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This will require the removal of the timing belt and the pinning of the injector pump to maintain pump timing. This engine is an interference engine and valve damage will occur if not done correctly. As there is no belt replacement period specified for the belt but industry standard is 60.000 miles so with a leaking seal ( oil destroys rubber belts) it would be prudent to consider a new belt, adjustment pulley and crank shaft seal as well. Have the job done by an accredited shop conversant with your vehicle .
I have been doing research on the Delphi pump and it apparently is associated with lucas/cav and as such is timed by the use of a dial test indicator that, through the use of a plunger and cam, runs on the cam block in the pump and determines when injection begins. Initial timing is to set the flywheel on the injection timing mark and the pump flange mark set on the timing case mark. To get it exact I would recommend that you have a diesel pump shop do the timing using the correct tools. As the pump is not electronic as such (from my research into Delphi ) it is basically a manual injector with a electronic controlled governor. Any way the best advice is to have a pump expert set the timing.
incorrect ignition point for the injectors
diesels ignition point is around 22 degrees btdc for pumps or from the crank sensor if common rail ( information of year or pump or common rail not included )
if it is a pump with pipes to injectors , you have the timing incorrect
No problem here its the smae as a VW engine ,now iam not sure if this is a common rail type or a injector pump ,All these engines have a 8mm hole in the spoke flange of the camshaft and pump timing wheel ,common rail may not have one though .Look for the TDC mark on the flywheel through a elongated slot then with the cam gear locked in with a old drill bit through the hole into the hole in the head and away you go ,now if this engine doesnt have any holes then look on the cam shaft for a slot on the back and this is horizontal ,A quick check is is too look at the inlet valve on NO1 and it should point up to the left and the exhaust up and to the right then look for the locating hole if fitted or a slot on the back of the cam ,WHATEVER YOU DO CRANK ENGINE SLOWLY WITH A RACHET , to make sure valves clear slightest resistance STOP .Didnt you paint the gears before you took it off? if the belt has broke then sure as **** eggs you will have at least 6 valves bent .Will be the same as a seat as well this car .Haynes amnuals are not worth the money i have found useless thngs
Hi Waynee, You forgot to say which engine is in your vehicle? The HZ engine has timing gears and a timing belt (That's a diesel engine) the belt drives the injector pump The KZ engine also has gears and a timing belt,. (Also a diesel engine) same as above. The RZ engine uses just a timing belt (And that one is a petrol engine) Regards Johngee10
Either the water pump pulley is failing or cam tensioner, its quite common on peugeots engines it can be fixed but its a pain to do if your not mechanically minded. the engine mounts have to come off. It shouldnt be expensive to put i the garage.
dont drive it though it may snap and wreck the engine.
If a diesel, you might check the diesel pump drive belt (at the right side of engine when looking at the engine from front of car). It's possible the teeth on the belt have stripped and put the pump timing out. An alternative may be a "stop solenoid" failure. The solenoid stops diesel getting to the injectors when the "ignition" is turned off and "stalls" the engine.
I don't know if the injector pump on a petrol engine has a similar setup as a diesel but it might be worth checking.
These engines are identified as an interference engine and on no account must the crank shaft and cam shaft be moved with the timing belt removed. You no not need to remove the water pump. You need to remove the water pump pulley only (not the water pump). I trust this helps.