Question about 2000 Chevrolet Silverado

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Transmission removal Can I successfully remove the auto transmission to replace the rear main oil seal with the truck on jack stands and using a transmission jack? It looks like I might not have enough room to work. Please help! Thank you, Chris

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  • Chris LaPierre Jul 10, 2008

    Yeah, not much room to this point I dont need to drag the transmission out from under the truck...but I hope that with my stands at their highest, that I'll still have enough room to work. I figure, with a third floor jack, I can raise the front end just a bit more...but not sure that I want to lift the truck at an angle like that.

  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    3.9 v6 engine 4speed auto transmission



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  • 131 Answers

It wiil be close, but will work

Posted on Jul 10, 2008


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What are the steps in replacing the rear seal in a 1966 ford f-100 with a 352 engine?

I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't have to remove the engine/transmission, split the trans from the engine, remove the TC or clutch/pressure plate, (you should have drained engine oil and auto trans oil before doing this), remove the oil pan, remove the rear most main bearing cap, rotate a new seal into place, replace rear main bearing cap, torque, etc. and reassemble.

Worst case you may have to remove harmonic balancer and front timing chain cover, front seal, release all the connecting rod caps and main bearing caps, remove the crankshaft, replace the rear main seal and reassemble. It's a 1966 should consider replacing the front timing chain with a roller chain as well as rod and main bearing inserts if you have to do all this.

Feb 04, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

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How to replace a rear main seal in a 2001 chevy 2500

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How to replace rear main oil seal on vx commodore 5.7 auto

To replace the rear main oil seal I would recommend changing the whole rear main plate with gasket seal already done.
1.disconnect battery
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Oct 12, 2012 | Holden VT Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Transmission removal

Hi, you will need a jack, jack stand, wrench, ratchet set and pliers to complete this job successfully. You have to start by raising the front and rear of your Saab using the jack and place it on jack stands. The entire Saab should be off the ground.
Then you continue by removing the shift linkage and throttle body from the transmission using the wrench and ratchet set. Use the pliers to loosen the nut securing the vacuum hoses on the transmission and remove the vacuum hose. Remove the speedometer cable using the pliers.
Slide the rear U-joint out of the rear end of the Saab's transmission as you remove it.
You then place the transmission jack under the transmission. Lift up on the transmission slightly to relieve weight. Disconnect the lower bell housing, torque converter bolts and bell housing bolts using the ratchet set and wrench.
You finally remove the transmission mount and cross-member bolts using the ratchet set. Lift the transmission using the jack to remove the cross member. Lower the transmission slowly while pulling it toward the back of the car.

May 30, 2011 | 2003 Saab 9-3

1 Answer

I have a 87 dodge raider at it has a leak on the back of the engine looks like out of the bell housing could it be a sending unit. It is engine oil.

Hi there colterf! Usually if you have engine oil leaking out of the back of the motor/ tranny bellhousing, it means that you have a rear main seal that needs to be replaced. Now the rear main seal is a pretty tricky item for the do it yourself'er if you are un familliar with the components themselves. Here is a rough step by step of what needs to be done.
  1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
  2. Lift vehicle and place securely on stands
  3. Locate and disconnect all electrical wires, cables, hoses and supply lines from the transmission (including the clutch or fork slave)
  4. Remove the driveline
  5. Unbolt and remove the transmission crossmember
  6. Use a transmission jack to steady and support the transmission ( at this time you may want to drain the tranny fluid to reduce weight)
  7. Unbolt and remove the starter assembly
  8. Remove all of the bolt on the bell housing
  9. Double check to make sure that the tranny if free and there are no morecomponents connecting it to the engine/ frame
  10. Lower jack and remove the transmission
  11. Locate the output shaft at the back of the engine (the seal goes around the shaft and between the block)
  12. If your vehicle has a seal retaining clamp unbolt and remove it.
  13. While on step 12 you need to drain and unbolt the engine oil resivoir to drop it down a 1/2" to access the seal and to also make sure no oil gets dumped when you remove the seal.
  14. Once you have the seal clear use a specialized seal puller to remove the old seal ( a medium sized flathead screwdrive may work as well)
  15. Once the old seal is removed check the seat on the block for any contaminates and remove them.
  16. To install, place the new seal on the seat and firmly push it into place. The seal needs to go in EVENLY! Use a specialized seal installation tool to make sure it is in all the way, all the way arround. If the seal is inserted uneavenly it will most likely leak.
The installation of the rest of the components are in the reverse order. For many people this is over their head. If you are unsure of yourself do not attempt and have a professional do it.

I hope that this will help you out!


Mar 31, 2011 | 1987 Dodge Raider

2 Answers

I have 1994 bluebird nissan altima with oil leak in transmission side.What posssible causes of it?

The Rear Main Seal is the main area for an Oil Leak on the Transmission Side. You will need to drop the transmission to remove the old rear main seal and install the new one.

Mar 05, 2011 | 1994 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Rear barring an seal replaced

I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines 85553306.gif
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal 85553307.gif
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines 85553308.gif
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
  3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
  4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
  5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
  6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
  7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
  8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
  9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
  10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

Fluid coming from what looks like tranny. Im 17 yo and have a 66 tbird.

