Question about 2004 Chevrolet Colorado

2 Answers

Coolant is quickly leaking from underside of engine. Upon visual inspection, no hoses were found to be leaking or cracked. I have a 2004 Chevy Colorado and my coolant pump i on the underside of the engine. The only place it looks to be leaking from is the seal between the engine and the pump. Does this sound right?

Posted by on

Ad

2 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 15 Answers

It looks like the water pump gasket is damaged. If you had an overheat, propably it spoiled the gasket. If not it could be a damaged water pump. You can try listening to the motor on and placing your ear near the water pump to see if there is a funny or metal to metal noise, in this case you would have to change your water pump. If not try to get the gasket and when you take the pump out, check the same for easy and soft running. If it is sticky, I recommend you change the water pumpbecausse it will give you some trouble in the future.

Remember to buy a gasket sealant and put the same in both sides of the gasket, in the pump and in the motor.

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 1,082 Answers

The water pump has a bleed hole on the under side, which is where the coolant is comming from.
This usually happens when the bearing is failing. It may have been leaking slightly for some time. Slowly getting worse is the norm. But it's possible the seal failed suddenly too.

You need to replace the water pump.

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Overheating coolant leak


Get another inspection opinion from an independent shop...A gallon leak in a short period can be found visually and with proper inspection...DO NOT VALUE THE INFO that you currently have:(

Feb 24, 2014 | Infiniti G35 Cars & Trucks

Tip

Things to test when checking cooling system


<p>A leak detection additive is available through the parts department that can be added to cooling system. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light) (1). Pour one ounce of additive into cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT position. Start and operate engine until the radiator upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially available black light tool at components to be checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.<br /> <p>The black light can be used in conjunction with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist .<br /> <p><b>PRESSURE TESTER METHOD</b><br />he engine should be at normal operating temperature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant loss is not located during the warm engine examination. <br /> WARNING <p> HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.<br /> <p>Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from the filler neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to disengage it from the stop tabs. Wipe the inside of filler neck and examine the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.<br /> <p>Inspect cams on the outside of filler neck. If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap valve and tester seal will be affected.<br /> <p>Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to radiator filler neck (1).<br /> <p>Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi) pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condition of the cooling system according to the following criteria:<br /> <p><b>Holds Steady:</b> If the pointer remains steady for two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in system. However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with normal system test pressure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to <a>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</a>.<br /> <p><b>Drops Slowly:</b> Indicates a small leak or seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak holes and inspect system again with pressure applied.<br /> <p><b>Drops Quickly:</b> Indicates that serious leakage is occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a reputable radiator repair shop.<br /> <a></a> <p><b>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</b><br /> <p>Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a short period to churn the oil. After this is done, remove engine dipstick and inspect for water globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for water globules and the transmission fluid cooler for leakage.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 KPA (21 PSI). PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE, ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.<br /> <p>Operate the engine without the pressure cap on the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair as necessary.<br /> <p>If there is not an immediate pressure increase, pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi). Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage into cooling system.<br /> <p>Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, <b>do not</b> remove spark plug cables or short out cylinders to isolate compression leak.<br /> <p>If the needle on the dial of pressure tester does not fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.<br /> <p>A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into cooling system is provided by a commercially available Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers instructions when using this product.<br /> <p><b>COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER</b><br /> <p>DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.<br /> <p>Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat removal(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove accessory drive belt or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).<br /> <p>Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> CAUTION <p> Avoid overheating. Do not operate engine for an excessive period of time. Open draincock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.<br /> <p>Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leaking into cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bubbles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage is not present.

on Jan 20, 2011 | Subaru Legacy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Antifreeze leakage


ADD TEST EQUIPMENT,PRESSURE TEST SYSTEM & VISUALLY INSPECT FOR LEAK(s)
PRESSURE TEST RADIATOR/EXPANSION TANK CAP,
INSPECT COOLANT & HEATER HOSES,
INSPECT BYPASS/MISC. COOLANT HOSES/PIPES,

