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I believe the only option is to remove the lower radiator hose. I'm not very familiar with that model, but there should be a way to get to it. You may have to go in from the bottom. If there's a plastic shield in the way (some cars have a plastic 'tray' under the motor), they can usually be removed with 4-6 screws or bolts.
Most radiators have a fan bolted to the front which needs to be unbolted and removed. Drain the radiator with the drain plug in the bottom, then remove the upper and lower hoses. Next remove the bolts holding the radiator to the frame ( there will probably be about six: two at the top, two half way down, and two on the bottom. Sometimes there are only the two on the top and the radiator sits into little cups. In which case, after removing the bolts juts pull up and out.
You have to drain the unit by unscrewing petcock at the bottom. Then remove radiator hoses, transmission lines and oil cooler lines. Plug lines with rubber nipples. Remove top radiator shroud bolts and bottom and side bolts on shroud. Then remove and replace radiator.
Here is the procedure: Remove radiator cap, Drain coolant, remove drain plug located at bottom of radiator. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses, Remove electric fans mounting 4 bolts and disconnect electrical plug connection, Remove Hi & Lo transmission cooler lines connected behind radiator and finally, remove upper radiator mounting bolts located on top and remove radiator upward.
Not too difficult, a little time consuming. First, take off your negative connection on battery. Drain radiator from bottom plug or drain. You will have to remove the cooling fan assemblies: unplug electrical connectors, and unbolt assemblies from top of radiator or support brackets. Bottom of assemblies may have bolts also, or may just fit in slots. Now remove the top and bottom radiator hoses- loosen clamps, and work hoses back and forth till they're free, then pull off. Also, remove little hose to your coolant overflow tank from radiator filler neck. Check if all electrical and other connections are free. Radiator is bolted by two (or more) upper bolts to radiator support, Don't think there are any on bottom- radiator should pull up and out now.
First, raise the vehicle and make sure it's level.
large bolt (19mm?) on the bottom of the transmission (not on the bell
housing). Once you remove the bottom bolt, the fuild will drain out as
if you were changing your engine oil. Once done, you'll reinstall the
To refill the fluid (about 2 1/2 quarts IIRC), theres
another bolt on the side of the transmission (radiator side). Remove it
and fill with fluid until it starts to drip out. Then reinstall the
bolt and you're done!
You may need a pump to get the fluid into the hole..
Very odd arrangement. You have to reach thru the exhaust manifold. I will paste instructions from Autozone.com below.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Properly drain and recover the coolant to a level below the thermostat.
Unfasten the coolant inlet housing bolt, which is accessible through the exhaust manifold.
Fig. Fig. 5: View of the thermostat and related components-2.4L engine
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the radiator outlet pipe stud.
Remove the second coolant inlet housing bolt, then remove the coolant inlet housing.
Remove the thermostat, then clean the old gasket material from the mating surfaces.
Position the thermostat in its correct location, then install the coolant inlet housing using a new gasket. Tighten the retaining bolt to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) on the 2.3L and 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm) on the 2.4L engine.
Install the radiator outlet pipe stud.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Install the coolant inlet housing bolt through the exhaust manifold.
Properly fill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable, remove the radiator cap, then start the engine. Allow the engine to run with radiator cap removed, until the upper radiator hose becomes hot (thermostat open). With the engine idling, add coolant to the radiator until the level is up to the bottom of the filler neck.
Install the radiator cap, making sure the arrows line up with the overflow tube.
first drain the radiator, theres a drain **** at the bottom of the radiator. just loosen the plug and then open the radiator cap. then disconnect the upper and lower hoses, disconnect the trans lines and plug them temporarily with some spark plugs or just something to plug them with. unplug the radiator fans and remove the wire harness from the fan shrouds. then unbolt the two ten millimeter bolts holding in the radiator and remove it. then take the fan shroud off the old radiator and put it on the new one, should just be a couple ten millimeter bolts. then install in the reverse order. good luck!
Drain the radiator there is a plastic screw plug at the bottom of the radiator, after that disconect the upper and the lowwer hoseby loosening clamps then take a large pair of channel lock pliers to rotate gently the hose where the calmp was located to crack free the hose bond to the radiator pipe after sliding off the hoses remove both smaller hose going to the radiator they use either screw on clamps or the type you squeeze with pliers to spread and remove, once emoved pull off the hoses, after that remove the two clamps located on the top of the radiator, after that unplug the wire coming off the radiator fan, you should now be able to slide the radiator up and out of the car if not remove any other hoses there is a vent hose near the radiator cap remove it. The fan must be unbolted from the radiator and bolted onto the new one there is usaully 4 bolts if neccessary remove and reuse the bolt clips that the bolts screw into from the old radiator to bolt the fan on to the new radiator after bolting the fan on to the new radiator slide the radiator back down into the rubber support bushings that are at the bottom where the radiator sits look for the two holes that the pins at the bottom of radiator fit into the radiator must fit into these holes to ensure proper installation reconnect all hoses and wires, refill radiator with 50% water 50% antifreeze mix and check for leaks after full and running for ten minutes.