I added a BBK Intake manifold, BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Fuel Pressure Regulator, BBK Pulleys, MSD Ignition and a Hypertech chip. We have tried for 2 days with and without a timing light to get it to stop dying. The first day with the timing light we didn't have a chance to let the car warm up before we left the shop but it kept dying on the way home. The second day without the timing light we put the car on the freeway for about 20 minutes and when the car came close to 5mph it kept dying.
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Re: 1989 Mustang GT Keeps dying
Make sure the inside of your throttle body doesn't have a gunk build up. If so, clean in out with some carb. cleaner really well. If the crack is plugged up in the throttle body, air cannot get into the engine at idle in which the car will die. Are you running an aftermarket cam? If you are, drill a 5/32 hole in the center of the lower half of the throttle plate in the throttle body. This helps a great deal as well.
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the codes refer to system too lean on banks one and two===causes --intake /exhaust leak--MAF/VAF sensors fuel pressures/pump---injectors HO2S ( heated oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifolds before the cat converters
the fuel trim is what the computer sets at after a long term run and not after a few trips around the block
it is the HO2S sensors that control the mixture by reading the exhaust gas composition and reporting to the ECM which adjusts the injector operation
they could be getting a bad reading is the flex section of the exhaust manifold pipe is cracked in side of the braid covering
You could have either an injector that is stuck open or a fuel pressure regulator that has developed a leak. A leaky injector will usually only leak fuel into one cylinder as it is located just above the intake valve in the lower part of the intake while a leaky fuel pressure regulator will leak fuel into the front end of the intake manifold [behind the throttle plates] and the fuel will acuumulate throughout the upper intake plenum. When a fuel pressure regulator develops a leak the fuel that is escaping from it flows through the small 1/8" diameter plastic vacuum line which goes from the top of the regulator to the intake manifold. Even a trace of fuel in this line means the regulator is bad. I've seen both leak items leak but probably replace 10 regulators leak for every one injector. Good luck, hope you find your problem!
This is for a 1989 Ford F150 In-Line 6-Cylinder (4.9L) wrongly posted by the Asker under a 1986 Ford Mustang....
Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. Look it up on line at any of the reputable auto parts websites to get an idea what it looks like.
There should be a Rubber Vacuum Line coming from this (the Regulator is located on the Fuel Line prior to the Fuel Injectors) to the Intake. Take this Line OFF. If there is gas in that line = The Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator diaphram is broken and the Fuel is being dumped into the Intake and NOT being advanced onto the Fuel Injectors; and the Regulator must be replaced.
Let me know if this helped.
For 2000 Chevrolet Truck Blazer
4WD 4.3L SFI 6cyl If your engine is a 4.3L V-6 with CPI (central point injection) it is
inside the upper intake manifold. The upper intake manifold is bolted on
top of the normal intake manifold.
The throttle body is mounted on
it and your fuel lines terminate into the center of this.
Removal & Installation
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator.
Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the retaining clips at
the front of the engine.
Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
Clean any dirt from the fuel pressure regulator and the
Disconnect the fuel return pipe.
Remove the fuel return pipe retainer.
Remove the fuel pressure regulator retainer.
Remove the fuel pressure regulator.
Inspect the regulator filter screen for contamination. If
contaminated, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
Fig. Fuel pressure regulator-4.2L engine
Install the regulator filter.
Install the new O-ring on the fuel pressure regulator.
Lubricate the fuel pressure regulator O-ring with clean engine
Push the fuel pressure regulator into the regulator housing on the
Install the fuel pressure regulator retainer. Tighten the
regulator retainer screw to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
Install the fuel return pipe retainer. Tighten the return pipe
retainer screw to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
Connect the fuel return pipe.
Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Inspect for leaks:
Turn ON the ignition for 2 seconds.
Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
Turn ON the ignition.
Inspect for fuel leaks.
Install the engine wiring harness into the retaining clips at the
front of the engine.
Did you have the computer reflashed for the new injectors? If not, you have to do so. I don't know how much bigger than stock your new fuel injectors are but if it's more than just a little bigger, and you don't reprogram the computer, your mixture is going to be way too rich and you'll be stumbling. Have the ECU reprogrammed to properly control the injectors - many modifications don't affect, or are not affected by, the ECU, but injectors aren't on that list.
If you did reprogram it, it may be simply because larger injectors aren't as precise when flowing slowly or at small duty cycles. There's also the chance that one or more are leaking slightly although that's not as common.