Question about 2005 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Engine dies at hiway speed.Complete power loss.Have to stop without power brakes or steering.Turn key off,starts up and goes fine for a while.No warning when it will happen.Have changed fuel filter and put injector cleaner in...didn't work.120,000 miles

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 4 Answers

My car was driving fine, was on hwy coming home from work and it just shut off completely. Once I started it back up it drove rough. Turned out that I needed the computer replaced. Now a day after having that done and $1600 later my car jumps, Theft light comes on and reading posts of other owners who have had the same issue but their cars stall completely. Best advice I can give after my repairs is get rid of it. Easier said than done I understand but I have spent about $4k in the last 6 months on this vehicle. Had enough.

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

  • gurustu Aug 12, 2011

    I have the same problem with my 2005. I can't believe Ford doesn't think - sudden engine failure is a safety issue!? No recall!?

    After $2,300 I am now waiting for the PCM/ECM to come in from Ford. They said it may be up to a 2 month wait. I can't even drive it. 2 months without wheels? I'm done.

  • Kelly Krabbe Aug 12, 2011

    Just wait, in all I ended up spending approximately $6,000 on my vehicle. Contat National Hwy Safety Commission, if they get more complaints they may finally do something. I contacted a local congressman as well. I had already replaced some of the cylinders and then again had to change them out in addition to the PCM and other related components. Insane how Ford continues to ignore. It seems that people must die before anything is done!

×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

Engine cuts out, steering locks on braking - scary! Help!


What is possibly happening is when you brake, there is a vacuum leak caused by the power brake system, this reduces the engine rpm, which in turn effects the power steering which makes it feel like the steering is locking up. This can also happen with a vacuum leak anywhere in the engine or things like a faulty idle adjustment control.... Turn the vehicle on, place your foot on the brake, if the idle speed increases dramatically you have a problem. Then put the vehiclein drive with your foot on the brake. If it nearly dies, again, you have an issue.
There are many different things on an engine that can create vacuum leaks. EGR Valves, IAC solenoid, PCV valves, the list goes on....
Good luck finding this particular issue!

May 07, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 2002 GMC Yukon just completely shut down while


The timing belt broke and the engine died so no power brakes nor steering. (Assuming the milage is over 100,000)

Oct 18, 2014 | 2002 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Driving along lights dimmed, instrument panel died, loss of power then engine cut out & wouldn't start. Starts with a jump but when i turn key to heat glow plug, instrument panel goes mad


I assume there's a problem with alternator. Check the grounding to engine, check continuity of a positive wire between alternator and battery. the energizing voltage should be checked as well. Might be the bad connection between battery and vehicle body grounding. Diesel cars are sensitive even in a little loss of connection and rust in the connection points.

Feb 18, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2003 Tahoe power loss


If the exhaust note sounds like a jet engine ,loud hissing,the catalitic converter has plugged. Makes the symtom you are speaking of.

Nov 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1997 buick century with only 45,000 miles on it. Yesterday while going highway speed, the antilock brake light came on, followed by no brakes, gas gauge fell to 0 (has a full tank), no steering,...


If the engine died you would loose power assist steering and power assist brakes. I have to think it was an electrical power failure somewhere.
Will it start up and idle now ?

Jun 25, 2012 | 1997 Buick Century

1 Answer

My brakes and power-steering are not working. The brake pedal is hard, but the brakes will not engage. The power steering was not working at the same time. It has brake fluid, but when I took the power...


Yes, your brakes are boosted by the power steering pump rather than by vacuum. I don't think it's air in the system. More likely your pump has failed, but you can try bleeding the pump. Here is a procedure from autozone.com:

Observe the following:
Use clean, new power steering fluid type only Hoses touching the frame, body or engine may cause system noise. Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle. Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system. Verify that all hose connections are tight.


NOTE Power steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.

  1. Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level indicator.
    NOTE With hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake pedal with the engine OFF . This will discharge the hydro-boost accumulator.
  2. If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
    1. Start the engine.
    2. Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.
    3. Turn the engine OFF

  3. Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground.
  4. With key in the ON position and the engine OFF , turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times. Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
  5. Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification.
  6. Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
  7. Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.

Observe the following:



Use clean, new power steering fluid type only Hoses touching the frame, body or engine may cause system noise. Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle. Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system. Verify that all hose connections are tight.
NOTE Power steering fluid level must be maintained throughout bleed procedure.
  1. Fill pump reservoir with fluid to minimum system level, FULL COLD level, or middle of hash mark on cap stick fluid level indicator.
    NOTE With hydro-boost only, the oil level will appear falsely high if the hydro-boost accumulator is not fully charged. Do not apply the brake pedal with the engine OFF . This will discharge the hydro-boost accumulator.
  2. If equipped with hydro-boost, fully charge the hydro-boost accumulator using the following procedure:
    1. Start the engine.
    2. Firmly apply the brake pedal 10-15 times.
    3. Turn the engine OFF

  3. Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground.
  4. With key in the ON position and the engine OFF , turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 12 times. Vehicles equipped with hydro-boost systems or longer length power steering hoses may require turns up to 15 to 20 stop to stops.
  5. Verify power steering fluid level per operating specification.
  6. Start the engine. Rotate steering wheel from left to right. Check for sign of cavitation or fluid aeration (pump noise/whining).
  7. Verify the fluid level. Repeat the bleed procedure if necessary.

Oct 24, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

I have a 2001 Jimmy. Frequently when I try to start it the dash board lights come on when I turn the key and then it goes dead. Nothing electrical works. If I disconnect the battery positive lead for a few...


sounds like there might a draw somewhere or else a bad alternator...and when you're driving, its not charging up your battery and you drive off the battery...when you turn you radio and accessories on, then it has no output...perhaps check for draw first, then check alternator.

Nov 19, 2009 | GMC Jimmy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1995 ford f250 with the 7.3L diesel. The vehicle makes a large sucking noise when cold, and the engine loses power. when the rpm's pick up, it regains power and drives well. Problem goes away when...


The problem is due to a lack of compression in the engine when the truck is cold, try using the engine block heater more, or allow more time for the truck to warm up.

Jan 02, 2009 | 1995 Ford F250

Not finding what you are looking for?
2005 Ford Escape Logo

334 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75822 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5501 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...