Personally, I would clean the grease off of the commutator and brushes and put a 3/4" drywall screw through the thermal switch. All of these things are inside the motor. there is no need to remove the motor or regulator. Instead, remove the end cap ( where it plugs in) and pull out the guts of the motor ( end cap, brushes, springs and armature). Note the rotational position of the armature where it comes out of the motor easily. After repair, preassemble the guts ( paying attention to the rotational position of the armature) and reinstall into the motor. This is a better fix than replacement every 2-3 years
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Your Lumina APV is a clone of the Pontiac Transport and Oldsmobile APV's which all have identical Heater & A/C controls. The Heater & A/C controls usually wear out mechanically causing no control of temperature. This is a difficult repair and is best made by a dealers ASE Certified Technician. A/C may require re-charging and or possible replacement of the hoses which carry the refrigerant as they become porous and leak. Additionally, the Compressor and its Clutch may possibly require replacement.
The High beams are controlled by pushing the Turn Signal switch forward toward the Instrument panel and have a momentary "Flash to Pass" function by pulling the Turn Signal Lever upward toward the steering wheel and return to Low Beam upon release of the turn signal Lever. If neither function of the Beam selector lights the High Beams it is pssible that the Headlamp bulbs are burned out or open connections in the wiring harnesses. Do you have an owners manual for your Lumina? If so it has information regarding the Multi-Functions of the Turn Signal Lever.
This happened on our '95 Lumina APV early in its life. Luckily, it was still under warranty, as it took the better part of two weeks for the dealer to find out that the problem was with the fuel injector wiring harness.
Sorry friend, the noise is from a worn out bearing and there is nothing that we can do other then replace the blower motor. This would be a good time to replace it since when the weather turns cold the nois will get worst and then total blower failure. Easier to replace in the summer then witner in the cold. Good luck friend.
When's the lst time a major tune up was complete? You may just need some maintenance. When I say major I mean the following Spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, pcv vlave, check the EGR valve and replace if needed, and inspect/replace drivebelt(if needed). I had an EGR clog on mine and it would lose alot of power, sometimes stall. Also check that your fuel injectors are working proply. You should have a nice cone spray of fuel coming out. You will also want to make sure that your spark plugs are correctly gapped. Your local auto supply store should be able to tell you the correct gap.
Hope this helps.
On my '95 Trans Sport (I don;t think theere's any difference - under the hood - look about the middle of the firewall near the top. You'll see the motor & outer housing. There are 4 screws in the housing, but don't know if disconnecting & removing the screws will allow you withdraw the blower assy on the engine side of the firewall.
For me, I checked there was volts at the blower electrical connector.
There was, so I took a soft hammer and whacked the motor casing a few times. It started to turn, but with a squeel. So I whacked it more, the squeel lessened & the motor speeded up. So I just continued whacking from different directions until I seemed to have aligned things - max speed, no squeel. Seems to be working 100% now (for the time being).
If no volts at the motor connector, try whacking the blower relay at the upper portion of the firewall about a foot to the left of the blower. This worked as a temporary fix on my old '91 APV. Eventually it failed for good. The new relay fried in short order. Had to put in a higher Amps one. Also check the relay connector, mine was corroded out and had to be replaced as well.