Question about 1984 Nissan 300ZX

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Trying to replace the master clutch cylinder on a 1979 280zx. Having trouble removing the flare nut on the clutch piping to the master cylinder housing. It won't budge. Don't want to round it off, have used liquid wrench with no results. Doesn't seem to be corroded. Any tricks? Thanks for your help.

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280zx -- one of my favorites,, I have owned a few,,, the best trick to loosening I have found is to use a little heat on the fitting ( heat gun or propane torch ). note: always be careful and mindful when using the propane torch as open flames in or around oil and gas can be dangerous -- heat slowly. this will free up the fitting with no problem. ( thermal dynamics :-) ). Happy New Year !!

c...

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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How do i replace clutch master kit?


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Brake and Clutch Pipe removal and Fitting: All Vehicles


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on Feb 10, 2011 | BMW 528 Cars & Trucks

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Hydrolic clutch


The hose is attached to the slave cylinder and the only way to remove it is to firstly loosen the hose on the cylinder then undo the bolts holding the cylinder to the housing and turning the cyl off the hose.As to the pipe in the m/cyl use a pipe spanner and undo the flare nut and screw it out of the m/cyl gently pull the pipe out of the housing taking care not to bend the pipe.

Mar 16, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace mastercylinder'


The master cylinder in your Dodge Caravan is responsible for forcing fluid pressure to the four wheels when you apply the brakes. The master cylinder is also the main storage vessel for brake fluid. If the seals inside your master cylinder develop leaks, you will lose brake pressure internally. This could cause problems for the brake booster, as well as causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor when you press the pedal. The master cylinder can be replaced in about 30 minutes.
  • 1 Press the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal.
  • 2 Open the hood and prop it up with the hood support rod. Locate the master cylinder, which is mounted to the brake booster on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger compartments, just in front of the driver. Spray the top area of the master cylinder liberally with brake cleaner. Push down lightly on the master cylinder filler tube and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
  • 3 Locate the fluid-level sensor connector(s). There may be one or two sensors on your vehicle and they appear as wires, in a plastic housing, plugged into the side of the master cylinder. Remove each connector by depressing the locking clip and pulling straight out from the master cylinder.
  • 4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder by turning the fittings counterclockwise with the flare nut wrench. Gently pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder.
  • 5 Remove the bolts securing the master cylinder to the brake booster by turning the nuts counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Pull the master cylinder straight out, being careful to avoid spilling brake fluid on your vehicle's painted surfaces.
  • 6 Verify that the rubber O-ring seal is in place on the new master cylinder and then slide the master cylinder in place over the mounting studs. Thread the nuts onto the studs by turning them clockwise. Tighten the nuts to 18 foot-pounds. You may have to hold the booster actuator rod in position as you install the master cylinder.
  • 7 Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid and thread the bleeder fittings into the brake line ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Install the rubber tubes onto the fittings and secure the tube ends in the master cylinder filler opening. Make sure the ends of the tubes are completely submerged.
  • 8 Depress the brake pedal a number of times, slowly and evenly, while a helper watches to ensure that no more air escapes from the bleeder tubes. Remove the bleeder fittings by turning them counterclockwise and carefully set them aside. Reconnect the electrical fittings by firmly pushing straight in until they click.
  • 9 Thread the brake lines into the proper ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to approximately 13 foot-pounds with the flare nut wrench. Have your helper press the brake pedal slowly and evenly five times and then hold it. Slowly crack open the front fitting by turning it a quarter-turn with the flare nut wrench and allow the brake pedal to fall to the floor. Have your helper hold the pedal on the floor as you tighten the fitting. Repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear. Repeat this process on the rear port.
    Retighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds. Install the filler tube by placing it on the filler opening and turning it clockwise. Refill the master cylinder to the "Fill" mark or 1/4-inch from the top

Oct 05, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I think i need a master cylinder in my 1994 pontiac bnneville? How hard/easy it it to replace myself. I can purchase ne for around 50-60 dollars.


