I have a 1996 4wd S-10 blazer LS model that was broken in to and they thrashed the ignition assembly....I tried to attach the pictures showing the damage but the file is too large..Please advise an email address that can handle larger files if available...what parts I need to repair/replace in order to make my truck work again...There is a box under the key/ignition that they ripped wires out of and tried to hotwire.
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Re: Ignition replacement after break-in
Cheaper and much easier to buy a used steering column from a wrecking yard and install it then have a key made for that switch, if this information is helpful please give me a good rating and if I can help more in any way please contact me www.aceautomotive1.com
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Using a test light, and with the ignition key in the "On" or "Run" position check for full battery voltage at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil, and then check for full battery voltage at the wire connector to the distributor for the wire that runs between the (+) positive side of the ignition coil and the distributor. (dis-connect the wire connector from the distributor to test) If full battery voltage is present at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil but not through the ignition coil to the distributor then replace the ignition coil. If full battery voltage is present at both the ignition coil and the distributor then remove the ignition module from the distributor to have it tested and most auto part stores will test it for you for free. The ignition module is what generates the signal that the ECM uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, and be certain that the ignition module is installed into the distributor using a silicone grease or some other die-electric compound to completely cover the metal mounting surface of the ignition module because it is a heat-sink, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it can be damaged. There is also a hall-effect switch inside of that distributor that would be the next suspect if the ignition module tests out alright, and if there is no spark there is a pick-up coil/stator assembly that could be faulty and if that is the case then replace the entire distributor because the distributor will have to be removed and dis-assembled to replace the pick-up coil/stator assembly.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1994-95 Accord NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the ignition switch assembly if you do not have replacement bolts available. These special bolts have break-away heads which shear off when tightened. This is an "anti-theft'' measure used to prevent easy removal of the bolts.
Fig. 2: Shear bolts must be used for reinstallation
Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the SRS system.
Remove the dashboard lower cover/knee bolster.
Remove the steering column covers.
Unplug the ignition switch connector.
Remove the two nuts and two bolts securing the steering column, carefully lower the column assembly.
Use a center punch to mark each of the two shear bolt heads securing the ignition switch assembly to the steering column. Use a 3?16 in. (5mm) drill bit to drill off the heads. Take care not to damage the switch when drilling.
Remove the bolts. Remove the clamp and remove the ignition switch assembly.
Remove the three screws securing the switch and remove the switch.
Make certain the recess of the switch aligns with the tab of the lock housing. Insert the switch and install the retaining screws.
Position the switch assembly on the steering column. Install the new shear bolts; tighten them finger-tight.
Use a wrench or socket of the correct size. Tighten the shear bolts until the heads break off.
Raise the column and install the nuts/bolts. Tighten the nuts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm) and the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. 22 Nm).
Connect the ignition switch wiring harness.
Install the column covers.
Install the dashboard lower cover/knee bolster.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Fig. 3: Be careful not to damage surrounding components when drilling
Fig. 4: The switch is secured by three screws
Ignition module sits in the ignition distributor, remove distributor cap, there will be two elec. harness plugs, the one with two wire's is for the pick up coil, the other one is for the ignition module, just unscrew module out of distributor and install new one.
Most likely the cause of the ignition module burning out is because of the ignition coil, and you should try replacing the ignition coil and the ignition module both together, and be sure to clean out the distributor mounting suface, and be very certain that you do completely cover the metal mounting surface of the ignition module with the silicone grease or die-electric compound. Also be sure that you do not ov er-tighten the ignition module because you could damage it and cause a lot of similar problems.
i would take it in to a dealer or repair shop to have it fixed. It sounds like the ignition switch is broken and needs to be replaced. You can fix it but the problem with that is that it is not very sturdy. One wrong turn and the thing will break again and you will be back at the same point you are now.