Question about 1998 GMC Sierra
Posted by Anonymous on
Is this 4wd or 2wd? The 4wd will just require the removal of the caliper it has a full floating rotor.If you are replacing the rotor and the rotor is stuck on you can use a ball peen hammer and hit the face of the rotor but only do this if replacing it and be sure to wear eye protection.
The 2wd will require you to remove the caliper then the centercap in the middle of the rotor.There you will see a cotterpin that needs removed.Once cotterpin is removed there will be a nut that needs to be unthreaded.Once the nut is removed the rotor will slide right off.
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
When you remove the clipers you have to get very agressive with them to pry them loose. When installing the new pads, you first must compress the hydraulic cylinder that compresses the brakes when you step on the pedal by using a C clamp to squeeze the round-shaped cylinder back as far as it will go. You may experience some overflow from your brake master cylinder (refill container on the top aft of your enginee compartment) because you are removing volume from the system by compressing the cylinder. Replace the pads, then when you rassemble it will easilly fit over the rotors. Otherwise it will not go back together. Also, watch out when reinstalling the pins (the ones that hold the calipers on). They can be cross-threaded easily and you don't want that to happen. You'll know you have them cross-threaded if you have to tighten them too hard. STOP! and back them out and look carefully at the angle of the pins as you thread them in. They should not be too hard to turn. It is also a good idea to lubricate the caliper pins with grease made especially for this purpose (check with your parts store). DO NOT get grease on the surface of the pads or rotors. Brake parts cleaner spray is handy to have to clean eveything after it is assembled together. Tighten all bolts and pins A LOT! They can come out if you don't tighten them pretty well. Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
Hello, one "trick" is to grab a big hammer and hit the face of the rotor (the part that goes on the hub between the lug studs, NOT the brake pads ride on) several times. A lot of the vehicles I have done this with you really have to whack between the lugs pretty hard and a lot of times. Just make sure you don't hit the lug studs.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Hole with notches is likely a torks screw Looks like an allan key hole with extra splines? they make a bit that fits in there. It's on the flat surface where the wheel mounts right?
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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An impact driver, No. 3 phillips screwdriver bit, and a hammer may be needed to remove the retaining screw. It is fairly easy to destroy the screw slots using an ordinary phillips screwdriver to remove the tightly driven screw (see photo).
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