I can relate to your issue as I remember being 17 once. lol You need to be a little more clear on where you see the leak at. Jack the vehicle up and put it on jack stands or those little ramps you drive up on. Get under the vehicle and see if the leak appears to be coming from the front where it connects to the engine, the Transmission pan or the rear where the drive shaft comes out to go the the rear wheels. If it's the rear where the drive shaft connects its a pretty easy fix. If it's leaking around the transmission pan it's a pretty easy fix. If it's the Front near the engine it gets a lot harder because you have to drop the transmission to fix it. the other two can be fixed with the transmission installed. I recommend you get the Haynes Repair manual on your vehicle from the Auto Parts store to guide you through any of these repairs. The rear seal can be repaired by jacking the rear of the vehicle up and dropping the drive shaft then removing the old seal and putting in the new seal. The pan seal can be replaced by draining the transmission, removing the pan putting on the new seal and using silicon sealer, you might as well replace the Transmission filter while your at it, and putting the pan back on. Don't tighten those pan bolts too much or they will strip.

Jul 09, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1997 z71 Transmission removal

  1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
  3. Disconnect the range selector cable from the transmission bracket and from the transmission range select lever. Refer to Shift Cable Replacement .
  4. Remove the rear propeller shaft. Refer to Rear Propeller Shaft in Propeller Shaft.
  5. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  6. Remove the transfer case if equipped. Refer to the appropriate Transfer Case Replacement in Transfer Case:
  7. Transfer Case Replacement (Selectable Four Wheel Drive) . • Transfer Case Replacement (Auto Four Wheel Drive ) . • Transfer Case Replacement (Manual Four Wheel Drive) .
  8. Gasoline Engine--Remove the following components:
  9. 7.1. Two bolts 7.2. Two washers 7.3. One nut 7.4. The transmission to engine brace
  10. Diesel Engine--Remove the following components:
  11. 8.1. Two bolts 8.2. Two washers 8.3. One nut 8.4. The transmission to engine brace
  12. Remove the transmission rear mount.
  13. Remove the frame crossmember.
  14. Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds. Remove the muffler assembly from the exhaust pipe, if required. Refer to Exhaust System.

  15. 102208.gif
  16. For the 5.0L Gasoline Engine: Remove the six bolts securing the converter cover to the transmission.
  17. Remove the starter. Refer to Starter Replacement in Engine Electrical.
  18. For the 4.3L Gasoline Engine: Remove the dust plug at the end of the starter mounting port in order to gain access to the converter bolts.

  19. 102335.gif
  20. For the Diesel Engine and 7.4L/5.7L Engines: Remove the four bolts securing the converter cover to the transmission.
  21. Mark the flywheel and the torque converter alignment.

  22. 102211.gif
  23. Remove the bolts that attach the torque converter to the engine flywheel.

  24. 102339.gif
  25. Remove the transmission vent hose.
  26. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the vehicle speed sensors and from the park neutral position switch.
  27. Remove all vehicle electrical harness wires, harness clips, tubes, and brackets that may interfere with the removal of the transmission.
  28. Remove the fluid fill tube and the fill tube seal from the transmission. Refer to Filler Tube Replacement .
  29. Plug the fluid fill tube opening in the transmission.
  30. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler pipes from the transmission. Refer to the oil cooler pipe quick connect fittings removal procedure in Oil Cooler Hose/Pipe Replacement .
  31. Plug the transmission oil cooler pipe connectors in the transmission case.
  32. Install the J 21366 in order to keep the torque converter from sliding off of the transmission turbine shaft.
  33. Support the engine with a suitable jack stand before removing the transmission from the engine.

  34. 102341.gif
  35. 5.0L and 5.7L Gasoline Engine: Remove the studs and bolts securing the transmission to the engine.

  36. 102343.gif
  37. 4.3L Gasoline Engine: Remove the studs and bolts securing the transmission to the engine.
  38. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine.
  39. Lower the transmission using the transmission jack.
  40. Flush the transmission oil cooler and the pipes whenever you remove the transmission for overhaul, or replacement of the torque converter, the pump, or the transmission case. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing .
  41. Clean the transmission case using a solvent dampened cloth. Do not allow solvent to enter the transmission.
  42. Air dry the transmission.
  43. Clean all hardware and the flywheel cover using solvent. Air dry all the parts.
  44. Inspect all the components for wear and damage.
  45. Inspect all the seals and the fittings for signs of wear.
  46. Inspect the torque converter for stripped or broken weld nuts.
  47. Inspect the transmission case for cracks.

Jul 06, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Transmission seal is leaking. It appears

To replace the front seal, it's a bit involved and you'll need the proper equipment and tools: Floor jack, transmission floor jack, jack stands to get the truck elevated enough to pull the tranny.
IF it's an automatic, you'll have to take the bellhousing loose from the motor, driveshaft(s) out, remove tranny and torque converter, all lines, linkages, drain oil.
If you don't have much mechanical experience, you may want to have someone else tackle it for you. It's doable, but it's a bit of work.
If you're going to attempt the repair, I would recommend purchasing a repair manual such as a Haynes, or possibly a CD service manual. The step by step instrucitons would get you through the job, plus you'd have access to oil and torque specs to do the job correctly.
ps: if this is the REAR seal, it's a simple job of dropping the driveshaft and replacing the seal.

Jun 29, 2009 | 1991 Ford Ranger Supercab

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