It accelerates fine under full throttle until it shifts into Drive and then it starts to ping hard. I've set the timing back to 10 degree's from 14 and it hasn't made any difference. I put a new 155 Lph fuel pump in a year and half ago but almosts seems like its gone again since it cranks over for a time before it starts. If I turn the key 3 times to prime the fuel pump then it starts right away. Wondered if you could confirm my fears that new fuel pump is gone already or is it a knock sensor or o2 sensor out of calibration. Look forward to your reply . Thanks Phil
Hmm the 2 situations are related 4 degrees should have made alot of difference including bad starting it is a classic case of pre ignition is your fuel the correct octane value and unleaded
can you check the total advance of the dizzy as it appears you have full auto advance to early /weak or broken springs would cause this
when you have more than 1 problem as in this case it is vital that you correct the pre ignition first as the 2 problems will feed off each other chris (merlinv12)
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1. check transmission fluid level or if you can change the fluid & filter.
2. check throttle position sensor (tps).
3. if fluid level & tps are ok & still not upshifting automatically, temporarily (so you can take it to a transmission specialist) , try to manually shift. starting from dead stop, shift to D1. at about 25mph shift to D2. (be gentle on the accelerator & don't over rev on each gear. release accelerator pedal & don't step on the brakes while shifting from D1 & D2).
You need a new neutral safety switch. The car does not know what gear it is in so it goes into safe mode and sets off in third gear. There about £150 new but i got one from the scrap yard for a fiver. There is a guide on one website that shows you how recondition the switch but can't remember which one.
Hi I too have a 96 mustang GT. Congrats on your new car!
Ill stat with the mechanical problem. If it seems to be stuttering under hard acceleration it is likely in need of new spark plugs, wires, and blasting caps (or distributor caps... seems to vary in name from manufacturer to manufacturer.) This is the most likely solution and the cheapest even though a full swapout will run you about 300+ labor if you cannot change spark plugs yourself. It is very possible to do but you shouldn't undertake the project unless you are prepared and knowledgeable. Other problems could stem into needing to replace the intake manifold and could possible be linked to a exhaust manifold leak although this would be more prevelant under all throttle positions.
As for driving standard remember that it will take time. I honestly recomend swithching the stock shifter to a aftermarket short shifter if you havent already. The stock shifters in the GT's are very long and quite vague. Americanmuscle.com has a shifter i can really recomend which costs about 90 dollars with the gasket. I recomend it because it is the cheapest option and being 17 doesnt generally come with a lot of money. Actually mastering maunal transmissions takes time that all. Just make sure that you are smooth with the gas and clutch during shifting and make it as fluid as possible. Remember that you are matching the revs of the new gear with the speed of the engine (so if your doing 50mph in third your revs are roughly 2600, when you shift for fourth your revs will be 2000) To make the shift as smoothe as possible and to start to understand your transmission you can always try to let off the clutch when the revs fall to 2000. Once you start thinking about shifting the skills to rev match downshifts, heel and toe, and even powershift will come in time.
About 3 months ago, during my 25-mile commute to the ambulance base where I volunteer, my transmission started acting up. After a few minutes of driving normally, it started to upshift very hard. Each upshift was accompanied by a noticeable "Bang!" and it felt like the car was hitting a pot hole.
I immediately stopped and checked the tranny fluid at a service station, but the fluid level was fine and it didn't have any burnt smell. The car has 76K miles on it and the transmission fluid was changed at 50K per the maintenance schedule. I had no choice but to continue on to the base, driving very gently.
I made a stop about 5 minutes before arriving, to pick up dry cleaning. I was in the cleaners for about 8 minutes, and when I came out the hard shifting had completely disappeared. The car drove smoothly for the next 3 months.
Now, this problem seems to recur any time I drive the car even remotely hard. We're not talking about full-throttle accelerations here, since my everyday driving stays below 2500 RPM to save on gas. But if I'm in a hurry and start driving a touch harder - crossing over 3500 RPM - then the tranny will start shifting hard within minutes. Let it sit for 10 minutes with the engine off, and the problem is gone again
If this happens right after you shift it is likely the check valve in the fuel line at the pump. If not occuring after the shift you may be experiencing spark blow out. Try reducing your plug gap to .035 and see if that helps. This is especially important if you have made any modifications that will increase your boost over stock levels.
I am having the same problem with my mustang, have replaced tps, egr valve and sensor, clean maf, new plugs and wires, new fuel filter, cleaned throtle body and still having same problems....Please help!!!!!
Therre is no DTC code "5". The DTCs start at 12. If the knock sensor (there are actually 2) was bad, you would have an acceleration issue. The knock sensor changes the timing of the spark to eliminate detonation, or "pinging". Do you have a "Ping" condition/valve rattle on acceleration?
To reset the light, open the hood, remove the 15 amp EFI fuse for 5 minutes. Replace it, and start the car and drive it until it reaches operating temperature. If the light comes back on instantly, you have a bad sensor or a bad wire.