Question about 2002 Mazda Protege

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I need to remove the crank pulley bolt from a Mazda 1.8l 323 (2002 model auto) How do i lock the engine to loosten the bolt?

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  • stewart_wils Dec 31, 2010

    What is your solution to my problem? I will pay if I am satisfied with your answer

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  • Master
  • 466 Answers

There are several ways i can give more details.

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • MOTOR62500 Dec 31, 2010

    do you have a inpact gun? if so you should not need to lock the engine..

  • MOTOR62500 Jan 01, 2011

    do you have a impact gun? if so you will not need to hold engine. if not then you can remove the flywheel cover and with a screwdriver stick it into the teeth and wedge inbetween the teeth and case of transmission. the will take 2 people. one to hold the driver, and one to loosen the crank bolt..

  • MOTOR62500 Jan 01, 2011

    still with me?

  • MOTOR62500 Jan 01, 2011

    were you able to remove bolt?

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1 Answer

How do i remove the timing belt pulley on a mazda 323 200e 8v FE engine please


The timing belt pulley is held on by the Centre crankshaft bolt and slides on with a key way. You may need to use a puller if it is stuck tight.

Apr 29, 2014 | 2004 Mazda 3

Tip

2004 Pilot timing belt replacement



(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Part List :
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

Special Tools Needed:
Honda Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool
3/4" breaker bar

Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.

-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.

-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).

-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)

-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).

-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).

-Remove the crankshaft pulley.

-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).

-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).

-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).

-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).

-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).

-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).

-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).

-Remove the timing belt.

-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).

-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)

-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.

-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.

on Oct 13, 2014 | 2004 Honda Pilot

1 Answer

Need to remove engine


INSTRUCTIONS
First remove the air cleaner assembly and battery, then unplug all the sensors, drain radiator and remove hoses, remove all vacuum lines tie the ac compressor out of the way remove it and the PS pump from the block, then unbolt the exhaust manifold and unbolt the two bolts that secure the oil pan to the exhaust downpipe, remove the starter, then loosten all the bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission, remove the torque converter bolts (if AT) loosten the bolts securing the engine to the transmission, with the engine hoist supporting the engine weight remove the engine mount, if it is an automatic make sure you separate the engine from the torque converter.
It is not really that hard or complicated, just requires patience if you are unfamilar with the procedures it may be helpful for you to review the procedures in a chilton or hanes manual, if none are available check the procedures for a Mazda protege, kia sephia, or a ford escort GT since all these cars and your kia Rio use the Mazda BG designed engine


Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_engine_2002_Kia_Rio#ixzz28LyJkCZX

Oct 04, 2012 | 2006 Kia Rio

1 Answer

How to pull off the crank pulley properly


There are pullers available at most of your auto parts stores that will do the job specifically for that vehicle. Autozone rents them and refunds you for the price you paid, when you bring the tool back. There are at least 2 types of pulleys, but both come off in the same manner.

IF you have your new part & it matches the old one, take it with you to get the loan-a-tool, or to buy a removal tool to ensure it fits.

Of course you need to take off any belts, and remove the Crank bolt. You may want to just loosen the crank bolt and back it out 1/4", and put the main pulley removal bolt against the head of it to keep the threads from the tool going into and crossthreading the crank bolt hole.

You will need to thread 2 or 3 bolts through the removal tool into the inner crank pulley, so that you don't put any pressure on the outer ring of the pulley.

These have to be withdrawn evenly, or they get locked onto the crankshaft. If you think it's cocked sideways a bit, back off the pressure and tap the bolts you screwed into it, not the outer area, to get it straight again and start the removal again.

That could easily damage the Harmonic balancer.

Good luck!