Feb 07, 2014 | 1999 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Possibility of a cracked block. how can i be sure/


Vehicles: Any with the above symptoms

A cracked cylinder block will cause either:
(a) motor oil contamination of engine coolant
(b) coolant contamination of motor oil
(c) white exhaust smoke, due to coolant seeping into one or more cylinders.
(d) more than one of the above
(e) all of the above

Oil infiltrating into coolant is easy to see - drain some coolant out through the pepcock at the bottom of the radiator, and place it into a styrofoam coffee cup. Oil droplets floating on top of the green (or orange) coolant are easily seen. Or visualize oil by looking into the top of the radiator through the radiator cap.
Coolant infiltrating into and mixing with motor oil will permanently damage the engine (seizing it up through loss of lubrication), and must be prevented.
A leak from above the front suspension is, as physicians like to put it, "nonspecific", with the most likely cause a water pump seal or hose/hose connection.
A leak from near the fire wall will usually be a heater core hose, or hose connection.
A coolant leak on the same side of the engine as the water pump is a leaking water pump or water pump seal until proven otherwise.

To rule out everythng else, here's the 1999 Honda CR-V Troubleshooting Guide for Coolant Loss/Coolant Leaking:

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Water Pump - Worn, Cracked or Leaking Water Pump, or Water Pump gasket.
2 Inspect Head Gasket - Leaking Head Gasket.
3 Inspect Radiator - Leaking Radiator Hose(s).
4 Inspect Radiator Cap - Worn or Damaged Radiator Cap.
5 Inspect Radiator Hose - Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Radiator Hose.
6 Inspect Freeze Plug - Leaking Freeze Plug(s).
7 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket - Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
8 Inspect Water Outlet - Cracked, Leaking or Damaged Water Outlet.
9 Inspect Heater Control Valve - Leaking or Faulty Heater Control Valve.
10 Inspect Radiator Drain Pepcock - Loose, Damaged, or Faulty Radiator Drain Pepcock, or Pepcock O-ring.
11 Inspect Engine (DOMESTIC ONLY) - Cracked Cylinder Block Leaking Coolant into at least one Cylinder, causing white exhaust smoke.

Dec 03, 2011 | 1999 Honda CR-V

2 Answers

Was surrounded by smoke in my car and coolant leaked on the passenger side of the car. What is wrong with it? 98 Cadillac Deville. I checked the path I was driving the there was a trail of water and...


you have damage in heater cor system you can cancel it by pass two hose gose to cabine temporary to avoid overheat your engine ,then you have to replace heater cor down dashboard

Jun 20, 2011 | 1998 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

I hve water leaking from the rear of my engine on my 98 expedition


Hello moltn, quite often people completely fill their coolant reservoir, ( the plastic bottle with the cap that says, " coolant " ), If you haven't already, make sure that the coolant level in the reservoir isn't over the FULL line. When it is overfilled, and the engine runs for a few minutes, the heat builds some pressure and forces the extra coolant out through an overfill hose. That overfill hose usually drains, on the ground, in the general area your leak is comming from.
If that is NOT the problem;

Next, we need to find out if it leaks all the time, or, if it only leaks under pressure, ( when the engine is running and warmed up ).

Start the vehicle just long enough to back it up 2 or 3 feet and then turn the engine back off. Raise the hood and visually inspect the area where you seem to leaking from. Allow about 10 minutes and then look to see if you have a new puddle under the vehicle.

If it's a non-pressure leak, you should be able to spot it right away, most likely a loose hose clamp, If so, first look closely at the condition of the hose, if it looks okay go ahead and tighten the clamp, ( you often only need about 1 full turn on the screw/nut that tightens the clamp.)
As rubber hoses age they lose some of their integrity, so clamp should be checked atleast every six months.

If you find nothing leaking, it is likely a pressure leak that is often the result of the engine and coolant reaching their operating temperature and as they do the heat builds perssure and will usually force coolant out of any weak links in the cooling system.

