT ON ADD FLUID TRANSMISSION WILL LEAK THROUGH THE GASKET.LOOK AT THE OLD GASKET LOOK AT THE DOUBLE SEAL BEAD IT HAS IT KEEP IT FROM LEAKING.
you will still need add the proper type fluid to proper fill level, get under the truck, clean up transmission so you can visually monitor where the leak is coming from. Chock the wheels, emergency brake set, start and idle vehicle check for leaks. If trans is leaking it will probably be a front seal (oil will drip from small hole in the bottom of bell housing), pan gasket, loose cooling line to radiator, or rear tail shaft leak ( where drive shaft enters the trans.) Don't forget to check the lines for pin holes and the radiator for leaks.
Tranny slippage can
be caused by several things (each contributes to a varying degree, if at all)
1. cold parts are
smaller > > > don't seal properly
2. cold fluid is
more viscous > > > don't flow properly
3. bad fluid can
cause build-up > > > slow actuators & clog fluid passages
4. worn parts >
> > don't seal properly
Result:low fluid pressure pressing on bands/clutches
The good news:as everything warms up, tolerances normalize, system leaks seal & fluid flows more readily creating enough pressure to
keep bands/clutches from slipping excessively (normal operation)
As for the 4WD not
engaging, I would be willing to bet the front differential actuator is
frozen/stuck (assuming it has worked recently)