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as far as the temp of the air blowing...it in direct proportion to engine coolant temp...try a hotter thermostat....as for the faan running continuously that is a seperate problem and sounds like a faulty rheostat or fan switch...rheostat is elect, switch on the fan motor that enables different speeds and may beinternal on your truck. only parts store will know . if it is replace fan motor. if not , test switch and then test rheostat
Fan speed control resistor block is the usual suspect for this. Quite in-expensive $10 - $20 ?
Easy to change, usually. Generally under the passenger side dash mounted in the air flow comming from fan. Maybe 2 - 3 screws on a block with a few wires, looking like it leads into the air cowling. May be behind glove box.
Do not run fan with new resistor out side of the air flow, it may burn out very quickly without the air blowing on it.
A heater blower motor resistor is an electronic device with three or more progressive resistors that allow the heater blower motor to operate at slower speeds.
The highest speed of the heater blower motor
is not controlled by the resistor, so when the resistor fails, the fan
will often work on the highest speed setting, but not the lower speeds.
To resistor is generally located under the dashboard and under the hood, near the blower motor .
The resistor's electrical connector is disconnected, the resistor is
removed and the new resistor is installed. On some vehicles it may be
easily accessible, and on others it may take partial dashboard removal
to replace the resistor. Look under the hood, generally the wiring for the Blower resistor is attached to the wiring to the blower motor itself It's inboard & below the motor, near the accumulator. You can see
it standing beside the passenger fender. it's the off-white connector
behind the L heater hose above the vacuum reservoir & the white
Well it sounds like the blower motor relay is out you might also need a blower motor if it is using to much juice on high speed then the blower motor is probabley about to go out and with the noise you are describing it sounds like a bearing in the blower motor is about to go out so probabley should change the blower motor and the blower motor relay.
The coolant level is right on, no hoses are leaking and the accessory belt is intact. You start the engine, let it idle and make a visual inspection. There's no sign of belt slippage.
If your car is like most, the cooling fan is mounted to its drive pulley via a clutch. Clutch fans operate at different speeds under different conditions to help reduce drain on the engine and to save fuel. When the engine is hot, the clutch fan runs nearly as fast as the engine. When the engine is cold, the fan runs much more slowly.
The fan clutch operation is regulated by a valve that is opened and closed by a thermostatic spring. The valve controls the flow of a viscous silicone fluid between chambers in the clutch assembly. When the engine is cold, the clutch is essentially disengaged, which is why the fan runs at its slowest compared to the engine's speed. As the engine warms up, the air flowing to the fan assembly becomes hotter. The hotter air causes the thermostatic spring to unwind and open the valve. Silicone fluid from the reservoir chamber flows into the main chamber, engaging the clutch, and the fan spins faster (though it's still slightly slower than the engine.
I would check the blower motor resistor. The resistor slows the current going to the blower motor to make the fan run slower for the first three speeds.The high speed runs of full battery voltage.I hope this helps.