Question about Jeep Liberty

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I have an 02 Liberty with 100,000 miles. It has trouble starting, runs rough, & check engine light is on. I've changed the plugs, coil packs, cam & crank sensors & injectors. I am now at a loss. Any suggestions??

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  • mdcliff Jan 03, 2011

    Have you had it scanned to find out what the DTC is causing the check engine light to illuminate?

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  • 32 Answers

Oxygen sensor MAP sensor throttle position sensor have codes read lot of places will diagnoise check engine light get the codes they pull and come back for further guidance here

Posted on Jan 03, 2011

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2003 Pontiac Vibe - 4 Cyl. 150k miles. Ignition coils keep going bad - every 4-6k miles. Coil 1 has been replaced 4 times, Coil 3 once. Coil 4 twice in the past year (20k miles). All spark plugs


Install new spark plugs, 4 new coils & replace the oxygen sensors

O2 Sensors are only good for 100,000 miles, then slow
down or quite

No idea why the coils do not last 5 or 6 years

Cylinder #1 is always at the front on a 4 cyl

Go to Rock Auto --Buy Wells Coils,NGK Double
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Those parts are expensive because you have a Totota
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My 1995 mitsu eclipse is sputtering and has trouble staying on when I turn it on for the first time in more than 5 hrs. It also stalls and throws me an oil light. I've changed the spark plugs (which...


Coil battery circuit may be loose or corroded causing the recurring code/light . Which code number are you getting ? Have you cleaned the throttle body and IAC as that can cause idle issues .

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I have a 1994 Firebird 3.4 that runs rough intermittently when warm.


I can't imagine anything being affected by changing the oil other than the valves in the heads. I assume you have good oil pressure hot or cold. I suppose you could be moving a wiring harness around when you take the oil filter off.
It would depend on if the rough running is mechanical or fuel or ignition related to say what to check first. I would have to figure out which area is affected first.
Something like a sensor or a dead miss on one cylinder could turn the check engine light on, but most fuel and mechanical issues will not do it on a car of that year.
If one of the coils was failing when the engine is hot, changing the oil should have no effect.

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Your cat should last quite a while now it is replaced. I recommend testing coil packs and module. Change plugs and wires and double check your vacuum hoses.

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If you dont have the proper spark due to a bad coil pack you will not get all the gas burned properly and your manifold will glow red.I would start with the coil pack.!

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I think the auto-lite plugs are probably your problem. yes it sounds like mis-firing. That's one of the few times the check engine light flashes. I'd suggest changing the plugs to a NGK plug, that's the ONLY plug we use in our Audi's and VW's (work at a VW/Audi shop). Try that, and it should take care of the rough running, if not, it will probably need coils too.

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The reason the check engine light is flashing instead of on steady is because it is missing bad and the car companies did this to tell you to stop the car as soon as possible to prevent damage. That is the only time the light will flash off and on instead of being on steady.
The cause is a little harder to diagnose. It could be a fouled spark plug, a bad plug wire, an injector, stopped up fuel filter. I can't remember if that car has the distributer or the coil packs but you could have a problem there. If you have never changed the spark plugs or fuel filter, it is well over a hundred thousand miles to do so now. They say to change them at one hundred thousand but 50 to 75 thousand is better and you will get better mileage. The fuel filter needs to be changed every 20 thousand miles now days because of all the cheap gas we have to put in the cars.
This is for mechanics or technicians. If no one out there believes me about the mileage on the fuel filter, then take the filter off and see what comes out the back. Looks like black water to me.

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