Question about 1999 Ford Escort

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Have had 2 timing belts installed with new plastic pullies,not sure why belt will not stay on!Not throwing belt but shredding!

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  • mdcliff Jan 01, 2011

    Are you talking about the internal camshaft timing belts, or the external accessory drive belts?

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CHECK THE TENSIONER AND ALSO SEE IF YOUR GETTING THE RIGHT GEAR ON PRESSED ON ALL THE WAY.










TIM

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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Hi ive got a daewoo espero the cam belt has come off ive got a new one to put on but need the too time marking s to put the cam belt in right please can you help the model i have a put down isnt my car its...


Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

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