Question about 2004 Chevrolet Colorado

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Coolant is quickly leaking from underside of engine. Upon visual inspection, no hoses were found to be leaking or cracked. I have a 2004 Chevy Colorado and my coolant pump i on the underside of the engine. The only place it looks to be leaking from is the seal between the engine and the pump. Does this sound right?

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It looks like the water pump gasket is damaged. If you had an overheat, propably it spoiled the gasket. If not it could be a damaged water pump. You can try listening to the motor on and placing your ear near the water pump to see if there is a funny or metal to metal noise, in this case you would have to change your water pump. If not try to get the gasket and when you take the pump out, check the same for easy and soft running. If it is sticky, I recommend you change the water pumpbecausse it will give you some trouble in the future.

Remember to buy a gasket sealant and put the same in both sides of the gasket, in the pump and in the motor.

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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The water pump has a bleed hole on the under side, which is where the coolant is comming from.
This usually happens when the bearing is failing. It may have been leaking slightly for some time. Slowly getting worse is the norm. But it's possible the seal failed suddenly too.

You need to replace the water pump.

Posted on Dec 31, 2010


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Things to test when checking cooling system

<p>A leak detection additive is available through the parts department that can be added to cooling system. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light) (1). Pour one ounce of additive into cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT position. Start and operate engine until the radiator upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially available black light tool at components to be checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.<br /> <p>The black light can be used in conjunction with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist .<br /> <p><b>PRESSURE TESTER METHOD</b><br />he engine should be at normal operating temperature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant loss is not located during the warm engine examination. <br /> WARNING <p> HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.<br /> <p>Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from the filler neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to disengage it from the stop tabs. Wipe the inside of filler neck and examine the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.<br /> <p>Inspect cams on the outside of filler neck. If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap valve and tester seal will be affected.<br /> <p>Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to radiator filler neck (1).<br /> <p>Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi) pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condition of the cooling system according to the following criteria:<br /> <p><b>Holds Steady:</b> If the pointer remains steady for two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in system. However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with normal system test pressure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to <a>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</a>.<br /> <p><b>Drops Slowly:</b> Indicates a small leak or seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak holes and inspect system again with pressure applied.<br /> <p><b>Drops Quickly:</b> Indicates that serious leakage is occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a reputable radiator repair shop.<br /> <a></a> <p><b>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</b><br /> <p>Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a short period to churn the oil. After this is done, remove engine dipstick and inspect for water globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for water globules and the transmission fluid cooler for leakage.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 KPA (21 PSI). PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE, ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. 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This would be emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.<br /> <p>A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into cooling system is provided by a commercially available Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers instructions when using this product.<br /> <p><b>COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER</b><br /> <p>DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.<br /> <p>Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat removal(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove accessory drive belt or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).<br /> <p>Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> CAUTION <p> Avoid overheating. Do not operate engine for an excessive period of time. Open draincock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.<br /> <p>Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leaking into cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bubbles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage is not present.

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Possibility of a cracked block. how can i be sure/

Vehicles: Any with the above symptoms

A cracked cylinder block will cause either:
(a) motor oil contamination of engine coolant
(b) coolant contamination of motor oil
(c) white exhaust smoke, due to coolant seeping into one or more cylinders.
(d) more than one of the above
(e) all of the above

Oil infiltrating into coolant is easy to see - drain some coolant out through the pepcock at the bottom of the radiator, and place it into a styrofoam coffee cup. Oil droplets floating on top of the green (or orange) coolant are easily seen. Or visualize oil by looking into the top of the radiator through the radiator cap.
Coolant infiltrating into and mixing with motor oil will permanently damage the engine (seizing it up through loss of lubrication), and must be prevented.
A leak from above the front suspension is, as physicians like to put it, "nonspecific", with the most likely cause a water pump seal or hose/hose connection.
A leak from near the fire wall will usually be a heater core hose, or hose connection.
A coolant leak on the same side of the engine as the water pump is a leaking water pump or water pump seal until proven otherwise.

To rule out everythng else, here's the 1999 Honda CR-V Troubleshooting Guide for Coolant Loss/Coolant Leaking:

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Water Pump - Worn, Cracked or Leaking Water Pump, or Water Pump gasket.
2 Inspect Head Gasket - Leaking Head Gasket.
3 Inspect Radiator - Leaking Radiator Hose(s).
4 Inspect Radiator Cap - Worn or Damaged Radiator Cap.
5 Inspect Radiator Hose - Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Radiator Hose.
6 Inspect Freeze Plug - Leaking Freeze Plug(s).
7 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket - Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
8 Inspect Water Outlet - Cracked, Leaking or Damaged Water Outlet.
9 Inspect Heater Control Valve - Leaking or Faulty Heater Control Valve.
10 Inspect Radiator Drain Pepcock - Loose, Damaged, or Faulty Radiator Drain Pepcock, or Pepcock O-ring.
11 Inspect Engine (DOMESTIC ONLY) - Cracked Cylinder Block Leaking Coolant into at least one Cylinder, causing white exhaust smoke.

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Hello moltn, quite often people completely fill their coolant reservoir, ( the plastic bottle with the cap that says, " coolant " ), If you haven't already, make sure that the coolant level in the reservoir isn't over the FULL line. When it is overfilled, and the engine runs for a few minutes, the heat builds some pressure and forces the extra coolant out through an overfill hose. That overfill hose usually drains, on the ground, in the general area your leak is comming from.
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Next, we need to find out if it leaks all the time, or, if it only leaks under pressure, ( when the engine is running and warmed up ).

Start the vehicle just long enough to back it up 2 or 3 feet and then turn the engine back off. Raise the hood and visually inspect the area where you seem to leaking from. Allow about 10 minutes and then look to see if you have a new puddle under the vehicle.

If it's a non-pressure leak, you should be able to spot it right away, most likely a loose hose clamp, If so, first look closely at the condition of the hose, if it looks okay go ahead and tighten the clamp, ( you often only need about 1 full turn on the screw/nut that tightens the clamp.)
As rubber hoses age they lose some of their integrity, so clamp should be checked atleast every six months.

If you find nothing leaking, it is likely a pressure leak that is often the result of the engine and coolant reaching their operating temperature and as they do the heat builds perssure and will usually force coolant out of any weak links in the cooling system.

Let the engine run 6 to 8 minutes to allow the vehicle to get to its normal operating temperature.
Look at your temperature gauge, your needle should be about in the middle. Go back and look in the engine compartment again and visually inspect for signs of leaks. You should be able to locate any pressure leaks at this point. As before, if you locate the leak, and it is at a hose, do a good visual inspection of the hose, and the clamp.

Good luck my friend!

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It could be either hose or the pump. Introduce no more antifreeze to this car until you have found your leak as you are just wasting your money.

You are going to have to visually inspect it for the leak. Typically if it is a pump, the pulley and the underside of the pump will be wet.

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  • At 40,000 Use this Sheet


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