Question about 2002 Dodge Intrepid

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Changing oil What size of ratchet or wrench do I need to for the oil pan bolt? quentin

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  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    What ratchet size do I need?



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Most Chrysler products (Excluding the diesel engines) have either 13mm or 15mm. Since this is a car, I would say 13mm. Just about everything on the car is in Metric sizes so if you get yourself a wrench roll in metric you should be able to do the normal driver maintenance and routine things like oil changes.

Posted on Aug 16, 2008


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What tool do i need to tighten bolts on my 2008 Chrysler pt cruiser?

what you need is a 1/4 in drive ratchet 10 mm socket and a extension if pan is leaking it may not help to tighten the bolts. To replace the gasket takes about 3 hours to do. First jack car up place on stands. remove plastic splash shield at drive belts. Remove the structural collar at rear of engine 4 bolts, and side on front of engine 5 bolts. remove strut rod 3 nuts 2 bolts one brace held on with nuts. now pan can come out. clean off pan and block and install new gasket. A 3/8 drive socket set and ratchet is needed in metric size. If doing gasket drain oil first. I like to let them drain overnight when I can its less messy.

Dec 27, 2014 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What size wrench should be used on oil pan plug for a 3500 engine?

It requires a 15mm socket. If you only have an SAE socket set available, I believe a 9/32" will do, so long as you take it easy and the bolt isn't locked up... Then you could end up stripping the head.

Sep 20, 2014 | 2008 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

How to replace oil pan

5.2 liter V8 engine?

Remove the four front skid-plate bolts holding the front skid plate, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the skid plate.

Pull the plastic splash shield away from the vehicle, loosening the retaining clips. Remove the splash shield.

  • Place an oil drain container under the oil pan. Loosen the drain fitting with a wrench until oil drains from the pan. When oil is done draining, tighten the drain fitting.

  • Disconnect the electrical connections running to the starter motor. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the starter motor.
  • Remove the oxygen sensor socket from the exhaust pipe, using a wrench.
  • Remove the exhaust manifold bolts where the exhaust meets the manifold on both sides, using a ratchet and socket
  • Place an jack under the transmission to support it. Remove the pressure on the transmission crossmember.

  • Remove the bolts that hold the transmission crossmember in place, using a ratchet and socket. Then remove the crossmember. Place a jack stand under the transmission to keep the transmission from falling off the jack if hit. Once removed, the exhaust will hang down, allowing enough room to remove the oil pan.
  • Disconnect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
  • Remove the oil pan bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the oil pan and gasket.
  • Clean the mounting surfaces of the new oil pan and engine block. Make sure what ever you use to clean the surfaces dosn't gouge the metal.
  • Place a coat of RTV (gasket) sealer on the engine block where the pan will meet the rear main cap.
  • Place the new gasket on the pan and push the new oil pan into place. Finger tighten the oil pan mounting bolts to hold it in place. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to 18 ft-lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS! Doing so will cause the gasket to deform and create leaks!

  • Connect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
  • Place the exhaust back into position and replace the transmission crossmember bolts and crossmember with a ratchet and socket.
  • Remove the jack supporting the transmission.
  • Connect the exhaust back to both sides of the manifold, tightening the bolts with a torque wrench to 20 ft-lbs.
  • Attach the oxygen sensor socket to the exhaust pipe with a wrench.

  • Replace the starter motor by installing the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket. Connect the electrical connections to the starter motor that were disconnected during removal.
  • Push the retaining clips on the plastic splash shield into the appropriate retaining clip holes.
  • Replace the front skid plate by replacing the four front skid plate bolts with a ratchet and socket.
  • Fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil. Make sure to check the level on the dipstick to find the exact level when filling.

  • Jun 28, 2012 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

    2 Answers


    This is on a 4L60-E--Automatic Transmission

    This is on a 4L80-E--Automatic Transmission

    michael_cass_183.jpgHope this helps you ??

    Jun 27, 2011 | 1998 Chevrolet Express

    1 Answer

    Need to change the oil! What all do I need to change it?

    Well you'll need a jack, support stands, a drain pan to catch used motor oil, a new oil filter and oil, an oil filter wrench/pliers and a wrench/ratchet & socket to remove drain plug. Any further questions let me know

    Jan 07, 2011 | 2003 GMC Sierra 1500

    1 Answer


    Hi. Here's the procedure on how to change the oil pan.

