Question about 2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500

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Knock at or near # 8 cylinder almost sounds like short on plug but checked plug & wire and they seem ok, even started with plug wire off and still knocks, any thoughts? Once it warms up it does get quiter but can still hear from outside.

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Hello i can assist you sounds like you have a piston push rod bushing that has become loose or worn sometimes the piston retainer clips come loose and the rod knocks.However to examine this problem the engine will have to be disassembled this is a very big job even for a qualified mechanic.my solution is have an estimate to determine weather you want to fix your problem.It was my pleasure to assist you.

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

4200 chev knock but not arod


Could be piston or piston land knock pull plug wires or coil wire plug if diffent coils find out if thr knock changes sounds as you connect fireing plug wire on and off thus killing spark to individual cylinders you will jear tje sound if its on a cylinder. In paryicular to note .once found then decide to examine why also the main bearing end play may allow the crankshaft to movr forward too far if worn out or worn on crank cheek the last think is tapered rod thhrow causes a knock when particulare cylinder fires do the spark test uses ears to determine..all old chevy V8s whithe mechanical fuel pumps with push rods had a knock you could hear dam easy okay take a toilet plunger handle off plunger put one enf om motor while its rumning then put your ear om the other end listen to valve cover thrn by the intake near head move up and down engine then listen on bottom of oil sump pan you can find oit where noise is loudest the remove something to check whats really wrong good luck

Jan 08, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Codes P0325, P0330, P0300, P0308, P1404, P0058. I know. ..just went to get my oil change the mechanic told me he had found the engine light with those codes. It's a 2005 Dodge Durango V8-287 4.7L SOHC. I...


These codes are telling you that you are having cylinders misfiring..And the knock sensor is picking up detonation knocks..with all these codes your engine must be running really bad.. Start by checking your spark plugs.. spark plug wires, coils.. EGR system. If you allow this condition to continue it will ruin youir cats.. a very costly repair. Check to see which cylinder is misfiring.. One of the codes indicated it was #8 cylindler. run the engine and disconnect the spark plug.. if there is no change or very little change in how the engine is running.. try moving the wire to another plug and moving that plug wire to the #8.. If the Problem travels with the wire.. its the wire.. if #8 still has the problem.check the plug and coil... Keep looking until you find the ofending cylinders and repair them.. Check to make sure the hoses are hooked up to your EGR and it is functioning... post a comment here and let us know how you are doing.

May 26, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Knocking Engine


Pull a plug and check to make sure that you put the correct plugs in. If they were the incorrect heat range you can burn off the electrode and it could have got stuck in the valve, causing the knocking sound. Use a long 3/4 extension as a stethoscope to try and locate which side of the engine the sound is comming from. Then do a compression check to find the cylinder with the stuck valve.
Pull a plug and check to make sure that you put the correct plugs in. If they were the incorrect heat range you can burn off the electrode and it could have got stuck in the valve, causing the knocking sound. Use a long 3/4 extension as a stethoscope to try and locate which side of the engine the sound is coming from. Then do a compression check to find the cylinder with the stuck valve.

Jan 14, 2014 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

I have cylinder 2 misfire changed spark plug seemed ok for a while then started missing again i some times here slight knocking sound leaks antifreez very little


There is a long list of possible problems, so you may need a mechanic for this one.
The leaking coolant could be damaging the spark plug, the injector could be faulty, the coil or plug wire could be faulty, and so on.

Jul 01, 2012 | Oldsmobile Aurora Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 oldsmobile silhouette 3.4 liter engine problems it has a knock and miss but it is coming from the top of the moter it sounds like to me. do you think it is cam problem?


can you tell what cylinder has the miss fire?
if not take a test light and at the coil pack VERY CAREFULLY slide the test light between the PLUG WIRE AND THE BOOT this will SHORT OUT THE CYLINDERS ONE AT A TIME
now when you short out a GOOD CYLINDER it will shutter and miss fire
when you short out the CYLINDER THAT IS THE PROBLEM NOTHING WILL HAPPEN
ok now you know what cylinder is the problem remove that valve cover and check for a rocker arm that may have pulled the threads out of the cylinder head this could be the knocking you hear also check and make sure the push rod is not bent
if all the rocker arms are secure then have some one crank it over and watch and make sure you have good valvetrain movement
if you have no movement on one of the rocker arms then you have a camshaft problem
hope this helps good luck
and if you have anymore questions let me know

Feb 11, 2010 | 2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette

1 Answer

Mine has 217,000 miles. Has run great up until some time ago, when it started driving roughly only in wet weather. Now in dry weather, it starts fine, but drives roughly after warmed up (15-20 min) and...


The knock sensor NEVER causes a drivability problem. DO NOT change it. Instead, clean the MAF, Mass Air Flow sesnor that's on the air intake tube near air cleaner. It is coated with varnish. Spray with carb cleaner several times and gently, gently brush the wires. Theya re glass coated. Be careful.

Then disconnect battery for 2 hours and then reconnect and drive for 0 miles for computer to relearn engine contrils.

Also go here for more help
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Dec 27, 2009 | 2000 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

2003 Tahoe, 5.3 liter vortec flex fuel. Engine replaced at 60k miles due to low end knock (typical late model GM). Scanner shows mutiple misfires on all 8 cylinders and erratic timing. Rough idle....


this is a comon problem on chevy 00-06 models a computer ground ,it seems ok at sight but inside it's just holding a few wires ,get under the car on the driver side passenger there you should find a two ground wire goin to the block a big, and a small ,the small one gets coroded try to fix it and let me know how it goes ok.

