Question about 2004 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

I have a 2.4 single overhead cam. I have aligned the counter balance shaft and the crank shaft cogs with the engine marks. I removed the 8mm bolt toward the rear of the engine and was able to insert a pin in ~60mm. Then installed the CPS plate to crank aligned the oil pump marks to engine marks, then aligned cam shaft to timing marks and installed the timing belt, installed compressed automatic tensioner, tightened tensioner cam. Checked tensioner by rotating engine 2 turns then waiting 15 minutes and removed pin in tensioner easily. Is there something that I am missing about the timing? I have no spark when I try to start the engine. I had purchased a new CPS to check the function against my used one function seems OK. Previous reply was for a DOHC engine 3:13 PMShouldn't there be spark even if the timing is off, isn't this mechanical vs. electrical? 3:43 PMI only have (1) cam cog

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  • Dodge Master
  • 2,913 Answers

I can't comment about your engine as I am not familiar with it but generally the spark would be present regardless of the timing, though it is possible the engine management system can recognise if the cam and crank sensors aren't in sync. and kill the spark to prevent engine damage.

I suggest you check the wiring and security of the connections to the crank and cam sensors and then revisit the valve timing.

Your car probably has an immobiliser and it is possibly not disarming properly. I suggest you begin by reading the vehicle handbook to refresh your memory regarding the exact function.

Posted on Mar 12, 2017

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  • Dodge Master
  • 15,451 Answers

Check the crank sensor wires

Posted on Mar 12, 2017

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Extended Cab 4x4

idle air control motor on back of throttle body maybe malfunctioning and not allowing it to idle

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: car won't start but will crank and turn engine

first check the spark plugs wire, and distributor cap and rotor.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Neon: P0016 (already replaced sensors, belt, tensioner

the computer may need to be reflashed. if it is running then it is not a bad sensor. either of those being bad would cause it not to run.

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced timing belt but now the car wont start

timing these new motors today are difficult, your timing may still be off. You'll need to get a timing gun. Also did you make sure that the motor was Top Dead Center(TDC).

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 2.0L DOHC neon, water pump went which caused

Yes, very much so.

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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1 Answer

What are the timing marks for a mitsi 4d56 engine and were are they situated


This is an excellent engine for timing up every cog has a timing mark in the front castings and of course on the cogs except the injector pump the mark is on the casting but the wheel has a sub plate carrying the mark so it is most important to mark the plate with reference to the cog before taking off the four six mm bolts. The balance shafts also have pecks in them and corresponding casting marks, be sure to change both timing belts at the same time.the crank pulley can be troublesome as most were auto boxes so the engine can't be held. I made a simple but very effective way of holding the crank solid, in the book it suggests wedging flywheel with screwdriver which is impossible. On the lower bell housing casing there are two very thick angled webs, remove dirt plate four bolts, now you can see the starter ring. Drill at tap the angled webs 8mm with holes perpendicular to the crank centre and central on the starter ring.get two 8mm cap screws 40mm long and nuts. Grind the tips to a stub point at the angle between the starter ring teeth, put on the lock nuts right to the shoulders and screw them into your tapped holes, firstly having set the crank to the mark on the inner belt cog TDC, tighten the bolts into the starter ring and set the lock nuts. The crank won't move I have had the torque bar to 220ftlbs on the front bolt not a movement all timing is made so simple from this point forward as is the refitting of the 5th harmonic damper pulley with lots of loctite

Oct 06, 2014 | Mitsubishi L200 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Timming chain broke


place no 1 piston at TDC compression stroke. There are procedures for the timing of the balance shafts but if it is only the timing chain I will go to that
Align uniquely coloured chain link with intake camshaft sprocket timing mark-- INT--. ( this will be pointing at the 2 o'clock position)
install timing chain and sprocket as an assembly
align first matching coloured chain link crankshaft timing mark (5 o'clock position)
align the second matching coloured chain link with exhaust cam shaft timing mark--EXH ( at the 11 o'clock position
There is a special procedure to reset the balance tensioner and it is different to the timing chain procedure.

