Question about 2000 Dodge Durango

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ABS hydraulic control unit

My ABS hydraulic control unit began making noise, the little electric motor continues to run even with the engine off. I had to disconnect it. Now my speedometer does not work. I went to my local parts store and had them put it on the analyzer and it said that I had a defective cam sensor, and a defective vehicle speed sensor. Are any of these sensors controlled on the same circuit as the ABS unit? Any help that you could give me would be appreciated.

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  • tgeo Mar 03, 2009

    whirring noise; turning off car does not solve; disconnected large wiring harness to ABS control module

  • wschlichter May 02, 2009

    same problem the dyo came back as a abs speed sensor replaced one on the rear dif and prob still there....this sucks



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Go to Module Master. I had the same problem sent mine in and came back. took less then 5 minutes to R/R.

Prior to 2004, Durangos with 4 wheel ABS use the Kelsey Hayes Dodge controller attached to the hydraulic unit. Durangos with just rear wheel ABS use the Kelsey Hayes 125 located separately from the hydraulic unit.
2004 and later Durangos use the Bosch 5.4 controller.

Kelsey Hayes Dodge 1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Push the harness connector locks to release the locks, then remove the connectors from the CAB.
3) Disconnect the pump motor connector.
4) Remove screws attaching CAB to the HCU.
5) Remove the CAB.

Kelsey Hayes 125 1) Push the CAB harness connector lock to release the lock and remove the connector from the controller.
2) Remove the RWAL valve harness connector from the controller.
3) Remove the controller mounting screws and remove the controller from the mounting bracket.

Bosch 5.4 1) Pull out the side locking tab on the Bosch controller as shown.
2) Remove the connector.
3) Remove the 6 screws and separate the controller from the hydraulic unit.

ABS hydraulic control unit - durango.jpg 2008 Dodge Durango
kh_dodge_location.gif Kelsey Hayes Dodge Location
kh310_location.gif 1997 and earlier Durangos using the KelsABS hydraulic control unit - kh125_location.gifkh125_location.gif
Kelsey Hayes 125 controller for Dodge trucks with rear wheel ABS only

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

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The "Shaft" inside the Pump is not turning.......Therefore, no pressure is built up which is needed to shut the pump down. Result: The pump runs all the time.

Solution: Replace Pump @ Retail Price of $820.00 if Modulator is OK.......Extra if Modulator is needed also. Yes; add Labor.......WOW

Sorry for the bad news, but I am waiting to fix mine now. Looking for ways to save on costs now. Post any Ideas Please.......

Posted on Dec 11, 2008


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1 Answer

Power steering stiff on astra van 1.7 2008

I believe the power steering on your Astra van is an electrically operated hydraulic unit with a large fluid reservoir virtually on top of the steering gear?
If you have topped up the fluid enough for it to show on the little dipstick under the cap and the steering is stiffer towards one lock I would suspect a damaged steering gear but if the stiffness is uniform along the entire travel of the steering gear then the cause is probably low or non-existent hydraulic pressure.

The pumps do fail and need replacing sometimes and it isn't an easy job to do. I have not known one to stop suddenly because of pump or motor failure (but I have from electrical supply problems) and the only one I have needed to replace was very noisy. Usually the pump can't be heard above the noise of the engine.

With the aid of a wiring diagram and some small jumper leads the wiring can be disconnected from the pump and battery current supplied directly to the pump for the purpose of testing with out running the engine. If the pump can then be heard running and the steering is no longer stiff the problem is a fuse/wiring/electrical control type trouble and further investigation will be needed.

If the pump can't be heard running or the steering feels no better then the pump unit is probably faulty.

It would probably be wise to check the fuse first.
Good luck!

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Is the ABS light on when the engine is running? You can't bleed this system if the light is on until you fix the problem and "home: it with a scan tool

Aug 26, 2017 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

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I have a 1992 Crysler Imperial. The ABS light is on and the ABS pump runs all the time. Help.

