Whats the problem when the truck wont start and i tap the clutch slave cylinder and it does start? but then that wont work anymore. what do i do? [email protected]

It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when depressed. What is the year make and model? It most likely has a hydraulic clutch. Many vehicles have the clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing of the transmission. This means that the fluid line to the slave cylinder was removed to remove the transmission. If a new slave cylinder was installed when the clutch was replaced (this is a good idea to do when servicing a clutch with a bell housing internal slave cylinder) then the system will need to be bled to remove air from the system and allow the clutch disengagement to function properly.

The clutch slave cylinder shouldn't cause a no-start condition. If you replaced the clutch master cylinder there is a possibility that you may have to readjust the clutch safety switch in order to make it work to allow the engine to crank. If the engine cranks but doesn't start, you may want to look around down near the side of the transmission where you were working to ensure that you did not damage or remove the crankshaft position sensor electrical connector. If this is damaged or removed the engine will not start.

Clutch Plate Installed Backward , Or The Slave Cylinder Not Working

Look for a problem in the hydraulic clutch system. Sometimes the seals in the clutch master cylinder fail and won't push fluid through the line to the slave cylinder. Check if you even have fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir. Sometimes the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing can also fail. Watch the clutch action at the clutch lever (where the slave cylinder will push the lever forward, if operating properly), while someone presses the clutch pedal. If you see no movement, one of your cylinders has failed, or no fluid is available, or the line is plugged, but that is very unlikely for a clutch line to plug up. If the clutch fluid ran dry, refill at the reservoir and bleed the clutch line, at the slave cylinder.

You start with the master & slave cylinder,
any cables,etc & hopefully the transaxle doesn't
have to come out

There is a clutch master cylinder,a clutch slave cylinder,and the fluid.If you press on the clutch pedal and there is no pressure you lost the fluid,if either leak from the master or the slave even the hose line,A rule of thumb the master clutch cylinder and a slave are replaced as pair,

It is a hydraulic clutch. Have you checked the fluid? It likely has leak. Bad slave cylinder?

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

It could be a bad clutch cylinder or a bad slave cylinder. If it is either - the clutch would not fully disengage. This would make changing gears very difficult. If it is the slave cylinder the system should loose fluid and start to drip if you pump it repeatedly. If it is the clucth cylinder it should just seep past the plunger seals and the fluid may not lower. If you put the truck in gear without starting it and push the clutch in - can you push the vehicle? If the answer is no - the clutch is not fully disengaged.

Check the clutch master cylinder, the line to the slave cylinder on the bellhousing and the slave for leaks. If fluid is low there is a leak. Master can "bypass" as well similar to a brake master in which case it wont leak but the slave won't move when the clutch is applied. If that system is working then the clutch likely has worn out.