Question about 1996 Chevrolet C/K 2500

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1997 gm 2500 with 350 vortek will not fire I have fuel new fuel pump and coil and ignition module and ignition switch and tested computer it is ok has a new oil pump fuel pressure shut off switch new distributor new alternater and still no fire

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  • mdcliff Jan 02, 2011

    You say "still no fire"....by this, do you mean it won't start, or you don't even have a spark?

    If you have a spark, your issue is most likely fuel related. You didn't mention changing the fuel filter. Try checking the cranking fuel pump pressure. A low (or no ) reading could indicate a clogged fuel filter. It could also mean no current to the fuel pump.

    Have you tried cycling the key from off to on (not start, just on) to see if you can hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds? Try this cycling effort 6 or 7 times, then go ahead and try to start. If it starts, I'd lay good money on the fuel filter.

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Did your old igniton switch require a key with a "chip" or resistor in it as part of the security system?

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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94 gmc c1500 4.3 no start, engine turns over, got gas but don't have. everything in thge ignition is new, got power at the coil


Place a spark plug tester in your number #1 ignition lead and confirm spark.- No spark = possible ignition module failure if spark from coil is present.

Test the fuel line pressure for 12 PSI.for throttle body fuel injection systems on 1987 to 1995 - If reading is low replace fuel pump. If reading is zero lbs check relay.

Compression test for acceptable compression.

If you have spark, fuel and compression, static time the engine and try again to start the vehicle.

PS: If your vehicle is a standard shift you have a clutch safety switch and a column mounted ignition switch that should also be considered.

Here is some more info that may help:


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DTC P1351 Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage
The enhanced ignition system uses the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor in order to provide a timing input to the control module. Ignition control (IC) spark timing for each cylinder is based on this input. The control module provides the ignition timing signal to the ignition control module (ICM) to control the ignition coil. Each timing pulse detected by the ICM allows it to energize the ignition coil. A large secondary ignition voltage is induced in the secondary coil by the primary coil. This high voltage is switched to the correct spark plug by the distributor.
This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will set if the VCM- (vehicle control module ) detects an unusually high voltage on the ignition timing signal circuit.
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Intermittent test -- If the connections and the harness check OK, monitor a digital voltmeter connected between VCM terminal C3 pin 9 and C4 pin 18 while moving related connectors and wiring harness. If the failure is induced, the voltage reading will change. This may help to isolate the location of the malfunction.
An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions:
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Thoroughly check any circuitry that is suspected of causing the intermittent complaint. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
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94 chevy 1500 4.3 no spark no fuel


Sounds like you replaced alot of parts for nothing.
The pickup coil in the distributor "fires" the module which grounds the coil and the injectors.
Those components would need to be tested. The coil fires the plugs when the ground is removed by the module or the key switch.

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If you do have fuel pressure, but there is no fuel getting into the cylinders to run the engine, then the engine does not have an injector signal or pulse to open the fuel injectors.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

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