Mar 28, 2012 | 2002 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

I have done engine overhall for my mazda 6 2003.i want to know how set timing and the timing marks?


there are special tools pin to lock crank in correct position and cams have flat plate that goes across into both at rear of cams small section goes up from memory, the cam gears have no dowel pin/locating pin to camshaft you do bolts up last when all are locked in position and grenade pin (locking)pin in tensioner is removed and chain is tight then hold cams with shifter or spanner(wrench) on cam flats and do up cam gear to camshaft bolts on each cam.
hole in front cover just above crank pulley at 11O clock, blind blanking plug must be removed to put in chain tensioner pin, crank blanking plug on your left side when looking at crank pulley(side of block) remove and locking pin goes into there when at TDC no1. and cams should be in position to lock with plate as described above.may not be any timming marks on chains or gears due to the locking tools needed and relied on for correct position.
good luck if you feel confident.
some Mazda dealerships may lend tools if you ask nicely or know some one.

Mar 10, 2011 | 2003 Mazda Mazda6

1 Answer

The Haynes manual I have has TWO pages ripped out I have to replace the timing belt can you help me


from autozone.com:
1990-95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992-95 Prelude
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed. On DOHC Preludes without VTEC, hold each of the camshafts in the TDC position by inserting 5mm diameter punches into the alignment holes just behind each cam pulley.
  3. Remove the splash shield from below the engine.
  4. Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container; cap or cover the container and wipe up spillage.
  5. Unplug the electrical connector at the cruise control actuator, then remove the actuator. Don't disconnect the cable; simply move the actuator out of the work area.
  6. Remove the belt from the power steering pump. Remove the mounting bolts for the pump. Without disconnecting the hoses, move the pump out of the way.
  7. Unplug the alternator wiring and connectors; remove the engine wiring harness from the valve cover.
  8. Loosen the adjusting and mounting bolts for the alternator and/or compressor. Remove the drive belt(s).
  9. Remove the valve cover.
  10. Remove the side engine mount support bracket, if equipped.
  11. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
  12. Support the engine with a floor jack on the oil pan (use a cushion between the jack and pan). Tension the jack so that it is just supporting the engine but not lifting it.
  13. Remove the side engine mount.
  14. Remove the dipstick and dipstick tube.
  15. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
This bolt is one of the tightest on the entire car. The pulley must be held in place while the bolt is loosened. One trick is to wrap an old drive belt around the pulley to hold it steady-don't try this with a belt that is to go back on the car; it will be stretched or damaged.
  1. If necessary for additional clearance to remove the lower timing belt cover, remove the two rear bolts from the center beam. Slowly lower the jack and the engine until the clearance is gained.
  2. Remove the rubber seal from around the belt tension adjusting nut (do not loosen the nut). Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  3. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place using one of the lower cover (6 x 1mm) mounting bolts.
88d9a40.gif

Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts
There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.

  1. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
  2. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine.
To install:
  1. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
  2. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
  3. Except Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
    2. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
  1. On Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt.
Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is1/4fl. oz. (8 ml).
  1. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
  2. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
  3. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
aa17346.gif Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation
  1. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
  2. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures.
Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
  1. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  2. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990-91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992-95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992-95 Preludes.
  4. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following: 1991-93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
  1. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
  2. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
  3. Install the upper belt cover.
  4. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
  5. Install the valve cover.
  6. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
  7. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
  8. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
  9. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
  10. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
  11. Refill the engine coolant.
  12. Install the splash shield under the engine.
  13. Connect the negative battery cable.
  14. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.

Sep 20, 2010 | 1992 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How do you set the timming on a 95 honda accord


1990–95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992–95 Prelude
  1. .
  2. Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts 86803136.gif
    NOTE: There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.
  3. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
  4. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine. To install:
  5. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
  6. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
  7. Except Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
    2. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). NOTE: Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
    3. Tighten the lockbolt installed earlier to lock the timing belt adjuster arm. Remove the crank pulley.
  8. On Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt. NOTE: Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is 1⁄4 fl. oz. (8 ml).
    2. Clamp the mounting flange of the tensioner in a vise using a cloth or blocks of wood to protect it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the maintenance hole. Place the stopper (tool number 14540-P13-003) or an equivalent clamp on the tensioner, then turn the screwdriver clockwise to compress the bottom. Be careful not to damage the threads or the gasket contact surface.
    3. Install the maintenance bolt on the tensioner with a new gasket. Tighten to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
    4. Make sure no oil is leaking from around the maintenance bolt, then install the tensioner on the engine. Make sure the stopper stays in place and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
    5. Remove the stopper. Fig. 11: On VTEC engines, the tensioner must be compressed before installing it on the engine 86803137.gif
      Fig. 12: Remove the stopper after installing the tensioner on the engine 86803138.gif

