Question about 1995 Buick Park Avenue

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I have a 95 park ave "no turbo" and It will not start no spark from the plugwires. Checked All fuses and master block fuses on the entire car. "Related to symptom's or not" I have just replaced the water pump and drove it home. The NO Start problem occured following day. I have also checked the crank/camshaft position sensor. BUT it was no moved hit josseled or even tapped apon waterpump installation. I have fuel going to the injectors checked via the pressure testervalve on injector line. I also have NO SPARK on the plug wire's. I hooked up a timing light to the # 1 plug wire and nothing!So I did the rest just to check for current of any kind. again NOTHING. I then hooked the light to another car to see if the bulb was good, It is good. Also my radiator hoses are sucking in 'no spring in them' So I bought a new radiator cap.Now I chcked the fuses 'ALL'but do you think this could all be caused by the {ESC} module? Or could it be a frame to engine engine to chassis ground????? Last question Why can they not just bring back the tandard engine, of the 70's& 80's this would make to much sence I GUESS!

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> could all be caused by the {ESC} module?
The ECU could be bad but I would suspect a coincidental failure of the ignition coil/pack. I don't have info on your car but Haynes has a manual for your car:
95 Buick(s)
The manual will have test specs for the ignition system.
We have a manual in each of three vehicles; wouldn't want to be without them.
> Why can they not just bring back the tandard engine, of the 70's& 80's this would make to much sence I GUESS!
You can thank government (and the price of gas) for this.

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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I'd look at the module inside the distributor and make sure that it's connected. As far as I know there is no test for it so you'd need to replace it if it's in doubt. If the engine overheated before you replaced the pump it could have been enough to cause it to fail. Only other option you have is to get a chilton or haynes manual and go over the entire system and check each component against the parameters they post. (use a digital volt/ohm meter for that)
I remember techs in the 70'and 80's complaining about the changes in systems from the ones used in the 50's and 60"s..... From a standpoint of efficiency, the newer systems are great. The largest problem is that there is little compatibility between vehicles in the same product line and every manufacturer has a "better idea" how to do the same thing. Worse, is that nothing is as reliable as it needs to be. But, what can you expect in a car when they cannot make a million dollar plus computer in a spacecraft work as it should!!

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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