- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if too rich adjust choke leaner
if too lean, adjust choke righer.
from 1920 to about 1988 , usa, 70 years we did this.
no more. well we do, but most dont now.
i still have 1 twin carb motor cycle and one single carb VW 1968.
also the chock heater must work and the choke spring not old.
the old bi-metal spring that is old become lazy,/crazy. kick it to the curb for best experiences.
if water heated choke the water actually must flow here.
if not, it will fail.
there are 3 common types.
electric, needs 12v.
water, needs 180F hot water actual flow.
and exhaust choke stove heater. (a small horror this, dont ask)
there are others, but would need carb name and p/n
Actually a simple fix: there is a set screw on the front of the shift knob. Loosen it and gently pull up on the shift lever while the shifter is in park. Tighten the screw while making sure the lever doesn't drop again. Make sure everything works. The problem is caused by someone leaning on the shift lever, causing the linkage to go out of adjustment . The linkage is adjusted by raising and lowering the shift lever. ( there will be hundreds of mechanism mad at me for giving away one of t here moneymaking secrets.)
custom carb . who knows what you have, even diff, engine. remove hose, measure it. if not up to measuring, take it to any shop and they will tell you, what I.D it is. (most hoses are marked) the jerking can be many things. seems to me its the DASH pot effect. on custom carbs there is no dash pot, so when you drop the hammer (throttle ) you get 100% closes throttle and next snapping the orig, carb had a dash pot, now missing. one trick is to run high idle speeds, or back off throttle slower driving. or add a dashpot. it simple delays throttle snap back. sure the timing changes rpm that is why. when tuning any carb, you set timing first , then tune carb to that. stock timing and stock advance if motor is still stock, you dizzy has stock advancing weights and springs, i test those first. cheers.
there are two little spring loaded adjusters on the side of the carb, however if its way out due to elevation you will need to re-jet the carb. you need to be carefull, if you set it to rich or to lean you could damage your engine, if you are unsure i suggest taking it to a shop to play it safe.
Hi there tippo, It chould be the needle valves but i am more leaning towards the air/ fuel/ LPG not being at the correct ratio. If you are unfamilliar with running both gasses at the same time you may want to take it in to be adjusted. Also you can ask them what they are doing, a lot of shops out ther would be willing to show you how to make the adjustments. Mine would. I hope this helps you please leave feedback if i was of some assistance.
Check to see if there's a vacuum leak at the base gasket. Let it idle and spray a little carburetor cleaner around the base. If the idle goes up, the spray is sealing the leak momentarily. If it's getting too much air, it's the same as not getting enough fuel.
In the late 70's they mandated that the adjustment screws be capped over. If they haven't been exposed, there will be two plugs covering them on the baseplate. Air adjustment screws are always somewhere on the base of all carbs with the only exception being on Holley 4bbl carbs used on performance engines (definitely not yours)
Yes, Colorado is much higher in altitude. Do to higher altitude the barometric pressure is less than sea level by a long shot. Lower barometric pressure mean that less air is entering your engine. Which in turns mean that your engine is now running richer than it was at a a lower altitude. So I recommend checking you engine timing, and adjusting your carbs air/fuel mixture. yes this means that you may need to rejet. but first there is a screw on your 22r's carb that you must adjust to lean the air mixture just right. I have had a stock 22r carbortor before and never had to rejet it. i probibly should have but it ran fine at sea level and all the way to about 10000 ft. after 10000 feet i had to lean the fuel mixture to even alow the engine to run. This screw that you must turn is hidden due to toyota not wanting you to tamper with it and burn your engine to the ground by running your engine to lean. it has a metal plug on the passenger side of the carb about the size of a pencil eraser. you must drill that out and then you can adjust the air fuel mixture. Clock wise is to lean the air fuel. and Counter clock wise is to richen the air fuel mixture.A good rule of thumb is to turn the air/fuel screw all the way clock wise and then back out about 2 and 1/2 turns. That is the factory adjustment. you may only need 2 turns out. Best of luck i hope you get it running perfect. Try this adjustment first then if it still runs rich then think about rejetting.
Here is a picture of what i am talking about.
#1 is the air/fuel mixture, #2 and #3 are cold and warm idle screws. #4 is a A/c idle adjustment.