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How to change a rear flexible brake pipe on an A4 1.9 diesel

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Undo in chassis first ,use the special brake pipe spanners for this then a clip to pull ouy ,drop end from holder ,its pushes up then their is a shaped end on the flex pipe to hold it in place ,then remove from other end ,simple ten minute job

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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Adjust rear brakes


This will not cause the problem even if filled with engine oil ,no you have another problem here like corrosion or a flexible brake pipe with a internal collapse ,maybe even a faulty master cylinder which is a tandem type .So have a good look or enlist the services of a local mechanic .

Jul 25, 2013 | Volvo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Left rear brake wont bleed, no pressure. right rear brake ok


First check that the bleeder screw and the bleeder hole in the brake cylinder are not blocked. If these are clear check that the flexible pipe to that wheel has not collapsed internally and created a non-return valve. Check also the brake pressure equaliser valve that it has not jammed and that the operating lever moves freely (although this would affect both rear wheels unless it is a cross-over brake system). If none of the above help, follow the brake pipe from the left rear wheel and loosen connections till you bet a flow of fluid when the pedal is depressed, then work back from there to locate the blockage.

Jan 17, 2011 | 1992 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

Rear wheel cylinder, brake pads and master cyclinder replaced. Have attempted to bleed the brakes numerous time. One rear brake continues to **** air. What could be the problem?


either the flexible pipe is split or the nut on the pipe loose ,,but then it would leak ,or you havent bleed it properly,??? doubt it though?? leave vehicle overnight with a something heavy on brake pedal and see what happens

Sep 21, 2010 | Ford F-350 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1998 Lincoln Navigator, brake light on, filled fluid resevoir light went off, next day came back on. Brakes spongy. Replaced pads front and rear at 87,000 miles, currently at 111,000


Not completely sure here as i cannot see it but i would hazard a guess and say that the master cylinder needs changing ,but check the fluid level first and if low again then you have a fluid leak but where ?? could be a caliper seal or the master cylinder leaking out of the rear seal and its being sucked into the air intake via the servo vacumn pipe?? could even be a flexible pipe split or a damaged brake pipe ,Evan if pads on metal you should still have a hard pedal ,Have a good look around to see if its leaking first

Jun 14, 2010 | 1998 Lincoln Navigator

1 Answer

Pulls to left repaced brakes exchanged wheels and had realiegned still the same.


its either the flexible brake pipes are closing up inside ,very badly worn lower track control arm bushes or the ma ster cylinder but it depends if its a tandem front and rear or tandem one front and one rear ,another cause is a seized caliper -now was one tight to go back in when the new pads were fitted ??if so then it could be either the seal in the caliper has corroded in the seal seat path or again the flexible pipe ,if caliper goes in easy when the bleed nipple is undone then its the flexible pipe .their is nothing else that will cause this unless you have a badly worn disk but even so i have not had worn disks cause this but i have had a different carbon content in the steel of the disks before now but it is very rare ,i would go for the flexible hoses first as this is about 90% of the problems

Jun 06, 2010 | 1994 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

I have a 2000 Honda Odyssey in the UK. British


Hi I'm using Google Translate.
Can you use Used parts? If so try copart.com or partsfinder.com
New brake line comes as a strait tube. The line will need the be removed and the new line bent to match.
But before you do that try one more thing. Google Tempe Honda - Tempe, AZ.

English to Ukrainian translation
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May 31, 2010 | 2000 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Rear wheel (left) brake fluid leak


First of all determine where the leak originates. At the outset make a mental note that the brake fluid will need bleeding at some point since if the fluid can leak out it is likely that air can bleed in. Air in the brake fluid is to be avoided as it impairs good brake function. First of all get the whole area clean. Use a small wire brush to remove all loose corrosion. Now check that there is plenty of brake fluid on the reservoir container above the brake under the hood, top it up as needed. 1) Bleed screw : Have a friend apply pressure on the brake pedal and undo (yes undo) the bleed screw just a quarter turn. Release about a quarter of a cup of fluid and then re-tighten the nipple before (this is important) the pressure is taken off the pedal. Clean everything with a cloth and tighten the bleed screw no ore than an extra quarter turn if this was the source of the leak. Check by standing on the brake pedal. 2) Caliper union : The flexible hose screws directly into the caliper and if it is leaking at the caliper just give it an extra tighten and then carry out (1) above. 3) Pipe Union : the other end of the flexible hose goes through a bracket and connects with the metal brake line. If tightening here, hold the metal junction of the flexible pipe steady and then tighten the brake line union nut. Do not be tempted to just tighten the nut on its own as the junction is liable to rotate within the bracket. 4) Brake pipe : Most brake pipes are made of steel (??!!) which as we know eventually corrodes. Most corrosion of brake pipes occurs either at unions or at brackets where water and salt can get to work. The only recourse is to change the brake pipe for a new length. 5) Caliper body : the seal between the piston and the caliper cylinder can sometimes be compromised by corrosion. You will need to remove the caliper/slave cylinder from the car to carry out a thorough inspection.

May 25, 2010 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

I would like to get a service plan chart for a vw polo (i.e at 90,000km what requires attention besides oil change) plus the possible price


rear brake drums removed and checked .plus front disks checked ,brake pipes painted ,oil anything that moves ,flexible brakes pipes inspected ,clean bulbs in lights .empty ashtray -----

Sep 10, 2009 | 2003 Volkswagen Euro Passenger

1 Answer

"I just had a new brake booster Master Cylinder rear wheel cylinders and rear brake shoes installed, I drove 3 miles and the back brakes locked up. What can this be? 1998 chrysler sybring


Sorry to but in BUT

is this a high mileage car from what you discribe new Servo, Master Cylinder, Cylinders and rear brakes.????

Try the rear flexible brake pipe/s OLD RUBBER DELAMINATES well worth the swop. For the cost

360 Volvos used to be good at this one only after a brake fluid change

Old British Mechanic

May 08, 2009 | 1998 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

4w disk normal driving brakes ok.


check that when on turn the flexible pipes to the front calipers are not swelling out with the pressure where the flexible pipe is blocking up when twisting with the suspension/steering.Had same fault on a seat 124 many years ago

Jan 03, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

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