I have a 2004 Chevy Impala LS. The brakes (all 4) were replaced in March 2008. The pads that were used were Wagner. When the brakes got about 1000 miles on them, they started making a "cliking" sound like the pads were not attached and loose. took the car back to the (reputable) mechanic and the brake pads were replaced. After another 1000 miles, the "cliking" started again. Took it back, pads & rotors were changed. 1000 miles, "cliking" again. Put AC Delco pads on. We are 1000 miles again the cliking is there again. With the old original brakes there was never a sound. What could be causing this? Is there a GM phone # that my mechanic can call?
I did a complet brake job on my 2004 Chevrolet Impala about two weeks ago, and i still have warning light on. Thw system is working great. So how do I turn off the warning Lights, Traction off light, Brake light, and in warning center Low brake fuild?
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You open the bleeder valve
Then you need a tool, to turn in the parking brake ratchet,clockwise
As your turning in the piston,it will also push back into the caliper
After you have pads on,ratchet up P-Brake by hand
Then bleed all 4 wheels
You do not bleed ABS,but you do however have motor running
and a helper to slowly press brake pedal, as you open and close
bleeder approx 10 times,until clear fluid and no air.
Do this every 2 years (bleed)
You will not find an LS tool. Buy the $9.00 square combo cheapy
and file a little off one of the two pin sides, to fit
When you turn the piston, be sure the notch is up,I think,so the pad pin goes over it
Use Raybestos Ceramic Pads on front and back
Backs were Ceramic OEM and fronts work well and no dust.
Sand off all rust everywhere,anti-seize on all caliper mounting stainless
slippers and pad ends.
Both sides of rotors,back of wheels etc.
May have to file off paint from pad ends, to get a nice fit and sliding free
Well, when I have a screeching problem, I try to use Wagner Thermoquiet brake pads that have the shim built in, instead of standard ones.
They seem to stop more quietly than other brands.
The technicians that say that there is nothing wrong are probably just measuring the thickness of the brake discs, and the thickness of the brake pads, and maybe look at the surface of the brake discs for glazing, and don't want to replace parts unnecessarily.
So, I would ask them about this problem and see if they can install the Thermoquiet Wagner brake pads to rectify the problem.
ABS has more to do with pulsing 5 to 6 times a second when trying to come to a halt to avoid locking the brakes. I don't think that it is the cause of your screeching sound coming from the front.
Hello, to replace the rear brake pads follow the following steps:
1. Lift the Chevy Impala with the jack and place it on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheels with a lug-nut wrench and set them aside. The lug-nut wrench can be found in the trunk of your Chevy Impala.
3. Remove the caliper with a ratchet and use a bungee cord to hang the caliper. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose, as the hose might break and cause fluid to leak.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket from the steering knuckle with a ratchet. Set it aside.
5. Remove the break rotor from the hub. The rotor might require force to be removed; if it does, use a hammer to hit the rotor in the center, where the lug studs are located. Take care not to hit the studs.
6. Remove the new rotor from its packaging and use brake cleaner to remove the grease from the rotor. Grease is applied on the rotor in the factory to inhibit rust during storage.
7. Install the new rotor onto the hub.
8. Install the caliper bracket with new brake pads onto the rotor and fasten it to the steering knuckle. Use a ratchet to tighten the bolts.
9. Open the master cylinder reservoir so you don't break a seal while compressing the brake caliper.
10. Compress the brake caliper with a C-clamp, so that the caliper can fit over the new brake pads. Install the caliper by securing it to the brake caliper bracket with a ratchet.
There is no set mileage, many factors come into play. Weight of car, driving habits, where you are driving (highway/city) all determine how long they will last.
However, one rule generally applies: You will go through two sets of front brake pads for every one set of rear pads. This is because the majority of a cars braking happens in the front. Most pads have wear indicators, softer metal that makes contact, and sound, when the pads are getting low. Keep your ear out for this strange grinding sound. It's time to replace the pads! Hope this helps.
The best way to answer you question is to tell you to take the vehicle to your nearest dealer and inquire with the parts dept. I can tell you that on the ffront of your car you have rotors and the brake used on the front is called a pad. Also your vehicle does not have a separate parking brake. It is the same as the regular rear brake no matter which type of brakes you have on the back.