Question about 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

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What is the part called that controlls the head lights? It is on left side of steering wheel and pulls out and pushes back in. How do i replace this part?

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You mean the dimmer switch? You have to drop the steering column most of the time and then take off the trim. You best bet is to go to Register for free and then put this vehicle in as your car. Then you have access to all of the online repair manuals for this car. And get is all free.

Posted on Jan 04, 2011

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Indicator switch

Posted on Jan 04, 2011


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Service power steering alert/dts code c0450 on 08 CTS. Please continue to read-it gets interesting!

You need a dealer, you have wasted enough time and money and not repaired the fault.

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Turn signal switch repair

The steering column wheel has 2 pins pushed into the back side of it and as you turn the steering wheel making a turn, the pins slide over the humps of the blinker signal. As you return the wheel back to center to drive straight, these pins then hit the humps in the turn signal and push the turn signal back to the original position. It sounds like one of these pins fell out or broke off. You need to pull steering wheel and check to see if these pins are still inserted on the back side of the steering wheel.

Sep 29, 2013 | Mitsubishi Montero Sport Cars & Trucks

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Several of the lights for the radio/cruise control buttons on the steering wheel of my 2005 Tahoe are out. Also the rear overhead bar breaklight is out and one of the lights for the defroster button is...

The lighted control switches (about $30/ea retail) on the steering wheel of the 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT (Crew Cab) come out the front, and can be pulled out with pliers or pried out with a very small flat blade screwdriver. However, you CANNOT put them back in without removing the steering wheel, as the wiring harness does not have enough slack to allow you to plug the new switches back in. You can have your local Chevy dealer do the work for probably around $100.00 labor, or you can do it yourself in about 30 minutes or so. Here's how, if you're semi-mechanically inclined.

Tackle this at your own risk, if you're not comfortable doing it, then have a certified mechanic or dealer do it for you! Your setup/assembly may differ from mine, and if so, you'll need to adjust your approach based upon your vehicle. This is what I found as I did mine.

DANGER! First and MOST IMPORTANT, you MUST take the fuse out for the Air Bag. Under the hood, in the fuse panel/box, you will find a 15amp fuse for the Air Bag, clearly labeled on the diagram under the lid of the cover. Simply pull it out and set it aside before you start. If you are not certain which one, then unhook the battery before you start. You DO NOT want to have an "accident" with the Air Bag with tools in your hands! Once you have the fuse removed (or the battery disconnected)...

REMOVE THE AIR BAG assembly from the steering wheel. On each side of the housing behind (but on) the steering wheel housing, you will find two small holes. One is on the left; one is on the right near/behind/below the ignition key housing. Using a small Allen Wrench (or small blunt object) about 2 to 3 inches long, push it into the hole on the right and press straight in, while gently lifting (or pulling) on the Air Bag housing [The Air Bag housing is the same thing you press for the horn]. You will feel it pop loose (on the right side), but it won't move much. While holding the Air Bag assembly out on the right side, move the Allen Wrench into the hole on the left side and press in. The Air Bag assembly will pop loose completely and you can then GENTLY pull it forward. The two plugs with wires on the back side of the Air Bag assembly can be removed by gently squeezing the clips with your fingers and pulling out. It should take very little effort. They are color coded (pink and white) so you'll know which one goes where when you are ready to put them back. Gently place the Air Bag assembly face up in a safe, dry place, away from anything! Next...

REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL from the column. Sounds scary, but it's really simple. You can rent/use a steering wheel puller if you like, but I simply pulled mine off the spindle with some firm, controlled effort. Using a 13/16" socket with an extension, make a mental note of where the notch/mark is on the nut, so you can return it to its original position. Also, ensure the steering wheel (and wheels/tires) are straight forward, so when you put it back, it's level when you drive. Now, using the socket, loosen (but do not remove) the center nut. Count the number of full turns you use as you remove it. Leave it on just enough so when you pull the steering wheel loose, it won't fly off in your hands and break the wires. Gently (but firmly) with your hands at 3:00 and 9:00 on the wheel, pull and rock the steering wheel. Then do the same with your hands at 12:00 and 6:00. If you're not comfortable doing it this way, use a steering wheel puller. You can rent one from a local auto parts store for probably less than $20.00. When it is pulled loose, you can then finish removing the center nut (count the full turns). FIRST, you'll need to unplug and pull out the white plug with the two red wires. It simply pulls out. Pull gently on the wires (they are spring loaded) and pull the plug out. Also, unplug the black wiring harness that's clipped together. Then, remove the steering wheel and GENTLY guide the wires through the hole so as not to damage them. Especially the Air Bag connectors! Next...

