Just recently had engine work done on my Ranger.......I am trying to get it all put back together and seem to be having problems with getting the emission control system hooked back up right.......any help would be appreciated.
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If you have fuel in your oil, your piston rings are bad. Get a compression tester from your local auto parts store and do a compression test on each piston. If compression drops, then my theory is confirmed. The only repair is rebuilding the engine, or buying a new engine. Replacing rings is very intensive work. It's easier to simply purchase a crate motor.
This sounds like your problem.....Try this, only takes 5 minutes and probably whats wrong. The same thing happened to me, it was running perfect and died. There's something called an Inertia switch (google how to find it) the older rangers and bronco II's have them. It may think you have gotten in a accident and this device stops the fuel pumps. I literally pressed the reset button on the top of it and my truck started right back up after not being able to start at all.
check the ignition switch, they separate and cause this stall out, try holding the ignition to the crank position just short of causing the starter to run, if the engine stays running then the ignition switch is defective, Ford recalled many of these for this problem, not sure your truck was affected, but it does use the sam switch and gets the same problem.
your having a weak spark issue you will need to remove your distributor to replace the pickup or the coil is breaking down sometimes this can be the egr but be careful removing this as not to break the intake hope this helps
p.s i had one with 2.9 and cured this problem on mine pick up in dist was weak but this could be emission also have any codes? good luck
On my 1998 Ranger, a few years back, I had the same problem. I drilled off the head of the bolt out as I recall. The plastic retainer lifted off and the battery was now able to be removed. Then I drilled downward right next to the frozen bolt on an angle into the base of the frozen bolt. I used a steel washer to back up the now elongated bolt hole in the battery pan when I put it together. Put it back together with a suitable new bolt and nut and the washer on the underside of the battery pan. Assemble it all with grease so you won't be doing this again in another 4 years.
OK! Front brakes not releases all the way; bad calipers or rotten insides on your flex lines (acting as a check valve holding some pressure). Rear- replace hardware and wheel cylinder,( make sure the smaller shoe is on the front halve of backing plate or it will catch and lockup.)