Question about 1999 Jeep Cherokee

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99 XJ, front driveshaft, rear set of U-joints. There is slop in the carrier between the joints. Repace it ?

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Buy a can of engine degreaser and spry it on it the let it set for 30 minutes then brush it and clean it. Good luck

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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2 Answers

Loud humming noise


Could be carrier bearing(s), worn gears, or bad driveshaft joints.

Jul 18, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Carrier baring


1) Flat level surface, chock the front tires.

2) Jack the rear up just until the tires clear.
USE jack stands. (DO NOT EVER just depend on a jack)

3) Remove the rear bolts holding the rear U-joint in.
Carefully use a tool to pry one of the U-joint cups, until the U-joint comes loose. DO NOT drop the cups off. Keep one hand wrapped around the cups as you pry the U-joint loose.

When U-joint is removed, suggest use black plastic electrical tape, and tape across the two cups, so they do not drop off.

[GOOD time to see if they are dry, and the U-joint is in good condition. DO NOT loose needle bearings ]

4) Remove the bolts that hold the Carrier Bearing Support to frame.
(Put the nuts back on a few threads of the bolts, after putting them back through the holes, in the Carrier Bearing Support strap. This way you won\'t lose them)

Lay the Support strap, and rubber aside.

5) Slide the driveshaft out of the back of the tranny. (Transmission)
It would be a real good idea to go to an auto parts store first, and rent a plug tool for the back of the tranny, once you remove the driveshaft. Keeps the tranny fluid from leaking out. Manual or automatic. (It is plastic, and a cheap rental)

The rear half-driveshaft slips out of the front one.
BEFORE removing make a mark on the front half-driveshaft, and a matching mark on the rear half-driveshaft. The driveshaft is a Balanced unit. Should be put back together the same way, it was taken apart.

Take the driveshaft with the carrier bearing on it to a shop, so they can press the old one off, and the new one on.

Reverse your steps.

(Owner of 1994 GMC Sonoma 2-wheel drive, extended cab. Civilian mechanic on Army base. Work on ALL wheeled vehicles, and track up to, but not including, Abrams M1A2 tank )

Regards,
joecoolvette

Dec 17, 2012 | 1991 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

99 Z-71 extended cab. Cracking or Clanking when accelerating from stop. Vibration when accelerating while moving. Vibration while brakeing. Clanking starts back up when speed is lower and almost stopped....


Most likely the U-Joints. It shouldn't be driven until they are fixed. You can check them by crawling under the truck and simply grabbing the driveshaft and turning it with your hand. You'll be able to see right away if they are tight or sloppy. Any slop at all means the U-joints are bad. Make sure to set the parking brake first and put the truck in neutral before crawling under it.

Dec 28, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

How do you remove the front axle to get the engine and transmission out


This is a generalised approach for most front wheel drive vehicles.
The front suspension strut needs to be unbolted from the control arm before the driveshaft can be removed.
First off, loosen the driveshaft nut(large nut in the centre of the wheel). These are very tight and usually require at least a 30 or 32mm deep wall socket with a torque wrench to remove. You will probably need some help as the car will move as soon as you put force on that nut. Best solution is have someone step on the brakes or put the car in top gear with the parking brake engaged.(This will not work on an automatic)
With the driveshaft nuts removed put the vehicle on axle stands so that the front wheels are clear off the ground. Do not use 2 jacks or bricks to do this. Be sure to chock the rear wheels and engage the parking brake.
Remove the front wheels. If you forgot to loosen the wheel nuts before jacking the car up, once again have your unfortunate assistant step on the brakes so you can loosen them.
Have a look at the lower control arm (Sort of a triangular shaped arm between the body of the car and the hub carrier. It connects to the hub carrier by way of a ball joint. If you're lucky the ball joint will be bolted to the control arm which is easy to remove, else it has to be undone by way of the single bolt on the hub carrier. The ball joint is difficult to remove at this point and needs a special tool to force it out of its seat. Hammering is definately not recommended and levering against the CV joint can cause damage to the CV.
Once done the hub carrier can be pulled away from the car to give you the free space to pull the outer end of the driveshaft out of the hub carrier. The inner end of the driveshaft clips into the gearbox and can be pulled or levered out with some effort.(hopefully the gearbox has been drained before this point as there may be some spillage of gearbox fluid/oil as soon as the shaft is removed from the gearbox).) Once the drive shafts are free the engine/gearbox combination can be removed. Reassembly is the reverse of removal, but remember to torque the driveshaft nut to the correct setting with a torque wrench. After reassembly have the wheel alignment set.
Hopefully I dont step on any copyright toes. Below is from a Haynes workshop manual.
e8058cc.jpg

May 30, 2010 | 1999 Honda Accord

2 Answers

2005 ford escape 3.0L AWD XLT - DRIVESHAFT CARRIER BEARING BAD - CAN IT BE REPLACED OR MUST I CHANGE THE DRIVESHAFT FRONT AND REAR?


if there is some one in your area that balances driveshafts they can change just the bearing for you

Nov 10, 2009 | 2004 Ford Escape

2 Answers

Need to change cv outer boot on mazda ba 94 model.


it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
  1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).




  1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.




  1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).




  1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.




  1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.




  1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.




  1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.

    Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
  1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.




  1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
  1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.




  1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
  1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).




  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.




  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
    If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
  1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323

2 Answers

Noisy shifting


I'm wondering if what you are hearing is the driveshaft universal joints. If they are worn they will 'clunk' every time you put the vehicle in gear. Block all wheels to check, put vehicle in neutral, NOT running, crawl under and move the driveshaft back and forth while watching the front then rear u-joint. It should be obvious if there is 'slop' or 'play' in them, which would indicate they need to be replaced.

Aug 11, 2009 | 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Part names


cardan centering bearing
point bolts needed to be removed that connects D.S.to transfercase

May 22, 2009 | 2001 Ford Excursion

1 Answer

Ford super duty vibration/shake


The carrier bearing should not move at all. It is mounted in rubber to give a little. But, it should not move freely. If this is the case then something has gone bad. The carrier bearing would cause this vibration as it spins if it is loose.

Mar 16, 2009 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab

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