I have a 98 transport that is giving me problems regarding fuel supply. i have had three fuel pumps installed and now when i wait for a day or two, it will start ok. could this be an electrical problem stemming from connections?
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Re: fuel pump problems
Just a couple of guesses-
- Fuel pressure regulator - Located (normally) at one end of the fuel rail and controlled by a vacuum line which could be cracked or disintegrated inside.
- A shock sensor - One of the cars in our family, a Ford Escort, had a mechanical/electrical sensor in the trunk and concealed behind carpeting if I remember right.
Traveling over our rough private easement at speed would cause this thing to trip and it had to be manually reset to re-enable voltage to the fuel pump.
This thing was not well documented and a mechanic clued us in.
Since this ****** has a switch built-in, the switch could well fail intermittently causing the kind of problem you are having.
Also some theft prevention systems turn off the fuel pump to disable the vehicle; these would also have switches in them carrying the current for the fuel pump.
It would be helpful if you had a manual on your ride (Haynes or Chiltons) so you could study the electrical systems to see if there are these items present.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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? 4:55 www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRq2ohp8A7o Apr 20, 2012 - Uploaded by Airtex Pumps
2001-98 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA 262 (4.3L) ... is committed to providing the most up-to-date, in-depth fuel pump replacementinformation that ...
Any work done recently? Did you buy gas just before this started happening? Fuel filter ever replaced? Fuel pump? Both clogged fuel filter and weak fuel pump will exhibit this kind of behavior, but you could also have gotten some bad gas. There are other possibilities, but what you described points more to a fuel supply or fuel quality problem, which is most commonly one of those three things.
Fuel Pump REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ES300 CAUTION Fuel injection systems remain under pressure even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
With the ignition switch in the LOCK position, disconnect the negative battery terminal. If equipped with an air bag system, wait at least 90 seconds or longer before performing any other work.
Remove the rear seat cushion.
Disconnect the fuel pump connector.
CAUTION The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system must be disarmed before removing the fuel pump. Failure to do so may cause accidental deployment of the air bag, resulting in unnecessary SIR system repairs and/or personal injury.
Remove the floor service hole cover.
NOTE: Do not lift the fuel pump assembly up using the wire harness.
Remove the fuel filler cap. Disconnect the fuel outlet pipe and the return hose from the pump bracket.
Remove the 8 screws and lift out the pump/bracket assembly with gasket.
Remove the fuel pump lead wire.
Pull the lower end of the pump off of the bracket.
Disconnect the fuel hose from the pump and remove the pump.
Remove the rubber cushion from the pump.
Install the filter and rubber cushion on the new pump and install the pump on the bracket.
Connect the fuel hose and the wire connector on the pump.
Using a new gasket, install the pump and tighten the eight screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Connect the fuel pipe and return hose to the pump and tighten the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
Connect the wire, install the service cover and replace the rear seat.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 1: Fuel pump assembly - ES300
the center fitting on the fuel pump is for the evap hose. It will have a different connector than the two fuel hoses.
The fuel pressure hose is the larger diameter. The return line is the smaller diameter. If you look carefully at the two outside fittings on the fuel pump module you will notice they are two different sizes. The return line will only fit on the smaller diameter fitting.
Ok so there is residual pressure in the pump to give to crank but no run.
Pump is your problem. The fuel pump has to prime the injectors ( residual pressure) and then continune to supply fuel to run the vehicle( Pump Pressure) .Pressure regulator increases or decreases pressure depending upon the load and temp conditions.The only this that is missing is the relay, but thats not your problem cause if it was the vehicle would not crank.
* Starter works OK.
* Fuel pump relay and the ASD relay are not energized when switch is
in the "ON" position.
* Fuel Pump works OK when I jump the relay.
* No indication of the fuel quantity gauge.
* No indication on the Voltmeter Gauge.
Update--after getting car back from 3rd shop, it ran flawlessly for about a week or ten days. Then started doing it again. I decided to do some more troubleshooting myself. While trying to track down the components of the fuel pump electrical circuit, I did quite a bit of wire wiggling at the firewall and inside behind the glove box (the location of the fuel pump relay on this car). I had a buddy turn key to "on" while listening for the fuel pump relay to click. When he did, the fuel pump ran 2-3 seconds just like its supposed to. The car started right up, and has ran since---two weeks now. My problem definitely now looks like a short in the wiring somewhere in the fuel pump circuitry. Next time it does it, I'll try to further narrow down the area of the problem. I found this one basically by accident.