Question about Honda Accord

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I replaced clutch master cylinder and clutch release cylinder,bleeding system still don't have clutch pressure. Clutch pedal doesn't have pressure.

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If you can press the clutch fork ( the part that the release cylinder pushes) in by hand then your clutch has failed and needs to be changed. If not then I suspect there is still air in the system. Most master cylinder replacements require a "bench bleed" before installation. this involves putting it in a vise, filling with fluid and attaching a hose that runs the fluid back into the resevoir. Then you press the plunger and release slowly until all the air is expelled. This can take quite a few times.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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How do i bleed the master cylinder on an 02 lancer


Check the slave cylinder on the transmission for leaks, and replace if it is. Bleeding:
1. put fluid in the master reservoir.
2. move the slave actuator shaft so the clutch release lever has not slack.
3. Have someone press the clutch pedal, and crack the slave bleed nipple to let out the air.

Once the slave moves the release lever, you'll be able to decide if the clutch is OK or not.

Oct 09, 2012 | 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

2 Answers

Just put in new clutch in 2001 f150 2wd 4.2 also new slave and master cylinder and pedal safety switch. After bleeding the pedal feels fine but the clutch does not seem to engage as the shifter will not...


what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

May 20, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150

1 Answer

1997 Probe Gt, 5 speed, 2.5 L V-6; 77,750 miles: replaced clutch master cylinder 11/15/2010. Clutch free play okay, pressure to push clutch pedal down- okay (these conditions apply to vehicle after...


THe problem can only really be with the clutch master cylinder. What you describe sounds like the master cylinder is not relieving pressure and this is building up in the salve cylinder, applying pressure to the pressure place and causing the clutch to slip. Can you make the problem go away even temporarily, if you open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder? You say that the free play is correct, but is the master cylinder returning fully to its released position?

Jan 26, 2011 | Ford Probe Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor no preasure filled and bled slave cyl same result


Hi:
If you have bled the system, you are down to either having a bad clutch master cylinder, or a bad clutch slave cylinder. You could eliminate the slave cylinder by removing the line and capping it off, and if you have a firm pressure on the clutch pedal ( don;'t try to push it down, just check for pressure!) then your slave cylinder is bad. If you cap off the line, and bleed the system, and the pedal still has no pressure, then your clutch master cylinder is bad!

Apr 15, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

Clutch needs adjusting or fluid?


they use a hydrolic system wich use fluid if your gears are not grabbing and its slipping no udjucment require because the cluck is bad but if you cant put it in gear when it on then its your hydrolic system

Sep 08, 2009 | 1992 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Clutch pedal stays 2 the floor on a hydralic clutch system on a 2000 camaro v8. clutch master cylinder is new also slave cylinder and clutch and pressure plate


Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

Sep 06, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

Chevy l989 4X4 5 speed manual clutch not working


Almost every time a clutch is replaced in a GM with hydraulic release system that system is replaced as well. You can try, and try, and try again to bleed it, but you will eventually replace the clutch slave and master cylinders. Once the slave is allowed to fully extend, it is then virtually impossible to make it function correctly again.

Jul 08, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor


Its sounds like a bad clutch cylinder or bad slave cylinder or fluid leaking. First check brake fluid level in clutch master , and check for a leak in clutch system. If there are NO leaks, then you either have a bad clutch cylinder or a slave cylinder. Bleed clutch at bleeder screw on slave cylinder and make sure there is pressure from master cylinder. If there is pressure then slave cylinder may be bad replace slave and bleed and that should take care of you problem. If master is bad then replace bleed system ad you should be good. Contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA.

May 16, 2009 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

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