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Re: 2006 F-150 DOOR SKIN REMOVAL
If you're referring to the outer skin, you have to drill out the pinch welds and bend the outer skin away from the inner structure. You should see the pinch welds on the inside of the door. Your best bet is to remove the door altogether and place it on a couple of saw horses face down to drill the welds off.
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If you take off the outer door skin you will have to replace it. They are folded the welded around the inner frame. Generally a door skin removal tool is used to cut/grind the skin off. There are several youtube videos on this process as it is difficult to explain step by step.
There is a particular tool for this you can get at any auto parts store. It's called a panel removal tool. There are special buttons that are set into the panel that pop into holes in the door skin and you find each one by sticking the flay tool between the door panel and skin of door and pry the button out of the hole in door skin. This tool also has one end that removes the door window crank and opening lever by placing it between the plastic and the handle and just push it and roll it around till the retainer clip comes off and remove the handles. Find any screws that may be also attaching the panel and remove them.
unbolt the outer door skin by removing the door handle fist there is a small pin in the bottom of the handle next to the lock when you have that out you will need to remove the t25 bolts that holds the skin to the fram
The best place to look would be a hanes repair manuel you can get them at about any parts store. The other place online Google search 99 toyota corolla door skin removal. alout of times you can unscrew all the screws in the panel if power acceceries are on the arm rest should be able to pull up the back side and pull up and out then there should be corigated clips that hold the door skin on pull loose the bottom and push up and the door skin should come up be carefull when pulling don't pull to hard where the panel breaks they actully sell flat prying tools to remove the corigated pins when ready to put back together put the pins in the door skin start at the top slid top in push lower in install bolts. Removing the outerpanel best off to change door when the door skin is off it is much lighter. there is bolt clusters in the door hinges you will have to remove plus any wires. when putting new door on get another person to hold the door while instaling it will make it much easier. Keep bolt snug and push new door until alined open and tighten bolts
The skin is only spot welded in a few spots other then that is just a
sealer all around the skin holding it and protecting it at the seam. Remove the door and inner panel.
Drilled out the few spot welds.
Wire wheeled the exposed sealer around skin on the inside door jamb.
Use scraper to slowly work the folded edge up 90 degrees.(anything slim and small would work) (With the old one you could just grind the edge off.)
Carefully pulled skin off.
Few minutes of dolly and hammering around the now new door skin lip to
create a perfect 90 degree shape all around with the edge just peeled
Apply sealant to new door shell edge.
Slide skin on and in exact location needed.
Clamp skin all the way around.
Remove a few clams on one side, start hammer and dolling extra lip back
around the shell lip, when done put clamps back on, and keep going down
the line in this order.
Let clams sit as long as the sealer you have used suggests.
Read more at http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2474146&ktrack=kcplink
remove the door. drill the spot welds up top. grind the edges of the old door until you can separate it with a hand chisel and hammer with ease. and get a soft hammer and a piece of wood and gently bend over the edges. dont forget to apply adhesive to the reinforcement inside the door to the skin and spot weld the upper lip of the door skin.
There are a couple of screws holding the armrest in place, remove them. Using a small pick type of tool, pop out the power window master switch, there is another screw under it. The door panel itself is held in place with push clips, so grab the panel from the bottom and pull it out until all the clips are out of the door, then slide it straight up to get it off the top of the door edge.
If you look under the handle you will see two round flat rivet heads. You will need to remove the door skin. Roll the window all the way down. Pull the plastic trim up off the window regulator arm/handle and unscrew it, there is a screw inside the arm rest in the place where your fingers go, and another screw behind the inside door handle that holds the plastic molding in place. After those are unscrewed it is just a matter of popping off the skin with a suitable pry bar or trim plug pry bar tool (the door skin is attached by plastic barbed plugs that go around the outside of the door) Pry from the bottom 1st, then the sides. Lift skin away from door from bottom and then pull up to remove skin from door...this will release it from the top where the skin attaches inside the door next to the glass. Temporarily attach the window handle and roll up the window. Cut the doors inside plastic liner to gain access to the inside (Duct Tape this all back up air tight when re-assembly). Keep that window handle close...you may have to adjust the window height to move the glass/arm out of your way. Once the outside handle is drilled out (use a big drill bit and go just deep enough to break the head off then use a punch to drive out the rivet) you just have to unhook the metal arm that goes to the latch. Bolt on a new handle and re-assembly is reverse of disassembly. Take advantage of having the inside of the door open to lube up the window regulator or even spray a good dose of Rust Check etc inside to protect it from rust. Rangers are pretty bad for having the bottoms of the doors rust out.
I see this was asked years ago but never answered. So for the future questions about this,
The doors and roof panels on 4th Gen F-bodies are SMC (Sheet Molded Compound), a form of fiberglass. The skin is glued on. To remove a glued on panel use either a heat gun or a plumbers torch (Map Gas). Heating around the skin where the panel is bonded to the inner structure will break down the adhesive. Be careful not to burn the SMC away in a fire (heat guns are safer than the torch). Where you start, insert a putty knife to lightly pry the skin off as you heat the area.