Either the ABS Module is bad or the Pump is bad--- Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1989-90 Models
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Depressurize the hydraulic accumulator. CAUTION
    Failure to depressurize the hydraulic accumulator, prior to performing this operation may result in personal injury and/or damage to the painted surfaces.
  2. Remove the fresh air intake ducts.
  3. Disconnect all electrical connectors to the pump motor.
  4. Disconnect the high and low pressure hoses from the hydraulic assembly. Cap the spigot on the reservoir.
  5. Disconnect the shift selection cable bracket from the transaxle and move it aside.
  6. Loosen the nuts on the 2 studs that position the pump/motor to the transaxle differential cover.
  7. Remove the retainer bolts that are used to mount hose bracket and pump/motor. The engine inlet water extension pipe is also held in position by these bolts. NOTE: Do not disturb the inlet water extension pipe, or engine coolant will leak out.
  8. Disconnect the wiring harness retaining clip from the hose bracket.
  9. Lift the pump/motor assembly off of the studs and out of the vehicle.
  10. Remove the heat shield from the pump/motor, if equipped and discard. To install:
  11. Place a new heat shield onto the pump/motor bracket, using fasteners provided.
  12. Install the pump/motor assembly onto the studs.
  13. Install the wiring harness retaining clip onto the hose bracket.
  14. Install the retainer bolts to the hose bracket and pump/motor. Tighten securely.
  15. Tighten the 2 nuts until secure.
  16. Install the shift selection cable bracket onto the transaxle.
  17. Connect the high and low pressure hoses to the hydraulic assembly and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
  18. Attach all electrical connectors to the pump/motor.
  19. Install the air ducts.
  20. Readjust the gearshift linkage, if it was disturbed.
  21. Connect the negative battery cable and check the assembly for proper operation.
1991-95 Models
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. CAUTION
    Failure to depressurize the hydraulic accumulator, prior to performing this operation may result in personal injury and/or damage to the painted surfaces.
  2. Depressurize the brake system.
  3. Remove the fresh air intake ducts from the engine.
  4. Remove the clip holding the high pressure line to the battery tray.
  5. Disconnect the electrical connectors running across the engine compartment in the vicinity of the pump/motor high and low pressure hoses. One of these connectors is the one for the pump/motor assembly.
  6. Disconnect the high and low pressure hoses from the hydraulic assembly. Cap or plug the reservoir fitting.
  7. Disconnect the pump/motor electrical connector from the engine mount.
  8. Remove the heat shield bolt from the front of the pump bracket. Remove the heat shield.
  9. Lift the pump/motor assembly from the bracket and out of the vehicle. Fig. 1: The pump/motor assembly mounts to the top of the transaxle case and is covered by a heat shield 86729g75.gif
    To install:
  10. Fit the pump motor assembly onto the bracket; install the heat shield and its retaining bolt.
  11. Install the pump/motor electrical connector to the engine mount.
  12. Connect the high and low pressure hose to the hydraulic assembly. Tighten the high pressure line to 145 inch lbs. (16 Nm). Tighten the hose clamp on the low pressure hose to 10 inch lbs. (1 Nm).
  13. Connect the electrical connectors which were removed for access.
  14. Install the high pressure line retaining clip to the battery tray if it was removed.
  15. Install the fresh air intake ducts.
  16. Bleed the brake system.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1991 Chrysler Imperial

1 Answer

01 Suburban with abs system. abs light came on

A relay controls the ABS motor. You can trace the wires running to it. The next time you shut the engine off unplug the relay. If that shuts it off get a new relay for the old one will not open its circuit to shut off the motor to the ABS motor

Jan 25, 2010 | 1998 Volvo V70

1 Answer

ABS brake module sounds like a motor running and won't stop unless battery is disconnected. what is fix?

I would pull the fuse for the ABS hydraulic pump and then put it back in and see what happens. Don't ever recall a pump running. Dealer may need to hook up scan tool for diagnostic fault codes, DTCs.

Principles of Operation
The ABS control module receives wheel speed readings from both front wheel speed sensors and the rear differential speed sensor, and processes this information to determine if an ABS event is necessary. The wheel speed sensor electrically senses each tooth of the ABS sensor indicators as it passes through the wheel speed sensor's magnetic field.
The ABS control module continuously monitors and compares the rotational speed of each wheel speed sensor indicator and, when it detects an impending wheel lock, modulates brake pressure to the appropriate brake caliper(s). This is accomplished by triggering the hydraulic control unit (HCU) to open and close the appropriate solenoid valves. Once the affected wheel returns to normal speed, the ABS control module returns the solenoid valves to their normal position, and normal (base) braking resumes.
The ABS control module is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the ABS control module will do a preliminary electrical check, and at approximately 20 km/h (12 mph), the pump motor is turned on for approximately one-half second. Any malfunction of the ABS system will cause the ABS to shut off; normal power assisted braking, however, remains.
Inspection and Verification — Scan Tool Communications Check
  1. Verify the customer concern by carrying out the Drive Cycle Test.
  1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Parking brake cable
  • Tire pressure
  • Tire size or mismatched tires
  • Blown fuse
  • Central junction box (CJB):
    • fuse 23 (10A)
  • Battery junction box
    • fuse 102 (50A)
  • Connectors or connections
  • Ground integrity
  • Harness routing
  • Wire chafing
  • Circuitry open/shorted

Anti-Lock Control The four-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) consists of the following components:
  • Anti-lock brake control module (2C265)
  • Front anti-lock brake sensor (2C204)
  • Front anti-lock brake sensor indicator (2C182)
  • Hydraulic control unit (2C219)
  • Rear anti-lock brake sensor (2C190)
  • Rear anti-lock brake sensor indicator (2C189)
  • Yellow ABS warning indicator

May 07, 2009 | 2000 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

2002 Suburban 1500 - ABS Light On

No doubt the control module is out, and it continue to operate when the ignition key is off due to a circuit fault. You can disable it easily by pulling the 60 amp fuse in the under hood fuse box (it is listed on the panel as ABS). Note that this disables the ABS braking feature and traction control, so be very careful when driving. The part can be purchased on the GM global parts site, about $600-$700 for the module. This will be the second time this has gone out for me and GM is not sympathetic, rather "pathetic", for a part to fail so often.

