Question about 1994 Volvo 850

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The car cranks over but will not start. It was a casual problem at first. I was able to spray with starting fluid and would start and run for a few days then i would have to use starting fluid again. Now that wont even start it. I fouund a few broken air hoses broke on the throttle body and replaced but the problem is not solved. Also the last time i used starting fluid it made a big bang, and then when i crank over it doesn't sound the same as it use to when i crank it over. The fuel pump does hum for about 5 seconds when i put the key in the on position. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike

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  • mlehosky Jan 02, 2011

    So maybe the solution is the timing belt. But does any of the broken air lines, contribute to the problem, and also the electrical thing on the throttle body ( where the cable goes from the gas pedal) hums like crazy when the key is on. Is that normal?

  • mlehosky Jan 02, 2011

    Well i guess i will look into the timing belt issue first then go from there. If you could send me anymore info on how to replace would be appreciated. Also what is the average labor hours to replace? Just in case its to much for me to do i will be able to determine the cost, so i don't get ripped off. I know the belt and tension are on average about $150.00. Also you stated that it could be a computer problem? Are the compuers expensive? Could the idle air control be replaced? The car does have about 130,000 miles on it. Thanks again, Mike

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  • Volvo Master
  • 7,782 Answers

Hi, if the car suddenly sounds different when cranking, suspect the timing belt has slipped or broken. Possibly your crankshaft sensor was loose or packing up which led to a backfire, which reversed the crank direction and caused the belt to jump. I have pasted directions below from autozone.com on how to remove your timing belt cover if you want to check the belt yourself. The last picture below shows the timing marks on the gears. If the belt is still intact, use a socket on your crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the engine until the camshaft gears align with their marks. Then check the crankshaft gear at the bottom to see if it is aligned to it's mark. If not, your timing has slipped and you need a new belt. If the belt is bad, I can also supply directions for replacing it. Please let me know if you have questions and thanks for using FixYa.


2.3L and 2.4L 5-Cylinder Engines

See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the coolant expansion tank and place it on top of the engine.
  3. Remove the spark plug cover.
  4. Remove the drive belts.
  5. Remove the fuel line clips.
  6. Remove the right front wheel and loosen the inner fenderwell.
  7. Remove the vibration damper guard and turn crankshaft pulley until the marks are lined up.
  8. Remove the water pump pulley.
  9. Remove the retaining bolts and lift off the timing belt cover.

The car cranks over but will not start. It was a - jturcotte_705.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Unplug the connector, disconnect the hose and remove the expansion tank



jturcotte_706.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the belt and the tensioner

jturcotte_707.gif

Fig. The car cranks over but will not start. It was a - jturcotte_708.gife spark plug cover to ...



Fig. Fig. 5: ... access the fuel line clips



jturcotte_709.gif

Fig. Fig. 6: Unfasten the retaining bolts and remove the fuel line clipsThe car cranks over but will not start. It was a - jturcotte_711.gifp>


jturcotte_710.gif

Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the fenderwelThe car cranks over but will not start. It was a - jturcotte_712.gif />



jturcotte_711.gif


Fig. Fig. 8: Remove the water pump pulley; it is retained by The car cranks over but will not start. It was a - jturcotte_713.gifshown)


jturcotte_712.gif


Fig. Fig. 9: Remove the retaining bolts and carefully remove the timing belt cover




timing marks:

jturcotte_713.gif


Posted on Jan 02, 2011

  • 4 more comments 
  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Jan 02, 2011

    Hi, the thing on the throttle body is probably the idle air control valve. It will actuate as long as the engine is idling. If it is buzzing when the engine isn't running, there may be a problem with your computer--let's hope not. Yes, the broken hoses will definitely make the car idle poorly too and perhaps not start. However, only a bad timing belt will make the engine suddenly turn over faster or sound different when cranking. That was the telltale sign that led me to answer the way I did. OK?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Jan 02, 2011

    If the idle air control valve is vibrating, I would take it off and plug it back in while out of the throttle body. Turn the key on to see if it buzzes out of the engine. If yes, you probably need a new one. If not, look inside to see if something is blocking the valve from closing. Clean out any blockages and reinstall the valve. You may also have a bad crank sensor. I recommend you check it for looseness first, but not buy it yet. If your belt is really bad, I would like to see if that solves all of your problems. I will send a diagram of the crank sensor and instructions for putting in a new belt. The labor is I think about 5-6 hours total, but you may have already done part of the work once you have the cover off the belt.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Jan 02, 2011

    Correction--on your idle air control valve, you do not unscrew it from the engine. Just take the top hose off and look inside the valve for blockage. If there is blockage, remove the bottom hose as well and clean thoroughly with carb cleaner.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Jan 02, 2011

    Hi, here are some tests you can run on your IAC using a mulitmeter. This only takes a few minutes.