    Things You'll Need:
    Drain pan
    Crescent wrench
    New oil filter
    Oil filter wrench
    Socket wrench
    Socket set
    Razor knife
    Putty knife
    New oil pan
    Oil pan gasket
    6 qt. of oil
    Clean towel

      Draining the Oil
    1. 1 Locate the oil pan directly underneath the engine. The oil pan will be held on to the bottom of the motor by 16 to 18 bolts. The drain plug is at the bottom of the pan.
    2. 2 Loosen the drain plug with a crescent wrench. Allow all the oil to drain in to the pan. Tighten the drain plug when the oil is through draining.
    3. 3 Unscrew the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Place the oil filter with the waste oil.
    4. 4 Rub new motor oil around the gasket of the new oil filter. Pour 1 qt. of oil in to the filter.
    5. 5 Screw the filter to the filter housing with your hands. Do not wrench-tighten as this will strip the threads and make removal of the filter difficult.
    6. Replacing the Oil Pan
    7. 1 Locate all the bolts holding the oil pan in place. There will be 16 to 18 bolts.
    8. 2 Unscrew all the bolts with a socket wrench. Lower the pan to the ground. If the pan is stubborn, tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen the seal from the gasket.
    9. 3 Scrape clean all the gasket material around the bottom surface of the motor. This will ensure a tight seal with the new oil pan.
    10. 4 Place the new gasket around the new oil pan. Raise the oil pan to the motor and screw in all the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts until all are threaded to the bottom of the motor.
    11. 5 Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench. Ensure that all the bolts are tight.
    12. Adding the New Motor Oil
    13. 1 Open the hood to access the engine compartment. Unscrew the oil filler cap on top of the crankcase. Pull the engine oil dipstick from the tube. Wipe the dipstick clean with a fresh towel.
    14. 2 Pour in 5 qt. of oil in to the engine crank case. Insert the dipstick back in to the tube and pull it back out. Check the oil level against the markings on the dipstick. Fill at 1/2 qt. intervals until the dipstick indicates "Full."
    15. 3 Start the truck and allow it to run for five minutes. Allow the truck to sit for an additional five minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the oil pan.
    16. 4 Check the oil level again. Fill if necessary, but do not overfill.

    Sep 21, 2010 | 1995 Ford F150 Styleside Regular Cab

    1 Answer

    How do I replace the Transmission filter on 96 Olds Bravada?

    Items you will need:
    6 quarts of Dexron III or IV Automatic Transmission Fluid
    Oil Drain Pan
    2 Cans of Brake Cleaner
    1 Roll of Paper Shop Towels
    3/8 inch Ratchet Wrench
    3/8 inch Ratchet Extender
    10mm Ratchet Socket
    9mm Ratchet Socket
    9mm Open and Closed Wrench
    Replacement Automatic Transmission Gasket
    Replacement Automatic Transmission Filter
    Rubber Mallet

    Follows these Instructions, carefully:

    1. Place the vehicle on a level area.
    2. Jack up the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands. Make sure that you raise the vehicle to give you enough clearance to work. It also helps if you have a 'crawler' to lay on. Use of the 'crawler' makes it easier to move about while you are on your back.
    3. The Automatic Transmission Pan is the large pan located directly under the transmission. Lay on the 'crawler' and look at the pan. Inspect it carefully. Use a rag and brake cleaner to clean the area around all the bolts that hold the pan in place. Any dirt that is around the bolts will make it difficult to attempt to remove the bolts. Also, inspect the pan for any gouges or cracks. This would be the best time to decide if you need to replace the entire pan, or not.
    4. Get some cardboard. Draw a rough outline of the pan and show the placement of the bolts. Puncture the cardboard were you drew the bolts. This will be your reference point of where you took the bolts off. This will help you remember where they go. This is important, as you have two special bolts that you will need to deal with. The cardboard also helps you keep track of the bolts so they won't scatter anywhere.
    5. On the back corner, driver-side, of the pan you will notice that there is a black bracket there. This bracket holds the gear select cable. There are two 9mm bolts that hold this bracket against the pan. Use the 9mm Socket to loosen the bolt that is in the corner, but do not remove it. Use the 9mm Wrench to loosen the bolt directly behind the cable. Loosen this one as far as you can. The head of the bolt will push against the cable. Loosen the other 9mm bolt, the one you used the Ratchet on, and loosen that bolt some more, but don't take it out, yet. The bracket should now lower, a bit, and this will give you more room to loosen the other 9mm bolt behind the cable. Once you know you have the bolt removed, then remove the other 9mm with the Ratchet. The bolt that is behind the cable, you will not be able to remove it, just leave it there. It won't fall out. Place the other 9mm bolt into the cardboard holder that you made earlier. Make sure you put it in the same spot in relation to the pan.
    6. Use the 10mm Ratchet Socket, with the extender, and loosen all the bolts. Don't remove them, yet. The bolts may be loose, already. This is due to the vibrations that the transmission encounters because of use. If they are loose, great. This is normal. If they are tight, apply steady pressure to loosen them.
    7. Once you have them all loose, then, starting on the front right, loosen the bolts in that area to the point that they are about ready to come out, but don't take them out. On the passenger side of the pan, loosen those bolts the same way and do the same to the front, toward the engine.
    8. At this point, get your oil pan ready. Position it toward the front right. If the pan hasn't started to separate from the transmission, wait a bit. Start loosening the bolts on the driver side, but don't remove them.
    9. Start to loosen the bolts that are located toward the rear, but don't remove them.