REPLACE THE CONTROLS/SWITCHES by freeing up some slack on the wiring harness. Turn the steering wheel over and with a Torx head screwdriver, remove the two black screws holding the housing on. With the housing removed, you can push (with the help of a small screwdriver) the rubber plug that holds the black wiring harness clip to the base. Just push it through. Manually work with the wires now so you have plenty of slack to pull the old Control Switches out and plug the new ones in. The wires/harness are placed around little bumps/guides to help hold them in place, so take a mental note of how they are routed so you can put them back like they are and not damage them upon reinstallation. Using a small screwdriver or needle nose pliers (I used a set of flat ended nock pliers), remove the Control Switches (they pull out the front) and disconnect the wires/plugs. Plug in your new Control Switches and then push them back down into the steering wheel slots while guiding the wires as necessary from the back. Turn the steering wheel back over and put/route the wires back where they go, and then turn it back over and snap the rubber plug back into place to hold the black wiring harness in place. You are now ready to put it all back together. Really easy so far, huh? Next...

REINSTALL THE STEERING WHEEL. Put the housing back on the back of the steering wheel with the two Torx head screws. Then put the steering wheel back on. GENTLY route the plugs back through the holes as before, ensure the steering wheel is straight up and down, and push it firmly back on the spindle. Plug the black wiring harness clips back together and push the white plug back into its place. It snaps in with the little notches facing north and south (and least on my truck). Put the steering wheel column nut back on and tighten it back down, ensuring you align the notch/mark on the nut back where it was before using the same number of full turns it took to take it off. Don't over or under tighten! Next...

TEST THE NEW CONTROLS. Before you start messing around with the Air Bag, this is a good point to check your work. (You may need to reconnect your battery here if you disconnected it to start). Put the key in and using your controls (like the running/fog light button), ensure the new switch/control buttons light up. Also check and ensure all of the controls/buttons properly work everything (radio, trip meter, vehicle settings, OnStar, etc..) as before. If you didn't damage the wiring harness and have everything plugged back in well, it all should work as before. If something does not work, double check your work here as necessary until you get it right. Once everything in working...

REPLACE THE AIR BAG. First, disconnect the Battery again if you have reconnected it to test your work. Gently take the Air Bag Assembly and plug the wires/clips back in (gently) into their original (color coded) holes on the back of the Air Bag. Then align the metal posts with the holes in the steering wheel and press it back into place. It gently snaps in with ease. Next...

Replace the Air Bag 15amp fuse and put the fuse box cover back into place (if you removed it), or reconnect your battery. Close the hood and test the horn. Put your tools away. You are done! Simple huh?

May 14, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Steering wheel wabbles at low speed and left side sounds like wheel is wableing

jack up the the left side push and pull on the tire to see if it has play watch to see if it is in the wheel bearing or control arm or ball joints check for play in all of the linkage

Feb 19, 2010 | 1994 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Honda CR-V 1999: how to access front park lamp to change

Don't call me Surely (little joke there) but indeed, the fender/mud guard have to be dealt with. Here's the procedure:
1. If you are changing the bulb on the driver's side, start the engine, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and turn off the engine. If you are changing the bulb on the passenger's side, turn the steering wheel to the left.
2. Use a flat-tip screwdriver to remove the fastener from the inner fender.
3. Pull the inner fender cover back.
4. Remove the socket from the headlight assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.
5. To remove the turn signal/side marker bulb, push it in slightly and turn it counterclockwise. To remove the parking light bulb, pull it straight out of its socket.
6. Install the new bulb in the socket.
7. Insert the socket back into the headlight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.
8. Test the lights to make sure the new bulb is working.
9. Put the inner fender cover in place. Install the fastener and push on the center until it locks (the center is flush with the head).
Hope this helps you deal with it.