Apr 22, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 2500

1 Answer

Abs sensor light wont go off my 2005 polo

Your ABS systems use a combination of electronic and hydraulic systems to modulate the brakes individually to prevent them from locking up. ANTILOCK systems consist of wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic control unit (HCU), and an electronic control unit (ECU). Because of how complex the system is your computer does a self-test. If the check is successful, the ANTILOCK and BRAKE lights will go out within a few seconds. If one of the component of the ABS system fails to pass one or both lights will remain lit. One or both warning lights may also come on while driving, also indicating a problem. If just the ANTILOCK warning light comes on, some ABS component has failed, but the car still has hydraulic brakes. The grinding noise could the the ABS pump or your brake pads could to worn to the metal backing and grinding against the brake rotors. I recommend a inspection soon for your safety.

Mar 04, 2009 | Audi S4 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Problem with my cruise control and ABS light on 03 Explorer

Anti-Lock Control —Vehicles Built After 03/2002 The 3-channel anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:
  • front wheel speed sensors
  • front wheel speed sensor rings
  • hydraulic control unit (HCU)
  • Anti-lock brake control module (ECU)
  • rear wheel speed sensor
  • rear wheel speed sensor rings
  • yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator
The 4-channel anti-lock brake system with traction control and stability assist system consists of the following components:
  • active brake booster with integral solenoid
  • brake booster release switch
  • front wheel speed sensors
  • front wheel speed sensor rings
  • hydraulic control unit (HCU)
  • stability assist module (ECU)
  • stability assist event indicator
  • lateral accelerometer
  • longitudinal accelerometer (4x4)
  • rear wheel speed sensors
  • rear wheel speed sensor rings
  • steering wheel position sensor
  • yaw rate sensor
  • yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator
  • brake pressure transducer
  • traction control switch
I suspect the abs issue is causing the speed control not to work if it happened at the same time the cruise control stopped working. When the yellow ABS light comes on, it means the ABS is dactivated. You may have a faulty accelerometer which senses acceleration and yaw (side to side lean). I have not seen a bad one but you said it is sensitive to acceleration.
I would unplug it and see what happens. The connector should have a small tab to depress so you can pull the connector out.
Here is where it is:

Accelerometer Removal and Installation
  1. NOTE: The accelerometer is located under the center, rear passenger seat carpet. (I think you have to remove seat for access).
    Cut the carpeting along the perforations.
  1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
  1. Remove the nuts and remove the accelerometer.
Have dealer hook up tester and pull fault codes if you can't find an easy solution.
Some background info
  • A malfunction in the anti-lock brake system will cause the anti-lock brake control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power-assisted braking remains.
  • Malfunctions are indicated by the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
  • The anti-lock brake system is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the anti-lock brake control module will carry out a preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a three-second illumination of the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
  • During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.
  • Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20 km/h (12mph), the anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor for approximately one-half second. At this time, a mechanical noise may be heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.
  • Pedal pulsation coupled with noise while braking on loose gravel, bumps, wet or snowy roads is normal and indicates correct functioning of the anti-lock brake system.
  • Warning Lamp Indicator
    The anti-lock brake system (ABS) uses the yellow ABS warning indicator to alert the driver of a malfunctions in the ABS.
    The yellow ABS warning indicator will come on to warn the driver that the ABS has been turned off due to a symptom that exists in the ABS. Normal power assist braking remains but wheels can lock during a panic stop while the yellow ABS warning indicator is illuminated.

    Please report back, I am curious if that is what it is. Good luck

    Mar 03, 2009 | 2003 Ford Explorer

    2 Answers

    92 AWD, My hydraulic actuator on my ABS hums loud enough to hear from inside the car. It keeps humming with the car turned off. I have to disconnect the battery when I park to avoid running the battery...

    Disconnecting the wires may consequently cause non function of ure vehicle speed reading as the system is dependant on your wheel speed suplied by ure abs speed sensors, it might also result in non starting depending on wheather or not the abs ecu is a main ecu or not, i strongly suggest you get hold of a proper wiring diagram and get sum one clued up to rather bypass the system by briging the concerned cercuits the proper way,

    Jul 22, 2008 | 1993 Subaru Legacy

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