To reset cam shaft timing chain tensioner push piston fully and turn clockwise until locked
Once the tensioner has been compressed ensure the distance from end to end is 2.83 inches . If not repeat the resetting process
vehicles 30.000 miles the tensioner is released when the engine is first started . In vehicles over 30.000 miles manually release tensioner by tapping the plunger
Note cam shaft and crank shaft sprockets bolts MUST only be used once. If you want details on the balancer chain procedure then make a comment in the box
use tension wrench and a degree gauge
cam bolts are tensioned to 63 ft lbs + 30 degrees
crank shaft pulley is tensioned to 74 ft lbs + 75 degrees

Feb 02, 2014 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

How to change a timing belt


In 98 to 2002 Kia Sportage models ( all equipped with the DOHC 16V 2.0 liter 4 cylinder motor ) these are the instructions for the timing belt replacement.
1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, dont worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom.
2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless.
3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be.
4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3.
5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on.
5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isnt turned over.
6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt.
7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog. There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry.
8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner.
9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6.
10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate.
11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6.
12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away.
I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need.

would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends.

Oct 01, 2010 | 2002 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

My balance shaft belt broke while I was driving. It stripped some of the teeth off the timing belt and Im pretty sure it jumped time. I need a diagram to show the timing marks and how to get it back in...


see diagrams from autozone.com. Cam sprocket has an "UP" label, but also 2 scribes on the sides to align to upper head surface. The critical part of the job is keeping tension on the side of the belt that is opposite from the tensioner as the tensioner is released onto the belt. The timing marks must be aligned when the job is done.

2bd7a51.jpg
4256a1c.gif To install:

  1. Install the camshaft timing sprocket so that the UP mark is up and the TDC marks are parallel to the cylinder head gasket surface. Install the key and tighten the bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  2. Install the crankshaft sprocket so that the TDC mark aligns with the pointer on the oil pump. Install the spacers with their concave surfaces facing in. Install the key. If equipped, install the TDC sensor assembly back into position before installing the timing belt.
  3. Install and tension the timing belt. Use a 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt threaded through the cam belt tensioner plate to temporarily hold the tensioner.
  4. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 5-6 turns to be sure the belt is properly seated.
  5. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC for its compression stroke.



WARNING If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves.

  1. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the camshaft pulley moves only 3 teeth beyond its TDC mark.
  2. Loosen, then retighten the temporary cam belt tensioner bolt.
  3. If the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly was removed, perform the following:
    1. If the rear balance shaft was moved, rotate the balance shaft until the 6 x 1.0mm x 100 mm bolt can be installed into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
    2. Align the notch of the balance shaft sprocket edge with the pointer on the gear case. Install the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly using a new O-ring coated with fresh engine oil. The balance shaft sprocket should be installed in the TDC position. The pointer on the gear should align with the pointer on the oil pump housing plate.
    3. Tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

  4. If the front balance shaft sprocket was removed, perform the following:
    1. Install a suitable and sturdy screw driver or drift through the maintenance hole in the shaft behind the sprocket to hold the front balance shaft.
    2. Install the front balance shaft sprocket and mounting nut. Torque the nut to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).

  5. Make sure the balance shafts and crankshaft are in the TDC position.
  6. Remove the crankshaft pulley, and if removed, install the balance shaft belt drive sprocket.
  7. Install the balance shaft belt, making sure the balance shafts and sprockets are still in the TDC position.
  8. If removed, install the balance shaft belt tensioner and tension the balance shaft belt.
  9. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  10. Remove the 6 x 1.0mm x 100mm rear balance shaft holding bolt.
  11. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions counterclockwise, stopping at TDC.



WARNING If any resistance is felt, stop immediately and determine the cause.

