Fuel pump not coming on,installed new one, white plug that has a yellow wire has 5 volts and ground is ok the 2 wires in the center shows 0

Four wires the the sender unit. One will have 12 volts all the time with key on. This is the fuel gauge. One will have power for 2 seconds when the key is turned on. This is the fuel pump. Two of them will have a constant ground. Grounds will be black, black with a colored stripe on it, or have a black stripe. Check the harness plug plug for voltage, again it only last for 2 seconds. If you have voltage at the wire. replace the pump. If not, probe the wire about 3 inches back from the plug, check for voltage again. If you have voltage there repair or replace the plug. Most wires break right behind the harness plug.

Just did my fuel pump on the 2001 isuzu rodeo. Well here is what you need to do about the different wire colors. First disconnect your negative battery. Drop the fuel tank and replace pump. Remember to have a splice kit in hand. Ok now here is how you connect the different colored wires. Black goes with black. Gray goes with black and orange wire. Purple goes wit blue and yellow. And the last wires goes together. I hope this helps.

That code is for the ignition control circuit. It is the white wire that runs from Ignition module to the VCM. this controls the timing.

This is either a bad wire/connection from the VCM to the ignition module, ignition module, or VCM. I would check them closely in that order. This can commonly be a bad ditributor

Tests/Procedures:
1. Use an air gap spark tester set at 25-30 KV and check the output from the coil wire and then at multiple spark plug wires.
2. Bring the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) #1 and verify the rotor is pointing to the 8 that is cast into the distributor housing to make sure it is not out of time.
3. If the distributor is dropped correctly, but spark is erratic at the plugs but good at the coil, replace the distributor cap and rotor with one from the dealer.

Potential Causes:
Distributor Cap
Incorrect Distributor Timing
Ignition Rotor

Tech Tips:
This trouble code can set from extended cranking and is most likely not the cause of the problem as long as there is spark
Tests/Procedures:
1. Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) or lab scope, check the White wire at the ignition module pin B while cranking. This should be a 0-5 volt square wave pattern any time the engine is cranking or running.
2. If there is more than 5 volts on the White wire at pin B, check the White wire from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the ignition module pin B for shorts to voltage.
3. If the wire checks OK, check powers and grounds to the PCM while cranking. If the powers and grounds are OK at the PCM, the PCM will need to be replaced.

Potential Causes:
Ground Ignition Module Power
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Wiring
Tech Tips:
Conditions for Setting the DTC The Ignition Control voltage is more than 4.9 volts.


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Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day

Your fuel pump is powered by the GREEN fuse link in the fuse link holder. If you have 2 terminals (both WHITE/BLACK wires) at the fuel pump relay that is HOT all the time (even with the key OFF) then this fuse link is OK. There are no other fuses to be concerned with.

There is also a "Fuel Pump Control Unit" located on the left rear quarter panel, behind the "B" pillar. (See Picture)

POWER GOING TO FUEL PUMP NOT TO FUEL PUMP.YOU CAN BUY AND REPLACE FUEL PUMP WIRES SEPERATELY.SOUND LIKE OLD WIRES HAS A OPEN CIRCUIT OR POOR GROUND.

Check the red/white wire at the fuel pump relay for 12v
check the white/yellow wire for 12 v
check the dark blue/yellow for ground
If its all ok check the dark green/black wire for power going to the fuel pump

One wire will be a common ground.  Depending on how much fuel you have in the tank you should receive a voltage from about 5 to 9 volts from the common ground to the fuel gauge - the other is the live to the Fuel Pump, typically - your 4 wire situation may be two grounds - one to each - put a fuse 10amp fuse in-line or disconnect the pigtail from tank and test for voltages and Zero resistance which would be the same as if you put both probes from your tester together and the meter shows "1" - if there is a problem or resistance then the reading will be "0" or the resistance value.  Be sure to use low Ohms setting or you may not get any reading.
This is of course - general info, from which should lead you to the answer you seek.
Good luck.
East Coast Canada Rocks!!!
:)

Good luck.
There may be a ground that just connects to the tank itself - you can test for Ohms with a meter to determine if these are ground wires or must be determined.  Can check between negative to battery to 

Do you have a fuel guage reading for the rear tank when selected? Unplug the rear tank fuel pump electrical connector and check for voltage on the terminal with the brown/ white wire and the orange wire should be twelve volts. If nothing then measure the orange wire for continuity to ground should close to 0 or .1 ohms. If no continuity between ground and the orange wire then you have an open on the orange wire this needs to be repaired so that when you test for continuity again it is within range. If you have twelve volts now between the connector terminals. Plug the connector back in and try the pump again. If you had 12 volts to begin with disregard the repair above. Unplug the front fuel pump electrical connector and test for continuity between the terminals on the tank that the red and orange wires go to. Record the readings. Now you a baseline of what the rear tank fuel pump should read. Now do the same test on the rear tank between the terminals on the fuel pump where the brown/white and orange wires go. Chances are you'll find out the rear pump it self is bad from not being used for a while.

Hello;
You may have a break in the wire inside the tank to the fuel pump. I have seen the wires disconnect as the pump is installed.
Rich
RPM Northwest