Yes it is not that hard to replace.

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REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
  1. Retainer and electrical connector from fluid level sensor.
  2. Drain brake fluid front mister cylinder reservoir.
  3. Reservoir hose from master cylinder. Plug hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  4. Brake pipes from master cylinder. Plug open pipes to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  5. Two attaching nuts.
  6. Master cylinder.
  7. Reservoir, if it is to he used on replacement master cylinder.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
  1. Reservoir onto master cylinder, as needed.
  2. Master cylinder on to power booster.
  3. Attaching nuts. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.).
  4. Brake pipes. Tighten brake pipe fittings to 15 Nm (11 lb. ft.).
  5. Reservoir hose onto master cylinder.
  6. Fill master cylinder reservoir to full level mark using only Delco Supreme 11 Brake Fluid, or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid.
  7. Electrical connector to fluid level sensor, secure with retainer.
  8. Bleed hydraulic system.
  9. Recheck fluid level in reservoir
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Mar 09, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

Trying to replace the master clutch cylinder on a 1979 280zx. Having trouble removing the flare nut on the clutch piping to the master cylinder housing. It won't budge. Don't want to round it off, have...


Use the proper flare nut wrench, it's important. If it won't come loose with reasonable pressure heat it up with a propane torch. Heat the nut first, if you can get it slightly red all the better. Quench it with water and try turning it. If it still won't turn heat the MC around the fitting and try again. Brake fluid is flammable and can squirt quite a way when you get heating the lines- wear safety glasses and always have a fire extinguisher at hand when you're using fire on a car.

Be sure that the nut is free to turn on the line- tapping on the line lightly and oiling between it and the nut will help separate them once you get the nut broke loose.

lp

Jan 01, 2011 | Nissan 300ZX Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Mazda e2200 clutch repair: feels like I still have some kind of pedal springback, but without much force. No clutch at all. I assume it is hydraulic, but the only reservoir I see is for the brakes. That is...


Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.

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  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
  3. Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
  4. Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).

Dec 04, 2010 | 1988 Mazda B2200

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Oct 31, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

2001 audi a4 1.9tdi, hi i need to replace my clutch master cylinder for the rod has snapped, but i cant seem to figure out how to remove the clutch and brake pedal so as i can fit the new rod onto the...


YOU NEED A HAYNES MANUAL BECAUSE IT WILL SHOW AND TELL YOU HOW TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.TO REMOVE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU HAVE TO GO INSIDE THE VECHICLE AND REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE UNDER THE DASH PANEL.YOU HAVE TO UNCLIP AND SLIDE OUT PIN SECURING THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL.AND YOU WILL HAVE TO UNSCREW THE MOUNTING BOLTS AND DETACH THE MASTER CYLINDER FROM THE FIRE WALL.YOU WILL NEED HAYNES MANUAL.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE OTHER THINGS BEFORE DOING THE JOB.YOU NEED FLARE OR INLINE WRENCH ALSO.

Jan 29, 2010 | 2001 Audi A4

1 Answer

How to fit a clutch master cylinder for c220 cdi


Remove the three 13mm nuts holding the pedal bracket to the bulkhead, this will give you more room to work but just as it's free to move about a bit. Undo the two 10mm nuts holding the cylinder to the pedal assy and the pipe union at the bottom of the cylinder. Pry off the clutch hose at the fluid reservoir. Release the circlip on the end of the cylinder rod on the pedal.
When you put the new one in feed the hose through first with a piece of wire so you can locate it at the fluid reservoir, loosley connect the union at the bottom of the cly, and pop the end of the cyl rod into place and replace the circlip. now try to relocate the long bolts into the cylinder body, it's a fiddle but can be done. Use a 3/8 drive to undo and re-do the 10 mm nuts as a smaller one seems better but doesn't have the reach. The rest is just common sense.

Aug 01, 2008 | 2000 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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