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Pull the wires from the blower. Throw 12 volts and a ground to it(red is B+). If it comes on, it is good. Replace the controller. If it was the relay, some sort of blower speed would have happened. There are other wires to check, but you would have to loose other things to go this direction. Like accessory and ignition.
Could be a bad connection at one of the fuses, or a coincidence and has nothing to do with the fuses. It could be the blower motor, resistor, or a connection somewhere.
You would need to check the blower fuse for power with a meter and then the blower motor when it fails to run.
There is a possibility that the fan/ blower is simply not working. It is usually on the same line with other accessories, so if the fuse blew, some other accessories should not be working as well. If this is not the case, either the fan motor is burned out, or the cables leading to it are broken. If you have access to the fan/ blower motor, activate the fan ( can be with a/a On or Off) and check with a voltmeter that the electric motor receives voltage, if it doesn't, the cables are at fault, if it does receive 12V, then the blower motor is burned out.
Well if you are still getting air and it is just not hot it is most likely the heater core, but if it does nothing at all could be your blower motor, blower motor resistor, or blower motor relay, hope this helps! If you need instructions on how to change any of these parts let me know and I will send them!
If you have the automatic system, you will need to retrieve Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)'s. If fuse #3 (7.5A) in the drivers underdash fuse/relay box is good, it could be a poor ground at G401. Try jumping #2 terminal (blue/red wire) at blower motor 2P connector to a good ground. If the motor runs at high speed, with the ignition switch on, the problem could be with the power transistor connection. If the motor doesn't run at all, the problem could be with the relay, the motors, or the related wiring and/or connections. A factory service manual is required for the identification of wires circuits and connectors.
I have the same problem with my MDX. I live in the Bahamas and there are no Acura dealerships here. I had two mechanics look at it and they could not fix the problem, so I took matters into my own hands. After checking for blown fuses I did a self diagnosis on the climate control panel, I got a DTC that related to a fault in the blower motor circuit. I went through the step by step diagnosis of the circuit and found that the blower motor was faulty. Acura's climate control has a couple sensor that monitor the blower speed, if the sensor do not detect that the blower is running they will not allow the compressor to run, in essence the rear blower will run but the system will not cool. You may need to replace the blower. The quickest way to check if the blower is faulty is to pull the connector off the blower, turn the iignition on and the ac system on, You should get battery voltage on the connector. If you have battery voltage at the connector and the fan doesn't run the youv'e solved the problem. If you don't have voltage at the connector with the ignition switch on and the ac system on you problem could be the front blower power transistor. If you need diagrams and how to retrieve self diagnostic DTC contact me: email@example.com
There is a service bulletin for this problem which replaces the blower resistor and connector. Mine had the same problem while on vacation. No fan speed control, and when it did work, the fan would keep running after the vehicle was shut off. Mine is currently in the shop getting the service bulletin installed.