Question about Nissan 300ZX
Posted by Anonymous on
Use the proper flare nut wrench, it's important. If it won't come loose with reasonable pressure heat it up with a propane torch. Heat the nut first, if you can get it slightly red all the better. Quench it with water and try turning it. If it still won't turn heat the MC around the fitting and try again. Brake fluid is flammable and can squirt quite a way when you get heating the lines- wear safety glasses and always have a fire extinguisher at hand when you're using fire on a car.
Be sure that the nut is free to turn on the line- tapping on the line lightly and oiling between it and the nut will help separate them once you get the nut broke loose.
Posted on Jan 01, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle
Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing
Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.
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