After almost 180,000 miles, the clutch cylinders need to be replaced. Not having done such a repair before I'm looking for a good guide. Are the Chilton or Haynes books useful? Where else can I learn where these cylinders are located and what potential gotcha's there are in removing and replacing them?
Removing and replacing is straight forward mechanic work.Here is a gotcha that very few manuals will tell you,but years of experience will teach you.Go ahead and install the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing of the trans.The clutch master cylinder needs to be "bench bled" so that as much air as possible is gone from the master cylinder before installed on the vehicle.This requires a helper.Take master cyl. to a bench and set it down while holding the assembly in your hands.Fill the reeservoir with brake fluid.I wear latex or nitrile gloves while i work to keep my hands clean.This helps in sealing off the output fluid port during this procedure.Have your assistant take a phillips head screwdriver and push the piston in,on the master cyl and hold it in the depressed position.Some fluid and air will shoot out the output port.Now take your latex glove clad finger,and press it firmly over the fluid output hole.Now release the screwdriver.Remove finger from hole,and stroke the piston in with the screwdriver and hold it at it's depressed position.Place finger over the hole.Add fluid to the reservoir.Keep repeating until only solid fluid exits the output hole.This is bench bleeding.Now install into vehicle being careful to not get brake fluid on the paint.After installing,on the clutch master cylinder rod...there is a jam nut,either 12 mm or 14 mm.Loosen this nut and back it off.Now,the threaded rod can be spun in,or out,making the rod shorter or longer.this is how you adjust the clutch pedal engagement point,after installation.Back to the clutch master and slave,they obviously need to be bled after installation,with the bleeder valve down on the slave cylinder.Good luck.
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grating geras in a manual especially first and reverse ae an indication of a clutch problem
If you have not already replaced the clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder ( clutch cable if so equipped) then that are the first things to check
normally it is the slave cylinder is leaking and will not hold pressure or the master cylinder rubbers cannot develop enough pressure to fully disengage the clutch
( cable breaking or stretched does the same thing)
If there are no other apparent problems with the clutch ( slipping , burning smell, shudders etc I would pass on a clutch kit until it is a last resort
you need to inspect the clutch hydraulic system to look for a leak.check in the truck were the master cylinder bolts to the firewall as if the master is leaking out the back it will show up the leak in this area.check around the master under the hood to see if there are signs of it leaking.check at the transmission were the slave cylinder is as this is another place they leak.if you have to fill the master because its empty there is a leak somewhere.you also may need the clutch replaced as the slave cylinder moves out to adjust for wear of the clutch which will lower the fluid level but not cause it to be empty.you will have to bleed the clutch system at the slave cylinder,there should be a bleeder screw to do this.if you find the leak in the clutch system you will have to replace the system as some come complete master lines and slave.some come with just the slave,lines,master as separate components.
The solution is pretty cut-and-dry. Fix the fluid leak and your transmission will go into gear. I don't know what to tell you to fix exactly because I do not know where it is leaking from. If it is leaking from the slave cylinder, replace the slave cylinder; If it is leaking from the master cylinder, replace the master cylinder, etc.
Fixing just one part of the clutch may not be the best option for you however. Clutch parts seem to wear out all within a few thousand miles of one-another. Depending on how many miles are on your vehicle you may want to do a complete clutch replacement so you won't have any further clutch problems for several years.
the slave cylinder looks almost like a small brake master cylinder usually near the rear of the engine compartment and will have a fill line just the same. It is used in the hydraulic operation of engaging/disengaging the clutch from the pressure plate
Clutch master cylinder is leaking out of piston cup.Detach from clutch pedal, disconnect hydralic line, and remove 2 firewall retaining bolts or nuts and pull out. Replace clutch master and bleed line at clutch slave cylinder.
You should not have to replace the master or slave cylinder with a rear main seal but if the clutch has alot of miles on it you should have that done with the seal because you will be paying for almost all of the labor with the seal.
If the seals around the shafts of master and slave are tight, they may be concealing a leak with fluid bypassing the piston seals internal to the two assemblies.
Either your master or slave cylinders need to be replaced ot have new seals installed.
Once you find the culprit and have installed a replacement, you will have to bleed the lines to evacuate air trap in the lines.
if there is a kit made for it and u are familiar with how to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder then no problem unless the cylinder bore is pitted or badly scored, in that case it is not rebuild-able. U will need a cylinder hone to do this, available at any parts store for about $10