Let the engine run 6 to 8 minutes to allow the vehicle to get to its normal operating temperature.
Look at your temperature gauge, your needle should be about in the middle. Go back and look in the engine compartment again and visually inspect for signs of leaks. You should be able to locate any pressure leaks at this point. As before, if you locate the leak, and it is at a hose, do a good visual inspection of the hose, and the clamp.

Good luck my friend!

Jan 16, 2011 | 1998 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

How can you tell if your water pump is bad. Boxster running hot. Steam coming out of side vents. I waited and allowed engine to cool. Without starting it, refilled with antifreeze and antifreeze is leaking...


It could be either hose or the pump. Introduce no more antifreeze to this car until you have found your leak as you are just wasting your money.

You are going to have to visually inspect it for the leak. Typically if it is a pump, the pulley and the underside of the pump will be wet.

Jan 27, 2010 | 1997 Porsche Boxster

1 Answer

I have antifreeze going somewhere not water pump or hoses or radiator, I have checked all the common stuff. It also is very rough running when I first start it up which makes me suspect a cracked head or...


Pretty much can't tell unless the head is removed. Depending upon where the gasket may have failed, you may or may not have any coolant intermix.
if you don't, that is good as coolant in the oil can do bad things to the engine bearings. Once the head has been removed you can do a quick visual inspection but best is to have the head checked for cracks and warpage before putting it back in service.

Dec 05, 2009 | Ford Aerostar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

30000 MILE CHECK UP , WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE ?


  • At 40,000 Use this Sheet

MAINTENANCE II

1. CHANGE ENGINE OIL AND FILTER. Reset oil life system. Refer to Engine Oil Life System. An Emission Control Service. 2. VISUALLY CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS OR DAMAGE. A fluid loss in any vehicle system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired and the fluid level checked. Add fluid if needed. 3. INSPECT ENGINE AIR CLEANER FILTER. If necessary, replace filter. An Emission Control Service. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle's useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded. 4. CHECK TIRE INFLATION PRESSURES AND WEAR. 5. INSPECT BRAKE SYSTEM. Visually inspect brake lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors for surface condition. Inspect other brake parts, including calipers, parking brake, etc. 6. CHECK ENGINE COOLANT AND WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID LEVELS AND ADD FLUID AS NEEDED. 7. PERFORM ANY NEEDED ADDITIONAL SERVICES. Refer to Additional Required Services. 8. INSPECT SUSPENSION AND STEERING COMPONENTS. Visually inspect front and rear suspension and steering system for damaged, loose or missing parts or signs of wear. Inspect power steering lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. 9. INSPECT ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM. Visually inspect hoses and have them replaced if they are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes, fittings and clamps. To help ensure proper operation, a pressure test of the cooling system and pressure cap and cleaning the outside of the radiator and air conditioning condenser is recommended at least once a year. 10. INSPECT WIPER BLADES. Visually inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or miss areas of the windshield. 11. INSPECT RESTRAINT SYSTEM COMPONENTS. Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced. Also look for any opened or broken air bag coverings, and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.) 12. LUBRICATE BODY COMPONENTS. Lubricate all key lock cylinders, hood latch assembly, secondary latch, pivots, spring anchor, release pawl, rear compartment hinges, outer liftgate handle pivot points, rear door detent link, roller mechanism, liftgate handle pivot points, latch bolt, fuel door hinge, cargo door hinge, locks and folding seat hardware. More frequent lubrication may be required when exposed to a corrosive environment. Applying silicone grease on weather-strips with a clean cloth will make them last longer, seal better and not stick or squeak. 13. REPLACE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT AIR FILTER. If you drive regularly under dusty conditions, the filter may require replacement more often.

Aug 04, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Corvette

2 Answers

2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.0L- loosing coolant


intake manifold boltsare loose goto alldata.diy.com to confirm soulution.

Jun 24, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet C2500

Not finding what you are looking for?
2004 Chevrolet Colorado Logo

227 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Chevrolet Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76846 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22246 Answers

Ronny Bennett Sr.
Ronny Bennett Sr.

Level 3 Expert

6927 Answers

Are you a Chevrolet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...