Question about 1997 GMC Sierra

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Lower gear on distibutor is severly worn by cam shaft

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This was a common problem on the Vortec for a year or two. The distributor gear was too soft and prone to wear.

Here's the proper procedure to replace:

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t3398434-distributor_gear_worn_timing_retarded_15

You could also exchange the entire distributor for a rebuilt one.

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a 1957 Ford 292 engine and it is misfiring on cylinders 4 and 8. What could be the problem?


I had a 312 cid in my 1956 Ford. There are several possibilities and in the firing order, cylinders 4 and 8 are next to each other in Counter Clockwise firing order.
There is a ridge on the cap which matches a slot on the distributor and allows the 2 parts to interlock and mesh. Any other rotation of the cap will tip the cap off center and increase the firing gap on the high side while possibly causing the opposing terminals to scrape.
Wear in breaker plate bushing or distributor shaft bushing. Easily determined if you can find a real old-time speed shop with a Distributor curve machine. What happens is torque shifts the spinning distributor shaft to the side of the bushing with excess play. Basically same thing happens with a worn breaker plate; movement causes misalignment of breaker plate and points lose gap when breaker cam tries to lift points.
If removed you can fiddle with distributor shaft and put points on "High-cam" for each cylinder and measure point gap. Logically, if perfect, each "High Cam" has the same gap. But wear will show up if you put pressure either on the breaker plate or the distributor shaft.
There is a spring pin holding the distributor gear onto the shaft. You may find a seal on the shaft at some point. The parts were lubed by the oil "sling" onto the distributor housing, You may be able to "180" the distributor drive gear so mark it relative to the distributor shaft.
Other than the above, I do not know if an 8mm wire would fit into the Distributor cap; the older wires were 7mm 0r thinner and sometimes spark would jump if the wires crossed.
Finally, and much more expensive would be worn rear Camshaft bushings. 4 and 8, I believe were opposed and wobble could account for non electrical misfiring.
I hope my info has helped you. Would be interested in what you found.

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I changed the ignition coil, the wires, and plugs, still only 2 plugs firing. what is my problem ?


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ITS INSIDE THE DISTIBUTOR THKE OFF CAP UNPLUG CONECTOR TAKE OUT DISTIBUTOR SHAFT TAKE OUT MOUNTIHG SCREWS REMOVE SENSOR REPLACE IN OPPISITE ORDER

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How to get the timing right on an ford escort zx2 1998 my timing belt broke and it out of time and i need help to get it back into time with the 2 cames


On the zx2 the cam shafts over the valves have to be viseversa the nuges sould look different on both like one nuge sould be up one and directly across from it should be down make sure when you looking at the front of the engine that there is groves on the right of cam shafts, you should be able to fit a flat bar an a flat piece of metal in there to keep it aligened as you put the belt on as you look at the bottom gear behind the passanger tire there is a incrament on it that mark should be at 12 o clock using the gasket from the oil pan as the starting point sence the oil pan is at a angle make sure the incrament on the gear is at a 90 degree angle from the gasket on the oil pan put the belt on with out any thing moveing its easier to put the timeing belt on with it being on the bottom gear first and then puting it on the top two with out moving the cams or the bottom gear once on remove the metal piece holding the shafts in place and put every thing back together .
Note: if you have issues with the timing belt walking off the gears, then you may have a worn or tapered lower timinggear. The early engines had a two-piece design that was prone to this type of failure.

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