  1. Recheck that all of the TDC marks align for both the camshaft and balance shafts.
  2. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  3. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt used to secure the camshaft timing belt tensioner.
  4. Remove the crankshaft pulley and install the lower cover.
  5. Install the crankshaft pulley, lubricate the bolt threads and both sides of the crankshaft pulley bolt with fresh engine oil and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). Do Not use an impact wrench.
See Figures 19 and 20


087aa27.gif

              Fig. Fig. 19: Holding the rear timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey



            811a2fe.gif

            Fig. Fig. 20: Aligning the front timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey

            1. Install the upper timing cover and the valve cover. Be sure the seals are properly seated.
            2. Install the side engine mount. Tighten the through-bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Tighten the mount nut and bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) each.
            3. Remove the floor jack.
            4. Install and tension the alternator belt.
            5. Install the power steering pump and tension its belt.
            6. Install the splash shields.
            7. Reconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Enter the radio security code.
            8. Check engine operation.

            Sep 20, 2010 | Honda Odyssey Cars & Trucks

            2 Answers

            Timming bailt marks for 1990 plym laser rs


            REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engine
            1. If possible, position the engine so the No. 1 piston is at TDC.
            2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
            3. Remove the timing belt covers.
            4. Remove the timing (outer) belt tensioner and remove the outer timing belt.
            5. Remove the outer crankshaft sprocket and flange.
            6. Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the belt. Fig. 1: Silent shaft belt timing marks — 1.8L engine 89573g93.gif
              Fig. 2: Checking the silent shafts for proper positioning 89573g94.gif
              Fig. 3: Timing belt timing mark alignment — 1.8L engine 89573g95.gif
              To install:
            7. Align the timing marks of the silent shaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket with the timing marks on the front case. Wrap the timing belt around the sprockets so there is no slack in the upper span of the belt and the timing marks are still aligned.
            8. Install the tensioner pulley and move the pulley by hand so the long side of the belt deflects about 1⁄4 in.
            9. Hold the pulley tightly so the pulley cannot rotate when the bolt is tigthened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and recheck the deflection amount.
            10. Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward the water pump and tighten the bolts. Place the upper end of the spring against the water pump body.
            11. Align the timing marks of the camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump sprockets with their corresponding marks on the front case or rear cover. NOTE: There is a possibility to align all timing marks and have the oil pump sprocket and silent shaft out of time, causing an engine vibration during operation. If the following step is not followed exactly, there is a 50 percent chance that the silent shaft alignment will be 180 degrees off.
            12. Before installing the timing belt, ensure that the left side (rear) silent shaft (oil pump sprocket) is in the correct position as follows:
              1. Remove the plug from the rear side of the block and insert a tool with shaft diameter of 0.31 in. (8mm) into the hole.
              2. With the timing marks still aligned, the shaft of the tool must be able to go in at least 2 1/2 in. If the tool can only go in about 1 in., the shaft is not in the correct orientation and will cause a vibration during engine operation. Remove the tool from the hole and turn the oil pump sprocket 1 complete revolution. Realign the timing marks and insert the tool. The shaft of the tool must go in at least 2 1/3 in.
              3. Recheck and realign the timing mark.
              4. Leave the tool in place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.
            13. Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket, then camshaft sprocket, in that order. While doing so, make sure there is no slack between the sprocket except where the tensioner is installed.
            14. Recheck the timing marks' alignment. If all are aligned, loosen the tensioner mounting bolt and allow the tensioner to apply tension to the belt.
            15. Remove the tool that is holding the silent shaft and rotate the crankshaft a distance equal to 2 teeth on the camshaft sprocket. This will allow the tensioner to automatically apply the proper tension on the belt. Do not manually overtigthen the belt or it will howl.
            16. Tigthen the lower mounting bolt first, then the upper spacer bolt.
            17. To verify correct belt tension, check that the deflection at the longest span of the belt is about 1⁄2 in.
            18. Install the timing belt covers and all related items.
            19. Connect the negative battery cable.

