Question about Chevrolet 1500

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Blew a brake line in back then fixed the line but still no back brakes

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Possible causes:
improper bleeding
may still have too much air in the system
need more information about year make model of vehicle
newer vehicle brakes have a cross relationship i.e. L/F AND R/R on the same line and R/F AND L/R on the same line
in which case only one rear wheel will not be braking
and specify which line you fixed also were the back brakes working fine before the brake line breakage.

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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  • 7 Answers

Loosen the bleed screw and and pump the brakes until straight brake fluid comes out. Make sure you get the air all out or it will just keep happening. Make sure to top up brake fluid after as well.

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: my rear wheel brakeline on durango 1998 blew

Depends on your mechanic ablilites. Steel brake line is basically 0.188 inch diameter line, and the metric 6mm line dia is very closely same.
Dodge uses ISO bubble flare , and not the American standard double flare at the end of the steel tube line. This ISO bubble flare on the steel line then fits into its mate female end which is the rubber hose connector end.
So, easiest way to get rid of the ISO bubble flare and change to American double flare end is:
Some automotive stores such as Parts Plus Auto Stores carry the brass brakeline adapter which has one end being the male end that fits nicely into the rubber hose with its ISO bubble female fitting, while the other end of the brass line adapter is the female end which has the double flare so you can then insert the steel line replacement with standard double flare into this end of the adapter.
Steel line , bungy brake line or equivalent is fine, and has the brake line nuts already on it, and is flared for you too. If you want to stay with ISO bubble line fittings you can get that in bungy brake line lengths too but it is less common for some stores to carry, and that is why the conversion brake line fitting adapter mentioned is so easy a way to change from ISO bubble flare to a double flare for easier use of all steel line being standard American double flared brake line. The brake lines come in straight lengths, 2ft 4ft, and 6ft, so you can use them to fit your necessary total length by connecting them with tubing couplers which the steel tube lines brake line nut gets threaded into.
My same year Durango had its rear line blow thru last year, due to the rusting of the steel brake line. I just got done last week, doing a entire steel line replacement myself. It was a medium sized effort for sure. You should check the other lines for the entire brake system to see if you need to replace more than just that section which failed for you, as my lines showed heavy corrosion at many other locations in the brake line system.
It is easy to double flare brake line tubing , and Sears sells its craftsman brand of brake line double flare tool kit for that purpose at about 60 bucks if I recall it right.
One thing you should do when doing your own double flaring, is to use a dial caliper to measure the diameter of the flare at its widest flared end, to insure you are within the required diameter of flare to insure proper sealing when you tighten down the tube flare nuts. I recall the flare diameter is supposed to be 0.272 inches , plus or minus 0.006 inches ( so range of dial caliper measuring of that formed flare should be between 0.266 inch and 0.278 inch) to insure the right diameter of flare for good sealing.
You can also get steel galvanized tubing line in coils of 20ft and more, with a bunch of brake line nuts ( all this is standard american brake line nuts, for double flared line fitting) from Inline Tube company; www.inlinetube.com.
Check out the great tech info from FEDHILL website, www.fedhillusa.com
Good luck, I did it so you can do it and feel satisfied and safe for the family with solid and sound steel line that is much better than chancing an accident via leaving the rusted line in place.

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: NEED TO FIX FRONT BRAKE LINE METAL

In a pinch, I agree, use a compression fitting. But that is even harder than doing it the right way. After cutting the line, you have to have it perfectly round. By working with the already rusty metal, you are now fatiguing the metal. Then add on the compression, and added weight, and you get yourself a weak point.

The easiest way is to by the right length line or lines (It is far better to have more than less), the couplers (if needed), and any special adapters you may need (ie 3/16 standard flare to 1/4 bubble flare.) Take with you the ends and a section of line. The line is not that expensive ($7 for the longest.)

Start running the line, one section at a time, making sure to keep the ends on the end. When you need to make a bend, DO NOT make a tight bend that crimps the line. Discard the line if this happens. If you have a tool, use it. Other wise use you hand to make, gentle bends. Connect one end and connect the couplers, if used. When you get to the other side, wind the excess around a spiral. Secure with wire or existing retainers.

This is way safer than a compression fitting, and not all that hard. Remember to bleed the brakes

Posted on May 28, 2009

1percentclub
  • 75 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 silverado hd. i pushed

Hi oakleafwoodw, sounds as if the brake master cylinder has busted a seal allowing the brake fluid to leak by cylinder when you push the brake pedal giving you no or very little pedal pressure....it is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall, you will see all the brake lines attached to it , remove those and the two bolts holding it on,take it with you to auto parts store for a rebuilt one , they will keep your core for rebuilding, other wise you pay a core charge., verify that they have the one you need before hand, get a quart of dot 4 brake fluid, hook it up, and bleed air from the brake lines starting with wheel cylinders in this order Right rear......left rear.....right front.....left front...making sure to keep fluid level topped off in the master cylinder during the whole bleeding process or you will pump air into lines....OK!! caution: you should not drive it until you have good brakes!! you said they still work but if you had to stop suddenly ,it won't do it.

Posted on May 23, 2011

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Hi oakleafwoodw, sounds as if the brake master cylinder has busted a seal allowing the brake fluid to leak by cylinder when you push the brake pedal giving you no or very little pedal pressure....it is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall, you will see all the brake lines attached to it , remove those and the two bolts holding it on,take it with you to auto parts store for a rebuilt one , they will keep your core for rebuilding, other wise you pay a core charge., verify that they have the one you need before hand, get a quart of dot 4 brake fluid, hook it up, and bleed air from the brake lines starting with wheel cylinders in this order Right rear......left rear.....right front.....left front...making sure to keep fluid level topped off in the master cylinder during the whole bleeding process or you will pump air into lines....OK!! caution: you should not drive it until you have good brakes!! you said they still work but if you had to stop suddenly ,it won't do it.

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