Question about 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

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You can pry the exhaust to the side just a little and it will fall out but not too much

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Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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Not too hard if it is a southern car, if it's from the north, a bit more effort might be needed because the nuts on the exhaust rust. If you are working on the ground, get it up high on ramps or jack stands. Always put another support under the car. Leave the floor jack in place and use jack stands, slide something, like the front tires, under the car, too. NEVER work under a car without a backup support. Cars can, and do, fall off jack stands.
1st you have to remove the exhaust "A" pipe. 3 nuts, 14mm on each exhaust manifold need to come off. ALWAYS spray a penetrating lube, like WD40, on any exhaust nuts before loosening, and before installing them. You need a really good socket, extension and a breaker bar, make sure the socket is on the nuts correctly, break them loose without rounding them off. Then two 12mm nuts on the support bracket, and 3 14mm nuts at the outlet of the "A" pipe at the converter. If these last 3 are too rusty, you can unhook the exhaust hangers and move the assembly over. (Leave the back muffler hangers on.) Drain the oil. (I always try and do these jobs when an oil change is due) two 14mm bolts going from the oil pan to the transmission, and a 10mm bolt holding an access plate at the transmission end, remove access plate. Now a bunch of 10mm bolts and nut holding the oil pan in place. You might have to pry the pan loose, a big drift works good. There are a couple of spots to hook onto and pry.

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You have to remove the glove box to get to it. First disengage the string/pulley from the right side of the glove box (just push the tab thru the hole), then using a long screwdriver, pry the plastic catchs on each side of the glove box so they will clear the dash plastic. Now the glove box will just hang loose, or fall down. The filter is not the white piece of fabric attached to the glove box, this is just noise baffle. To get the filter out, press the tab with the little arrow on the left side of the black cover. Now you can see the cabin filter. Don't buy one from Lincoln for $40, Discount Auto Parts has them for about $16.

Good Luck. Email me at rswhandy@hotmail.com if you have any problems.

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It easy ! You need a philips2_bing.gif and flat screw driver,and a needle nose pliar.
Use flat screw driver and pry out the two or three dust covers for the arm rest screws then use philips and remove the screws. Next use the flat screw driver and pry out the black plastic mirror cover from the inside of the door. Pry out the switch with the flat screw driver and disconnect it. On the side of the door panel just above the striker/loch mechanism is this plastic push pull type of a hold in screw. Use flat screw driver to get it to move a little then pull it out with the needle nose. Depending on which door your doing if you have a map folder in the door there are two more screw to remove on the bottom of the door.
Now the inside door handle is tricky it comes out in TWO pieces. Use philips and get the only hold down screw you see out.( you may have to pry out a little screw cover first) Now the inside door handle cover is removed by placeing the flat screw driver on the rear of the outside of the cover top and on the outside rear bottom to release the tangs that are holding it onto the panel.Pry it out lightly you may have to place the screw driver over the top of the door release button and pry that way. Don't loose your cool its a pain but it will fall out. Once its removed unhook the panel.

Next lift the plastic cover and remove the door handle hooks and levers . Basically use common sense this is easy stuff. There may be two screws from inside of door panel that keep handle in place . Then work handle loose from outside and inside . reverse for installation.

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Dear Stuck Shaft Sufferer.....I've read your concern and i have the solution for you.There is what they call cir clips on the inside of the axle shafts...these little clips are a failsafe for the axle falling out by itself.It's a little extra addon most auto manufacturees did to insure these halfshafts stay in frimly.....The easiest and best way to remove these is with a slightly bent pry bar....preferbly at least two feet long.you're gonna want to have the car up a little bit higher in the air so you can manuever around under it......crawl under there....bring a drain tray too cuz you might loose a little bit of fluid......get undr there and take your prybar and wedge it right between the transmission and the knuckle part of the halfshaft. It's gonna require a couple powerful short bursts....but it will make a little (click) when the cclip disengages from the trans itself....now duck and watch out for fluid........that's all there is to it...p.s. make sure the outer part of the halfshaft is free and clear from hitting anything so you don't get bound up when you're tryin to release it........if ya need anything else...get back to me.... I HOPE I HELPED!!!

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I need to remove the door panel on my 2004 Avalanche


There are plastic clips that hold the door panel inplace .. First look for any hidden screws near the door handle . there might be a little plastic cover that you need to remove with a small screw driver to find the screws.. look under the handle also to see if there are any hidden screws . next take a flat blade screw driver and start at the bottom corner and try gently prying the door panel off . try to stay close to the plastic clips not to damage them by prying real hard .. once you have snapped them loose all the way around .. lift up on the door panel to remove it from around the window lip and out it should come.. holler if you have any problems.. usually The mirrors on the chevys are up above the panel and there is a triangle plastic cover over it on the inside .. it will pry off also gently and there are 3 nuts there that need to be removed .. use caution these fall behind the door panel ... holler if you need more. Jerry

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time to get out some agression!

This will be a messy and rusty job. you'll need a big heavy hammer and a couple of pry bars to get the drums off.
before you proceed with taking your frustrations out on rusty drums, scrape as much as the crud off of the backing plate as possible, hopefully you'll find a oval rubber plug or two in the plate.
pull out the plugs and look through them with a light to see if you can see a little gear inside. you can use a small pry bar to turn the gear, which when turned the right way, will let the drum spin freely without any rubbing on the shoes. if no plug...the drums come off with just a bit more effort, either way the process is the same from here on out:

start by using the big hammer and hitting the face of the drum (where the wheel mates to it) hit the outside edge of it all the way around with a bunch of force. don't worry about damage, it's very hard to hurt the originals anyway. you should have a whole bunch of dirt and soot falling to the ground if you're doing it right.

Next, go to the back side of the drum and criss crossing with every few hits to jar one side and then another, thry to knock the drum off the axle until you can get the pry bars between the drum and the backing plate. sometimes the drum will come off just from using the hammer.

oce you can get the pry bars in, just use them as levers to "walk" the drum off.

once they come off, replace any broken springs, bad shoes, and wheel cylinders that are leaking. ( check the wheel cylinders by pulling back the rubber seals at each end of the cylinder, if there is fluid in the seals, the wheel cylinders are leaking and should be replaced.)

after everything looks good, turn the little gear a little bit at a time, and try to put the new drum on. once the new drum slides one the shoes, (it should take a little effort to get them on) spin them a few times and listen for a steady drag of the shoes rubbing. you should be able to spin them with little effort, and they should slow down fairly quickly. if they stop right when you let go, they're a bit tight (loosen the adjuster) if they keep spinning and spinning with little drag, they're too loose (tighten the adjuster)

hope the job goes well!
-shane

Jan 24, 2009 | 1986 Ford Ranger 2WD

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