Nov 09, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe

2 Answers

Checking the fault codes


Yes.  Next to the ash tray there is a black slide off plate that reveals the OBD I plug.  {1996 and newer can be read with an OBD II reader (read for free at Advance auto or Auto Zone)}  Once you reveal this plug on the 1995, you can plug in a single jumper wire (or even a paper clip) in the #4 and #15 pin hole.  There are two rows of pin holes, count from the upper right to the #4, then on to #15 (which will be the second to last pin hole).  Turn the ignition switch on (motor not running), insert the jumper wire for about 3 to 5 seconds, then remove the wire.  The ENGINE LIGHT will flash a hold, then the code, which will go something like this, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, flash, flash.  Then it will repeat the codes if you just sit there and observe it.  The code in my example would be a 2214 code.
Below are some code I found on a website.  I hope this helps.  Now I ask that you take the time to answer someone elses question.  Lets all share.  Good luck, "Peace through power and knowledge"

CODE FAULT
0000 End of fault sequence
1111 Bad ground to Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or ECU failure-check grounds or replace
ECU
1119 Transmission Range - Defective wiring. Check for break or short.
1213 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the wiring of
the instrument cluster
1231 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (G54) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the
wiring of the instrument cluster
1232 Throttle Position Actuator - Check defective actuator or wiring for break or short.
2111 Engine speed sender. (RPM)
2112 Ignition reference sender
2113 Hall sender - No speed signal from distributor; check Hall sensor and circuits or the
Air-flow sensor plate is not moving freely; adjust potentiometer or lever.
2114 Hall sender not on reference point or distributor out of position.
2121 Idle switch - check switch & circuit.
2122 Hall sender - Check wiring for break or short.
2123 Full throttle switch; check switch & circuit.
2132 Electronic Control Module (ECM) - No ignition to injection signal.
2141 Knock sensor 1 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2142 Knock sensor 1 signal - Test sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2143 Knock sensor 2 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2144 Knock sensor 2 signal; test sensor.
2212 Throttle Potentiometer - Value out of range.
2214 RPM Signal - Idle speed to high or engine over-revved
2221 Vacuum Control - No vacuum to control unit. Check for leaks.
2222 Manifold Vacuum - Check vacuum line and wastegate for leaks.
Pressure sensor - Sensor defective
2223 Altitude Sensor - Check sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2224 Turbo/Manifold pressure - Check turbo control wiring, check for over boost, air leak,
defective wastegate valve, vacuum leak or defective pressure sensor.
2231 Idle-speed stabilizer adjustment limits exceeded; too-fast idle. Adjust throttle for full
closing, check for vacuum leak, check ignition timing.
Or
Air Mass Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2232 Air mass/flow sensor - No signal. Check wiring for break or short.
2233 Air mass/flow sensor reference voltage open or short circuit
2234 ECM Supply voltage low.
2242 CO-potentiometer voltage low
2312 Coolant temperature sensor - Check wiring, check resistance.
2314 Transmission to Engine control module circuit. - Check wires for breaks or shorts.
2322 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2323 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks.
2324 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts to B+ or ground or
check for air leak.
2331 Oxygen Sensor Control - Out of range. - Check ignition, air intake for leaks and injectors.
2332 Oxygen Sensor - Bank 2 - Check wiring for breaks or shorts.
2341 Oxygen sensor (O2) at control limit; check CO, lambda-sensor wire, lambda-sensor
control, start valve, evaporative system and check for vacuum leaks.
2342 Oxygen Sensor Control - no signal - Check wiring, sensor.
2343 Rich limit; the pressure regulator has exceeded +10 mA for more than 5 minutes,
closed-loop; check for vacuum leaks.
2344 Lean limit; the pressure actuator has exceeded -5mA for more than 5 minutes, closed
loop; check idle.
2411 EGR System Malfunction
2412 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts
2413 Mixture Control - Running rich
Fuel pressure too low
3424 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure - Check lamp and wiring.
4311 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay - Check relay and wiring.
4312 EGR Frequency Valve
4313 Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve - Check valve and wiring.
4331 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 2
4332 Ignition Circuit Final Stage - Check for break or short to ground or B+ or bad ECM.
4343 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 1
4411 Fuel Injector Cylinder 1 or 1 & 5
4412 Fuel Injector Cylinder 2 or 2 & 7
4413 Fuel Injector Cylinder 3 or 3 & 6
4414 Fuel Injector Cylinder 4 or 4 & 8
4421 Fuel Injector Cylinder 5
4422 Fuel Injector Cylinder 6
4423 Fuel Injector Cylinder 7
4424 Fuel Injector Cylinder 8
4431 Idle Air Control Valve / Idle Stabilizer - Check valve and wiring.
4433 Fuel Pump Relay
4442 Wastegate - Defective frequency valve or wiring.
Boost pressure circuit - Check for short.
4443 EVAP Canister purge valve.
4444 No fault in system.

Oct 17, 2008 | 1995 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

1997 Plymouth Breeze


Most probably ur crank position sensor or the pick-up coil is defective (or nearly). What that does is the computer knows where the No.1 cylinder is so that he knows when to send the spark to the correct spark plug. Now ur computer doesn't seem to know where the No.1 cylinder is, so he fires at random. Eventually the spark lands at the right place at the right time, hence ur engine is long to start.
That is my best guess.

Sep 04, 2008 | 1997 Plymouth Breeze

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