    TESTING



    See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6



    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

    2. Unplug the IAC connector.

    3. To test the coil driver circuits in the IAC valve:


      1. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between pins 3 and 2 on the IAC valve.

      2. Resistance should be 10-14 ohms. If resistance is ok, proceed to the next step. If resistance is out of range, replace the IAC and retest.

      3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the IAC valve.

      4. Resistance should be 10-14 ohms. If resistance is ok, proceed to the next step. If resistance is out of range, replace the IAC and retest.



    4. To test the voltage lead:


      1. Using an voltmeter, measure the voltage at terminal 2. Turn the ignition ON , and measure the voltage between terminal 2 and ground.

      2. Voltage should be battery voltage. If voltage is not present or out of range, repair the circuit. If voltage is ok, proceed to the next step.



    5. To test the signal return:


      1. Using an voltmeter, measure the voltage at terminal 1. Turn the ignition ON , and measure the voltage between terminal 1 and ground.

      2. Voltage should be around 6.0-8.5v. If voltage is not present or out of range, repair the circuit. If voltage is ok, proceed to the next step.



    To test the ground circuit:



    1. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance at terminal 3. Turn the ignition ON , and measure the resistance between terminal 1 and ground.

    2. Resistance should be 0 ohms. If continuity is not present or out of range, repair the circuit. If continuity is ok, replace the CMP sensor and retest.






    Fig. Fig. 2: IAC valve terminal (pin) identification











    Fig. Fig. 3: IAC valve connector terminal identification









    Fig. Fig. 4: Testing the coil driver circuit between pins 2 and 3









    Fig. Fig. 5: Testing the coil driver circuit between pins 2 and 1










    Fig. Fig. 6: Testing the IAC valve circuit at terminal 2 of the harness connector


    TESTING


    See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Unplug the IAC connector.
    3. To test the coil driver circuits in the IAC valve:
      1. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between pins 3 and 2 on the IAC valve.
      2. Resistance should be 10-14 ohms. If resistance is ok, proceed to the next step. If resistance is out of range, replace the IAC and retest.
      3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the IAC valve.
      4. Resistance should be 10-14 ohms. If resistance is ok, proceed to the next step. If resistance is out of range, replace the IAC and retest.

    4. To test the voltage lead:
      1. Using an voltmeter, measure the voltage at terminal 2. Turn the ignition ON , and measure the voltage between terminal 2 and ground.
      2. Voltage should be battery voltage. If voltage is not present or out of range, repair the circuit. If voltage is ok, proceed to the next step.

    5. To test the signal return:
      1. Using an voltmeter, measure the voltage at terminal 1. Turn the ignition ON , and measure the voltage between terminal 1 and ground.
      2. Voltage should be around 6.0-8.5v. If voltage is not present or out of range, repair the circuit. If voltage is ok, proceed to the next step.

    To test the ground circuit:

    1. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance at terminal 3. Turn the ignition ON , and measure the resistance between terminal 1 and ground.
    2. Resistance should be 0 ohms. If continuity is not present or out of range, repair the circuit. If continuity is ok, replace the CMP sensor and retest.

    Fig. Fig. 2: IAC valve terminal (pin) identification






    Fig. Fig. 3: IAC valve connector terminal identification





    Fig. Fig. 4: Testing the coil driver circuit between pins 2 and 3





    Fig. Fig. 5: Testing the coil driver circuit between pins 2 and 1





    Fig. Fig. 6: Testing the IAC valve circuit at terminal 2 of the harness connector

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Jan 02, 2011

    Your crankshaft sensor is screwed in below the distributor. There are also some tests you can do on that, but I suspect yours may be intermittent, so I'm not sure it is good even if it tests good.

    That said, I wouldn't replace it yet either, unless it tests bad.



    1. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance across the two sensor terminals.


    2. Resistance should be between 200-500 ohms. If the resistance is out of range, replace the sensor

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Jan 02, 2011

    Here is the belt replacement procedure:

    2.3L and 2.4L 5-Cylinder Engines


    See Figures 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21



    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

    2. Remove the coolant expansion tank and place it on top of the engine.

    3. Remove the spark plug cover and drive belts.

    4. Remove the timing belt cover.

    5. Align the pulley marks with the marks on the engine mounting plate.

    6. Wait five minutes after lining up marks, then install gauge 998 8500 or equivalent between the exhaust camshaft and water pump. Read the gauge using a mirror, while still installed. For 23mm belts, the tension should be 2.7-4.0 units.


    If the belt tension is incorrect, the tensioner must be replaced.



    1. Remove the upper tensioner bolt and loosen the lower bolt, turning the tensioner to free up the pulley.

    2. Remove the lower bolt and the tensioner.

    3. Remove the timing belt.


    To install:



    1. Turn all the pulleys listening for bearing noise. Check to see that the contact surfaces are clean and smooth.

    2. Remove the tensioner pulley lever and idler pulley, lubricate the contact surfaces and bearing with grease. If the tensioner pulley lever or idler is seized replace it.