    NOTICE: It is very important that you don't remove all the bolts at once. Here's why: There is more transmission fluid than you think there is. If you were to 'see' the fluid level it goes just above the gasket. This is why you need to loosen the bolts, but don't remove them, in the order I am describing to you. If you were to remove all the bolts at once, the fluid would spill from all four sides, and you don't have an oil pan big enough to cover that area. What you want to do is tilt the pan so that the fluid spills from one of the corners. The best corner to do this is the one toward the front passenger side.

    10. Once you have the bolts loosened, the pan should just come loose. If not, use the Rubber Mallet to and give it a few good taps from both sides. The pan should come loose. Once it does, tilt it toward the direction of the oil pan and let it drain for a few minutes. After it has drained for a bit, start removing the bolts from the front right corner, and work your way back toward the back left corner, all the while keeping the pan at a tilt so that it drains into your oil pan.

    11. When you can't drain the pan anymore, push it back towards the transmission, remove the rest of the bolts and then pull it out. Make sure you put the bolts into that cardboard that you made earlier.

    12. Remove the transmission pan from under the vehicle, and move the oil pan under the exposed area of the transmission. At this point, you can remove the transmission filter. it is the thin flat black item that is hanging under the exposed area of the transmission. Pull it straight down and place it in the oil pan.

    13. Take the transmission pan that you just removed and remove and gasket material from the edge. Use the brake cleaner and a rag. Clean off the old gasket. It should just come off in one piece. You just want to clean off the residual rubber off the gasket. You and use the scrapper, just don't make and deep gouges.

    14. Under the vehicle, clean the edge of the transmission with a rag and brake fluid cleaner. Again, you can use a scrapper, just be careful to not create any gouges. Put the new Transmission Filter on.

    15 Position the Automatic Transmission Gasket on top of the Transmission Pan. Make sure you have it aligned properly.

    16. Place the Transmission pan back under the transmission and place the bolts from the cardboard back into the same spots that you removed them from. Hand tighten all the bolts that you can. The bolts in the rear of the pan you will have to use the 10mm Socket with the extender, but not the Ratchet Wrench, and put those bolts on.

    17. Put the cable bracket back against the pan and put in the 9mm bolt but don't tighten it all the way down. Use the 9mm Wrench to put the bolt that is behind the cable. Get that bolt as far as you can, but don't tighten it. Work the other 9mm bolt with the Ratchet Wrench. Just get it snug, then work the other 9mm with the wrench, again just get it snug. With the 10mm start to tighten the other bolts. Don't go around the pan, but rather when you tighten one, tighten one on the opposite side. Keep doing this till each bolt is tightened. Then tighten the 9mm bolts.

    18. Remove all items from under the vehicle.

    19. Lower the vehicle.

    20. Pour in the Automatic Transmission Fluid through the Transmission Dip Stick opening. Use a funnel.

    21. Start the engine an drive it around for about 10 minutes.

    22. Open the hood and check the Automatic Transmission Fluid. If it needs more, add more to the appropriate level.

    Your done.

    Time: 2 to 4 hours

    Sep 08, 2010 | 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada

    2 Answers

    What size socket needed to change oil on oil pan in a ford windstar 2001 I have tried a 1/2 inch and it is too small what is the next size

    Hello there
    Hey most of the bolts on the pan are of the metric size a 10 or a 12 usually will work on these that is the one thing nobody explains but the pan bolts are metric ok
    best regards michael

    Jul 17, 2010 | 2001 Ford Windstar

    1 Answer

    I have a 2002 jetta. trouble removing oil pan

    Get a flexible head ratchet or an adjustable "snake" attachment. The flexible head ratchet will move in several positions instead of just the 90 degree. That'll help in all those hard to reach places. You might be able to rent one at Autozone, but I would buy one because they really come in handy.

    Jun 29, 2009 | 1994 Volkswagen Jetta

    1 Answer

    Honda accord 1991 oil change

    You are referring to the drain bolt on the oil pan? You can use a crescent wrench. I have a 92 and I can never remember what size the drain bolt is, so I always go under with my trusty adjustable crescent wrench. Let me know if u need more info.

    Nov 11, 2008 | 1992 Honda Accord

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