  9. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
  10. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
  11. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation 86803139.gif

  12. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
  13. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures. NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
  14. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  15. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  16. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990–91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992–95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992–95 Preludes.
  17. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following:
    • 1990 Accord: 166 ft. lbs. (230 Nm)
    • 1991–93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
    • 1992–93 Prelude: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
    • 1994–95 Accord and Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)
  18. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
  19. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
  20. Install the upper belt cover.
  21. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
  22. Install the valve cover.
  23. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
  24. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
  25. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
  26. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
  27. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
  28. Refill the engine coolant.
  29. Install the splash shield under the engine.
  30. Connect the negative battery cable.
  31. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.

Jul 18, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How do i replace a water pump on a 1994 mazda protege


1.u need to jack the car up so u can take the passenger tire off. align the crank timing mark to top dead center with the front timing belt cover. 2. u need to loosen the crank bolt with am impact wrench, or secure the flywheel and lossen the crank bolt .3. u need a 10mm short 1/4 inch socket/or wrench inch to loosen the (4) water pump nuts. 4. i now recommend u loosen the alternator, u do not need to remove it. 5. if u have air-conditioning..i suggest u leave it on. remove the belt 6. powersteering can be loosened as well, 7. once u remove the crank pulley..u can take the 10 mm blots out of the timing belt/water pump covers.u will also need to support the engine(under the oli pan is ok) and remove the upper passenger side motor mount. 8. u will now see the timing belt. u need to remove it by loosening the tension pulley (14 mmm bolt) .u should make sure the crank is tdc. but u just need to make sure that when u re-install the new timing belt(whichu better do when u do a water pump)...,make sure the exhaust and intake cam shaft pulleys are aligned.(exhaust pulley is front side of car, intake is rear.)(e-for exhaust,i -for intake....they're aligned at center of each other (center of engine)now i must take a pee,brb in a minute. remove timing belt now 9. remove (5) 12 mm bolts from water pump. clean surface. 10. re-install in complete reverse order.i do recommend u use a black rtv gasket sealer on ur water pump gasket.(screw manufacturers statements on this use). tart with taking your two belts off, remove motor mount, remove power steering pump, crank pulley,next remove timing belt covers along with tensioners. Remove valve cover. timing belt tensioner, now you have access to the water pump. remember your timing marks before you remove. When installing timing belt hold camshaffts with vise grips to align. installation opposite of removal.



see this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_QfsWd379A

Jan 31, 2010 | 1994 Mazda Protege

1 Answer

How do i get the power steering belt off so i can


chryslers usualy use a spring loaded belt tensioner (Idle pulley) first put a long wrench on the nut/Bolt head holding the pulley on and pull it to loosten,
the bolt is left handed, so if it unscrews turn the other way
If this doesn't work look for a bolt in the block and a curved slot this has to be loostened, some have this lock bolt, some do not, so try twisting the pulley bolt first
If youv'e got a very long pull handle for your socket use it, the bolt's spring is very strong, if not, slip a length of pipr over your normal socket wrench
Should be easy once the pulley slacks off,
be careful of that spring, loosten your grip and it'l smack you a good one

Jul 31, 2009 | 1997 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

I have a mitsibishi verada1997 - i need to change the fanbelt on top its fraying..can you help


the pulley between the crank and the air cond compressor is the tensioner, loosten the bolt in the middle of this pulley and from underneath the engine near the oil filter there is a 14mm bolt, unwind this and it will release the tension of the belt, replace the belt, tension with this 14mm bolt and tighten up the pulley.

Mar 19, 2009 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant

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