I had the same problem with my1994 3-speed. I whent back and took both clutches apart and found a gasket that had not been seated properly and replaced it. workes fine. The lip of the gasket wouldn't go into the place it should. I assembled the disk put on ky jelly for lube and found a glass bowl that was about the same size. Putting the disk with with the gasket lip side down in the bowl so that the gasket was held very close. It was then in the same position as it should be when assembled. I then put the bowl in the freezer for an hour. when I took it out it stayed in the proper position. I just dropped it into the clutch assembly. Fit perfect no problem. Dan
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Is it an Automatic or Standard transmission? Your description of the problem is very confusing. An automatic does not have a throwout bearing. The clutches or disks on an automatic are not for the average Joe to mess with. Please let us know what you're working with.
1 Park your car with its front tyres touching the curb. Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal without applying any throttle. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If the gearbox grinds when you try to shift in first from a standstill, there's a damage in the clutch too.
2 Try to pull off in 3rd gear with the front wheels at the curb, and without applying throttle. If the engine doesn't die, it shows a complete clutch failure. In that case, do not drive this vehicle.
3 Find a smooth, straight road to test the vehicle. Start from first, and slowly accelerate from second. As you do this use late-shifting, i.e. slightly over-rev the engine (approx. 500-1000 RPM faster than the revs you'd normally shift at). Up-shift to second without using double-clutching. Repeat the same procedure when shifting into 3rd. Now, with your car running at approximately 50 km/h (25 mph) try down-shifting to second without double-clutching. Both the up-shifting and the down-shifting must be done without grinding. Grinding of the gears indicates a gearbox malfunction, most likely in the sync gears ("synchronizers"). To make sure it's the synchronizers, try up-shifting and down-shifting with double-clutching. If the grinding stops, then it's the synchronization.
2 Shift into drive and hold the break pedal after making sure your brakes work. Press the gas pedal all the way down. The engine should not fade. If it does, it means the transmission (particularly the clutch) does not disengage completely.
3 Check for smooth shifting. On an even and relatively horizontal road you should be able to accelerate without any tangible jolts. If there are such, the gearbox has malfunctioned.
4 Check for vibrations. Driving at about 70 km/h (35 mph) switch to Neutral (both auto and manual). There shouldn't be any lateral vibrations. If there are, this is either due to a warping of the drive-shaft, or a suspension damage. Basically, drive-shaft warping is perceived as a vibration in both vertical and horizontal direction, whereas a suspension damage is felt as a vibration in only one direction (i.e. either horizontally or vertically).
5 Test steering. When trying to enter a corner with approximately 30 km/h (15 mph) there shouldn't be any tangible under-steer. The presence of such may be due to a differential failure, especially in FWD cars. Novice drivers must never try and test their differentials by trying to induce under/over-steer!
Incomplete disengaging is due to the trailing disc sticking to the leading one, e.g. because of mechanical soiling of the friction surfaces or worn out springs.
Incomplete disengaging in automatic transmissions is felt as a forward jolt when the gearbox changes gears, whereas incomplete engaging is felt as over-revving the engine without any significant change in speed, especially when stepping on the throttle at high speeds (over 50 km/h or 30 mph).
Automatic transmissions have the so-called "hydraulic clutch". It's basically a combination of a hydraulic pump, driven by the engine, and a hydraulic motor, linked to the rest of the drive-train. This allows for the hydraulic liquid to flow through the motor, even if its load is too big for the engine to rotate it. This eases operation, but results in poorer acceleration, greater fuel consumption and severely decreased ability of the driver to use engine braking, which can be very dangerous on long downward slopes. Hydraulic clutches are easier to operate in urban driving, but become a drawback on long roads
Gearboxes come in three types: manual, semi-automatic, and automatic
Malfunctions in a hydraulic clutch include incomplete disengaging (due to old hydraulic fluid, which has become thicker than specified by the manufacturer), or incomplete engaging (most often due to a leak of hydraulic fluid or presence of an air pocket within the hydraulic circuit. These are both dealt with by replacing the hydraulic fluid, bleeding (if necessary) of the hydraulic system, and removing any possible leaks.
The most common malfunction of a dispatch box is the inability to change its function (e.g. switch between 4x2 and 4x4) If this happens, refer to a repair shop.
The clutch is designed to smoothly disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive-train.
The clutch disengaging too low or too high is an indication of a worn out trailing disc.
There are implements that allow an automatic gearbox to operate in semi-automatic mode, allowing the driver to manually shift gear up or gear down, but w/o using a clutch. These operate exclusively by aids of electronics. This is common in high-class German cars like the S-Klasse Mercedes. Usually the corresponding position of the lever is marked with T or M and the driver selects a gear down by moving the lever to the left, and a gear up by nudging it do the right.
Semi-automatic gearboxes are combined with a hydraulic clutch. They allow the driver to select a gear up or a gear down. These are most often seen in rally cars, where there are two levers on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually the right one switches a gear up, and the left one switches a gear down.
Sounds like the clutch release plate or release bearing are damage or disintegrated. Because one or both of these parts are damaged the clutch does not properly disengage which will result in crunching gear changes at slow speed and also clutch dragging at lights (wanting to stall) etc.
You'll need to split the transmission from the engine block to investigate.
The pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel and you need a pilot bearing/bushing puller. Some A/P stores will rent it to you for free (deposit). the throwout bearing is held onto the clutch fork normally by clips. Sometimes you have to take the "fork" out to get the bearing off.
Make sure to note how "deep' the pilot bearing/bushing is so that when you install the new one it is set at the right depth.
Running 2 tire sizes on the front could/would damage the transmissions differential, depends on how long it was driven like that. It would require a trip to a tranny shop to fix it. But usually a loud humming noise comes from front wheel bearings going bad. On that car, the wheel bearing is pressed into the Hub, so if it is a bad bearing, it is still a trip to a shop for repair. Sorry I dont have any good news for you.
IF ITS AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. THROTTLE VALVE CABLE NEED ADJUSTMENT OR COULD BE THE GOVERNOR PROBLEMS LIKE VALVE STUCK GOVERNOR WEIGHTS BINDING. GOVERNOR DRIVEN GEAR DAMAGED OR.BURNED DIRECT CLUTCH PLATES.THE 1-2 3-4 SHIFT VALVES STUCK IN VALVE BODY. IF IT MANUAL TRANSMISSION SHIFT LINKAGE OR SHIFT FORK OUT OF ADJUSTMENT OR WORN DAMAGED OR I- 2- 3 GEARS AND BEARINGS WORN OUT.
If it's going into gear hard it's most likely because the clutch is not disengaging enough. Do you have a lot of free play? Does the clutch start to grab with the pedal real close to the floor? If so, check the the nylon bushing under the dash where the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder attaches to the arm. Is the pedal real spongy, is there air in the hydraulic system? Another posibility is that you damaged the pilot bearing causing it to drag and it keeps trying to turn the trany. If you get the rolling a little then try to put it into gear, will it go in easier? If so the clutch is dragging. There is nothing with the brake lights that will cause it to shift hard. With an automatic trany the brake lights will unlock the torque converter. Also with a 4X4 and automatic trany and electric shift on the transfer case, the transfer will not shift unless the trany is in "N" and your foot is on the brake. There is nothing on a manual set up that anything to do with brake lights and shifting.
hi the noise you can hear is the clutchs release bearing you need to take the box out and replace it and the pressure plate will be also damaged due to the bearing seizing basicly the whole clutch assemablly will need replacing sorry cold be worse it could have been the box yates210456