            Aug 02, 2010 | 1990 Plymouth Laser

            1 Answer

            How do u change the timing belt on a 1990 4 cylinder honda accord?


            Disconnect the wire harness at the distributor.Remove the spark plug closest to the drivers side front tire. Place the palm of your hand over the valve covers empty spark plug hole and have a helper crank the motor over until air pressure pushes past your the palm of your hand. Next, look at the cam shaft wheel and note the direction that the arrow is pointing, the arrow should be pointing straight up IN RELATION TO THE ENGINE not the earth. If it is not, you will need to manually rotate the engine till the cam wheel is infact pointing straight up. Next, Jack up the front of the car and support it with jack stand and remove the front drivers side tire.Next, support the weight of the engine with a floor jack remove the motor mount closest to the drivers side tire To remove it you will need a deep 17mm socket on a heavy duty breaker bar. Next, loosen and remove the power steering belt and alternator belts. To loosen and remove the belts you will need a 10mm wrench and a 12mm wrench. And also a 14mm or 15mm wrench. Next, use a 19mm socket AND an air powered IMPACT wrench to remove the bolt holding on the crank shaft pulley. Next, remove the crankshaft pulley. Next, use a 10mm wrench and/or 10mm socket and remove the bolts holding the plastic engine side cover. Next, loosen the 14mm or 15mm bolt which secures the 2 belt tension wheels. Next, LOOSEN the 10mm bolt that is on the balance shaft tensioner. The balance shaft is the cogged wheel with a small timing mark dot on the side of the wheel. Next, loosen the 10mm bolt on the timing belt tensioner. It's obvious what wheel is the timing belt tensioner. Next, remove the 12mm bolt on the back side of the block (near the balance shaft) a little bit of oil will drip out, this 12mm bolt will allow a long bolt to be inserted into a recessed channel of the balance shaft. This recessed channel is needed to lock the balance shaft in place. A bolt from the air conditioner works great for locking the balance shaft in place. You're basically just pushing the bolt in a hole to keep the balance shaft from spinning.890a27a.jpg Next, remove both the balance shaft belt and timing belt. Then reverse the procedure to complete the new belt installation. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!! PLEASE NOTE, the oil pump wheel furthest to the left (closest to the radiator), has a timing mark on the flat face side of the wheel, that timing mark has to be pointing directly to the 9:o'clock position in relation to the engine. The cam wheel has an arrow on the side of one of the "spokes" ...make sure it is pointing straight up in relation to the engine...straight away from the crank shaft. Put the crank wheel on with the arrow pointing straight up to the center of the cam wheel.

            Jun 28, 2010 | 1990 Honda Accord

            1 Answer

            I need to replace my timing belt on my hyundia elantra 2003 with 1997 cc engine


            Dear Friend
            Removal: Support engine: remove -engine mounting, auxiliary drive belt, water pump pulley, crankshaft pully bots & crankshaft pully, timing belt covers....turn crankshaft to TDC on No 1 cylinder, ensure crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket & balancer shaft sprocket timing marks lighned. Pls note: Timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head uppter face, dowl pins on camshaft sprockets should face downwards....Slacken tensioner botl. Move tensioner away from belt & tighten bolt.
            Remove: automatic tensioner unit bolts, automatic tensioner unit, timing belt, crankshaft bolt, crankshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket guide washer...slacken balancer shaft belt rensioner bolt, move tensioner away from belt & lightly tighten bolt...Remove balancer shaft belt.