Dec 06, 2009 | 1998 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

How do i get the ignition switch off my 1997 vw golf i took off the safety boly steering wheel and all plug conectors just left with shaft and spring

This is a how-to from

You WILL need the following,
10MM wrench
13MM wrench and socket or another wrench.
a eyeglasses phillips head screwdriver. (very small)
a regular size phillips head screwdriver
new ignition switch
vice grips (may not need them)
1. lock the steering wheel, and make note where it was just incase.
2. disconnect the battery with 10mm wrench.
3. remove the plastic around/behind the steering wheel by the two screws underneath using a phillips head screw driver.
4. now go under the dash, and remove the plastic peices covering up the steering wheel axel. and unscrew the bolt using a 13MM wrench&socket. Its a "U" joint.
5. Unplug everything behind the wheel including the ignition and the airbag.
6. using a vice grip, or your fingers if it is loose, to unscrew a gold bolt on the left side of the steering wheel column, its right behind the steering wheel on left underside.
7. Gently pull out the steering wheel, and the whole thing, including the axel, and steering wheel will comeout, be careful the end of it is greasy.
8. now with a small screwdriver (phillips), eyeglasses size is what i used, remove the screw where the ignition switch is, its a pretty long screw so it may take some time and it the switch wont come out until its fully unscrewed.
9. replace everything opposite of how it was took out.
Note- when your putting the steering wheel axel back, be sure to put back the large spring and align the axel correctly.

Oct 23, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Golf

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Passanger side brake light issue

Yes! It is a faulty turn signal assembly. You can try actuating the hazards several times, to try cleaning the contacts but if there is no change then replace it. In case you want to know, the wires from the brake switch, go up into the turn-signal assembly then out to the tail-lights. To fix it, disconnect the battery, you will need some tools. A steering wheel puller, a steering shaft compression tool, 1/2" drive ratchet, metric sockets, cir-clip pliers, a couple of small picks, #2 philips head screwdriver, and some torque-head screwdrivers. carefully pull off the horn cover( may have a couple of scews holding it from the other side), unplug the horn wire (push and twist), remove the cir-clip, remove the nut, mark the area where the steering wheel and shaft meet (use white-out), press off the steering wheel, Compess the shaft, remove the retaining clip(with the picks), remove horn spinner base, remove turn-signal assembly. I need to step back alittle bit, the plug, to the turn-signal, is half-way down the steering column, to unplug it you need to remove the lower dash panel, the bolts holding the column up inplace. The plug is in clear sight but the wiring harness is inside a plastic sheath, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Jun 17, 2009 | 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

2 Answers

Need to replace the cruise control in 1998 C230 Mercedes

you need a steering wheel puller . buy it at auto parts stores or snap on. you need a haynes repair manual. it helps and save you time and money.

Apr 06, 2009 | 1996 Mercedes-Benz E-Class

1 Answer


I finally replaced the Backlights, using a guide from a person at
who wrote:

(i've got an 04 limited. i just soldered in new bulbs for the lighting controls panel (5 #272-1092) and the digital HVAC panel (1 #272-1092 and 5 #272-1154). steering wheel control bulbs are next. )

Just buying a cheap Used one may be the best, if you are not good with dis-assembly and soldering small electric bulbs
Depending on the style you can get a Used One from an online junkyard for 25-50 USD
Check LKQonline out..

The most difficult part is getting the Climate Control Module out of the dash, to make the soldering new bulbs repair. The wood-grain Bezel needs to come off, BE CAREFULL, its long and flexible and can crack easy if the wrong pressure is applied or its cold outside or cold in the car cab. Its held in the dash with GM friction clips ( pain in the %$#) and 2 Phillpis screws behing Glove Box door. I worked the pull- pressure from the A/C vent on Right, left-ward to the center, and from Steering Column right-ward toward the center. Once the Bezel is removed, the Climate Control Module is seen, with 4 push-tabs on each corner. BE CAREFULL pushing in the tabs....I broke off one as in pushed too hard. Pry out Right side while pushing 2 right-side tabs gently together. Repeat for the Left Side, while pushing 2 left-side tabs together gently. The Climate Control Module should pop out. Use a 3/8inch Nut Driver to remove the headless screws that hold the Climate Control Module PushButton plate to the box. This will expose the Printed Circuit Board for solder replacement of the Bulbs.

Nov 25, 2008 | 2000 Buick LeSabre

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