    3. Install the tensioner pulley lever and idler pulley and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

    4. Compress the tensioner with tool 999 5456 or equivalent and insert a 0.079 in. (2.0mm) lock pin in the piston. If the tensioner leaks, has no resistance, or will not compress, replace it.

    5. Install the tensioner and tighten the bolts to18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

    6. Install the timing belt in order:


      1. Around the crankshaft sprocket.

      2. Around the right idler pulley

      3. Around the camshaft sprockets

      4. Around the water pump

      5. Onto the tensioner pulley



    7. Pull the lock pin out from the tensioner and install the upper timing cover. Turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions and check to see that the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are lined up.

    8. Install the timing belt covers and the fuel line clips.

    9. Install the accessory belts.

    10. Install the vibration damper guard and the inner fenderwell.

    11. Install the spark plug cover.

    12. Install the coolant reservoir tank.

    13. Connect the negative battery cable.






    Fig. Fig. 10: Line up the camshaft pulleys with the marks on the engine mounting plate




    Fig. Fig. 11: If you are not replacing the timing belt, make sure you mark the rotational direction for proper indexing upon installation




    Fig. Fig. 12: To ease installation, note the belt routing before removal






    Fig. Fig. 13: The tensioner as mounted on the engine block




    Fig. Fig. 14: Remove the tensioner pulley from the engine





    Fig. Fig. 15: Slide the timing belt off the camshaft pulleys and remove it from the engine





    Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the tensioner from the engine






    Fig. Fig. 17: Install the tensioner in a vise ...





    Fig. Fig. 18: ... and compress the tensioner piston until ...





    Fig. Fig. 19: ... the holes align ...




    Fig. Fig. 20: ... then install a 2mm lock pin (or 2mm Allen wrench, as used here)




    Fig. Fig. 21: Remove the tensioner from the vise, leaving the pin or Allen wrench in the piston

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the coolant expansion tank and place it on top of the engine.
    3. Remove the spark plug cover and drive belts.
    4. Remove the timing belt cover.
    5. Align the pulley marks with the marks on the engine mounting plate.
    6. Wait five minutes after lining up marks, then install gauge 998 8500 or equivalent between the exhaust camshaft and water pump. Read the gauge using a mirror, while still installed. For 23mm belts, the tension should be 2.7-4.0 units.

    If the belt tension is incorrect, the tensioner must be replaced.
    1. Remove the upper tensioner bolt and loosen the lower bolt, turning the tensioner to free up the pulley.
    2. Remove the lower bolt and the tensioner.
    3. Remove the timing belt.

    To install:
    1. Turn all the pulleys listening for bearing noise. Check to see that the contact surfaces are clean and smooth.
    2. Remove the tensioner pulley lever and idler pulley, lubricate the contact surfaces and bearing with grease. If the tensioner pulley lever or idler is seized replace it.
    3. Install the tensioner pulley lever and idler pulley and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    4. Compress the tensioner with tool 999 5456 or equivalent and insert a 0.079 in. (2.0mm) lock pin in the piston. If the tensioner leaks, has no resistance, or will not compress, replace it.
    5. Install the tensioner and tighten the bolts to18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    6. Install the timing belt in order:
      1. Around the crankshaft sprocket.
      2. Around the right idler pulley
      3. Around the camshaft sprockets
      4. Around the water pump
      5. Onto the tensioner pulley

    7. Pull the lock pin out from the tensioner and install the upper timing cover. Turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions and check to see that the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are lined up.
    8. Install the timing belt covers and the fuel line clips.
    9. Install the accessory belts.
    10. Install the vibration damper guard and the inner fenderwell.
    11. Install the spark plug cover.
    12. Install the coolant reservoir tank.
    13. Connect the negative battery cable.


    Fig. Fig. 10: Line up the camshaft pulleys with the marks on the engine mounting plate


    Fig. Fig. 11: If you are not replacing the timing belt, make sure you mark the rotational direction for proper indexing upon installation


    Fig. Fig. 12: To ease installation, note the belt routing before removal



    Fig. Fig. 13: The tensioner as mounted on the engine block


    Fig. Fig. 14: Remove the tensioner pulley from the engine


    Fig. Fig. 15: Slide the timing belt off the camshaft pulleys and remove it from the engine


    Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the tensioner from the engine



    Fig. Fig. 17: Install the tensioner in a vise ...

    Fig. Fig. 18: ... and compress the tensioner piston until ...


    Fig. Fig. 19: ... the holes align ...

    Fig. Fig. 20: ... then install a 2mm lock pin (or 2mm Allen wrench, as used here)

    Fig. Fig. 21: Remove the tensioner from the vise, leaving the pin or Allen wrench in the piston

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