            Installation:
            ensure timeing marks aligned.Note: Timing marks on camshaft sprockets ahould align with cylinder head upper face, exhaust sprocket mark is on recess but inlet sprocket mark is on tooth. To check oil pump sprocket positionded sorrectly: remove blanking plug from cylinder block, insert 8mm diameter Phillips screwdriver in hole. ensure screwdriver is inserded 60mm from face of cylinder block. If screwdriveer can only be inserted 20mm-turn oil pump sprocket 360". Inset screwdiver again.
            Fit balancer shaft delt in anti-clockwise direction starting at crandkshaft sprocket....Slacken balancer shaft belt tensioner notl, turn tensioner clockwise to tension belt. Tighten bolt to 15-22 Nm... Applu thump pressure to belt at tentioner, belt should deflect 5-7mm. If not: Repeat tensioning procedure.... Install - chankshaft sprocket guide washer & crankshaft sprocket.
            Thighten crankshaft centre bolt, tightening torque:110-130Nm. Please note, ensure crankshaft sprocket guide washer is fittet correctly. oil threads & contact face crankshaft botl before fitting.

            Sep 21, 2009 | Hyundai Elantra Cars & Trucks

            1 Answer

            Hondai sonota


            Which engine? 4 cylinder (2.4 lit) or V6 (2.7 lit)? Two different procedures as well as different belts. The 4 cylinder also has a balance belt. See next image:
            42e8a57.jpg
            Here's the 2.7 V6 belt:

            44efb27.jpg
            The replacement procedure is nearly the same at the start (removing, accy drive belts, pullys, support engine & remove front engine mount, remove T.B covers, disconnect Cam Position Sensor & Crank Position Sensor connectors, etc.). When you get to this point on the V6, you also have to remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the engine (4 14mm bolts, also a 12mm bolt which bolts the dipstick tube to the side of it) Put crank shaft at TDC (top dead center w/ALL timing marks aligned) remove hydraulic tensioner (2 12 mm bolts), then remove the belt. You'll need to recompress the hydraulic (auto) tensioner in a vise and insert a retaining pin through the pin-holes at the top (through the tensioner piston) to keep it compressed when you reinstall it. Otherwise, you won't be able to install it. Assembly is reverse order of dissassembly. Inspect your pullys while you're in there (check for pully bearing noise, leaking grease, smooth rotation, also the water pump pully, etc.) Replace components as needed. Careful not to damage Crankshaft Position Sensor wire harness.

            The 4 Cylinder is quite different. You not only change the timing belt, but also the countershaft (balance) belt, which is behind the crank position sensor blade. IMPORTANT: ALL TIMING MARKS ALIGNED BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING) There are two (2) counter-shafts (balance shafts). one driven by the timing belt, the other by the crankshaft sprocket behind the timing belt sprocket at the front of the crankshaft.
            70f048d.jpg1999205.jpg366ecea.jpg b8013a3.jpg

            Jun 02, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Sonata

            1 Answer

            Timing belt posision


            1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, dont worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom. 2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless. 3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be. 4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3. 5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on. 5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isnt turned over. 6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt. 7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog. There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry. 8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner. 9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6. 10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate. 11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6. 12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away. I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need. would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends

            Dec 02, 2008 | 2002 Kia Sportage

            2 Answers

            1994 Volvo 940 Station Wagon timing belt


            I hope you've solved the problem by now, but there are alignment marks on the crank shaft (top pulley), idler (lower side), and cam shaft (smaller, bottom pulley) which should be aligned with stationary marks on the timing belt rear cover.

            The belt has marks that align with the aforementioned marks (lines). The double marks on the belt align with the camshaft marks and the single marks with the others.

            Loosen the tensioner clamp (nut) to allow the spring loaded tensioner to press on the belt and retighten the nut.

            Rotate the crank shaft (clockwise, probably two revolutions) and make sure the pulley marks realign to the marks on the cover (they don't have to realign with the marks on the belt).

            Rotate the crank shaft a full revolution once the belt is on and check that alignment is preserved.

            Periodically loosen and retension the tensioner nut (access through a hole in the cover) to ensure that tension is maintained as the belt relaxes.

            Oct 25, 2008 | 1994 Volvo 940

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